Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2015 i Good Food

A short ingredients list, straightforward prep – and no need to give all your pans an outing. That’s probably how most of us cook on weeknights, when we don’t need spectacular, but we do want satisfying. That’s why all our Everyday recipes come with the promise that they’re easy to shop for (everything available from an average-sized supermarket), effortless – and good value too. Turn to p62 to discover your new midweek favourites. Baking, of course, can be as simple or as showy as you want it to be, and this issue offers the lot. Keep it easy with a no-knead loaf (p14), or unleash your baking diva and tackle the cruffin (p23)… we’d love to see your photos. Enjoy all your cooking this month.…

No-knead beginner’s loaf by Miriam Nice , Assistant food editor This is an Italian-inspired bread to dip in balsamic vinegar, virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of sea salt. Traditionally this bread is long and slow to make, but I have adapted it to fit into my working day. It’s also no-knead, and you don’t even need a tin! MAKES 1 loaf (cuts into 10-12 slices) PREP 10 mins plus cooling and at least 9 hrs rising COOK 1 hr 1/4 tsp fast-action dried yeast 500g/1lb 2oz strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting 3-4 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked 2 tsp sea salt 2 tbsp olive oil 1 Pour 500ml warm water into a large bowl and sprinkle over the yeast. Stir to distribute the yeast, then add the…

Tins & gadgets 1 Let the tin do the talking Even if you’re a beginner baker, you can create a showstopper by using a decorative tin. Bundt tins are a must-have piece of kit – almost as coveted as the doughnut-shaped cakes that come out of them. Even better, cakes baked in a bundt tin need less cooking time, so the mixture is less likely to dry out. Nordic Ware is the go-to American brand for sturdy, non-stick bundt tins with delicate details. Selfridges and Divertimenti stock a good range, and I’ve had luck in the past at TK Maxx, picking up large bundt tins, and other bakeware, for about £5 each. Spherical cakes, topsy-turvy cake, cakes with hidden middles (more on those later) and even 3D dinosaurs put complex…

Radish, lentil & mint salad I’ve combined sweet, sour and nutty ingredients to enhance the different varieties of beautiful radishes in this salad. It’s really important to use a sharp, punchy Sherry vinegar or cider vinegar, as the acidity will cut through the sweet onions and earthy lentils and bring the dish to life. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins COOK 15 mins 50g/2oz walnut pieces 3 tbsp olive oil 1 red onion, sliced 1 tsp black treacle 2 tbsp Sherry vinegar small pack mint, leaves picked and half chopped 400g can green lentils, drained and rinsed 1/2 cucumber, chopped 300g/11oz radishes, some left whole, others sliced and chopped (try to use a mixture of varieties, such as mooli and red meat radishes – see below) 1 Toast the walnut pieces…

When chef Adam Smith (right) worked in Australia and saw perfectly edible food being sent for waste, then fed to pigs, he became concerned about the way the food system worked. Back home in Leeds, he set up the Real Junk Food Project (therealjunkfoodproject.co.uk) in 2013. His scheme involved running a café offering meals made from waste food diverted away from becoming landfill. Customers pay what they feel – either in cash, or time and skills. Volunteers gather unwanted food from shops, food banks, supermarkets, cafés and restaurants. Then volunteer chefs create stews, casseroles, soups and desserts, changing the menu daily. Adam, 29, says that in the café’s first year, 10,000 people were served hot meals, raising more than £30,000 in donations. The café’s success has inspired another 47 ‘pay…

Meet the family Vicky Curtis, husband Lees, and daughters Imogen, 12, and Olivia, eight, live in Compstall, near Stockport, with their two dogs, two ponies, three sheep, eight hens, one cockerel, five ducks and some fish! Vicky, who cooks all the family meals and looks after the animals, says: ‘Our home is a bit of a madhouse – we’re always busy with homework, clubs, housework and tending to the animals. The girls come home from school starving and want dinner straight away, whereas Lees might finish late, so we won’t eat until later in the evening. ‘The animals need tending to at teatime, so I prefer to prep food before the afternoon school run. We have an Aga, so I’ll often pop something in to slow-cook all day and we’ll…

This takes lemon meringue to another level! The caramelised sugar syrup gives the sponge a deeper flavour, while the Italian meringue, which covers the cake, brings to mind a delicious toasted marshmallow. It’s also a lighter alternative to a traditional buttercream coating. I’d recommend making the lemon curd the day before you bake the cake and popping it in the fridge overnight to set. You can also make the sponges the day before, then just wrap them in cling film when cool. Lemon meringue cake SERVES 16 PREP 2 hrs COOK 1 hr FOR THE LEMON CURD 75g/2 1 /2oz unsalted butter, softened 225g/8oz caster sugar zest 3 lemons 100ml/3 1 /2fl oz lemon juice, sieved to remove any seeds and pith 3 large eggs 1…

BUILDING A CAREER IN BAKING Builder Richard Burr, 39, captured the nation’s imagination during the BBC’s Great British Bake Off with his enthusiasm and ever-present pencil behind his ear. He was awarded star baker for a record-breaking five consecutive weeks, and got through to the final. He still loves to bake and is working on his first cookbook How did you come to enter the show? My wife, Sarah, kept saying that I should apply. Then on New Year’s Eve 2013, we saw that year’s winner, Frances Quinn, in the audience at Jools Holland’s Hootenanny. Sarah shook the entry form at me and said, ‘That could be you next year!’ Amazingly, I got on the show. Are you still in touch with the other finalists? Totally; we’re all in frequent…

Cheese dominated the early years of the Awards, which launched in 2000. Neal’s Yard Dairy was the first winner of the Best Local Food Retailer category and, in the Best Food Producer category, Pam and Nick Rodway from Moray, in Scotland, were early recipients. They caught the judges’ attention as they were making Scottish Dunlop cheese from unpasteurised whole milk, developed from a 400-year-old recipe, as part of a desire to bring back a forgotten flavour. Cheese expert Juliet Harbutt explains: ‘The early years of the BBC awards captured the surge in new producers. In the mid-1990s, there were fewer than 100 cheesemakers – by the year 2000 that had increased to 700.’ Cheeses now regarded as modern British classics, such as Cornish Yarg, Stinking Bishop and Lincolnshire Poacher, became…

These cotton mattress toppers are filled with white duck feather, plus an added 10 per cent white duck down, for extra softness and comfort – just the thing for a restful and cosy night’s sleep. The breathable cotton case has internal pockets to keep the filling in place – it won’t migrate to the bottom. The toppers are 5cm deep and are securely held in place with elasticated straps on each corner, so they’ll stay put all night. Available in single, double, king or super king sizes. Exclusive offer for BBC Good Food readers – FREE p&p* How to order your bedding Please send a cheque payable to JEM Marketing with GF/0189 written on the back, stating item(s) required, to: Good Food Reader Offer, JEM House,…

Pistachio & lemon gateau St Honoré SERVES 6-8 PREP 50 mins plus chilling COOK 1 hr 20 mins FOR THE PISTACHIO CREME PATISSIERE 250ml whole milk 1 large egg, plus 2 large egg yolks 100g caster sugar 25g cornflour 50g pistachio paste (see recipe below) 1 tsp vanilla bean paste FOR THE LEMON CREAM 300ml pot double cream zest 2 lemons 2 tbsp caster sugar FOR THE PASTRY BASE 320g ready-rolled puff pastry sheet FOR THE CHOUX PASTRY 40g plain flour 40g strong white bread flour 60g unsalted butter, cut into cubes, plus extra for greasing 1 tsp caster sugar 2-3 large eggs, beaten FOR THE CARAMEL 250g caster sugar 1 tbsp shelled pistachio nuts, finely chopped, to serve PER SERVING (8) energy 746 kcals • fat 44g • saturates…

As breadmaking surges in popularity, different types of yeast are appearing on supermarket shelves. Look past the fancy names, however, and there are essentially three main types, each with their advantages. So whether you swear by your breadmaker or you enjoy pummelling your dough by hand, here’s the low-down: ON TEST Bread machines We tested 12 in the Good Food kitchen, baking a plain white loaf in each. These three stood out from the crowd. GOOD VALUE Kenwood Rapid Bake Breadmaker, £89.50, johnlewis.com The loaf from this machine rose noticeably better than others and was very evenly baked. The machine itself is simple to use, and has helpful timer settings to keep bread warm or be ready at a precise time. We like…

All the recipes in Good Food magazine are tested thoroughly before publication, so they’ll work first time for you at home. Most are developed in our Test Kitchen by our cookery team, with additional recipes from food writers, TV chefs or cookery books. However, no matter who writes the original recipe, each one is tested rigorously before being included in the magazine. Your time and money are precious, so we want to guarantee you a great result every time. Developing and testing Good Food recipes • We aim to make recipes practical, keeping ingredients lists to a minimum and avoiding lengthy preparation. • We help you to avoid waste by using full packs, cans and jars where possible. When it’s not possible, we try to include…

Each month, BBC Good Food readers are the first to cook some of our brand-new recipes before they appear in the magazine. We send them the recipes and pay for the ingredients; they test the dishes at home and give us their verdicts. Read their comments on our recipe pages. Jordan Sharpe, from Gloucester, has 150 cookbooks – and counting! Her top tip is to roll out pastry between two sheets of cling film so it doesn’t stick and is easy to pick up. Ash Ward, from Nottingham, uses seasonal ingredients to cook foods from a variety of countries. Good Food’s Nutty chicken curry is the recipe that never lets him down. Laura Curry, from London, makes one-pots for big groups of friends, but will try out a new recipe…

1 How warm is ‘warm water’? Yeast is activated or brought back to life at 37C/100F (just above blood temperature). For most breads (except sourdoughs), which require long, cool fermentation, the water needs to be at least this temperature to get the yeast going. If you don’t have a thermometer, the water should feel just warm, not hot, to the touch – if the temperature is too high, it will kill the yeast. For more about yeast, turn to page 137. 2 Make kneading a pleasure Most breads require kneading (the process of stretching the dough) to develop the gluten and evenly distribute the ingredients. An easy way is to hold the dough with one hand and stretch it out over the work surface with the other, then bring it…

Wild garlic and nettles are the two leaves I would bet most of us could confidently identify. Focus on these when you’re out foraging and you’ll be rewarded with spring greens that are completely safe to eat. Wild garlic, also known as ransoms, garlic chives, garlic leaves, or ramps by our American cousins, grows in large colonies in open woodland and shady hedgerows across Britain. Once you’ve found your patch, they’re guaranteed to return every year. It’s tempting to treat wild garlic like spinach, but I prefer to think of it like chives or spring onions, as once cooked, it is less garlicky than its scent would lead you to believe. Wild garlic is best when it’s young (March-April) and before it flowers. Once it blossoms, the flowers are also…

As April showers give way to summer sunshine, make sure you have the 11th – 14th June in your diary, and look forward to a warm welcome from the BBC Good Food Show Summer. You’ll be greeted by unrivalled entertainment from world-class chefs in the Supertheatre, as they create seasonal dishes dishes live on stage. For a second helping of your favourite chef as well as other celebrities and experts throughout each day, head to the Interview Stage sponsored by Lakeland, NEW for the 2015 Show – you may even get to pose a question to your food heroes yourself. Welcome Michel Roux Jr. Michel has long been a friend of the BBC Good Food Show London, and now for the very first time, he’s appearing at the summer show…

Greek-style roast fish SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins 5 small potatoes (about 400g/14oz), scrubbed and cut into wedges 1 onion, halved and sliced 2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 1/2 tsp dried oregano or 1 /2 tbsp chopped fresh oregano 2 tbsp olive oil 1/2 lemon, cut into wedges 2 large tomatoes, cut into wedges 2 fresh skinless pollock fillets (about 200g/7oz) small handful parsley, roughly chopped 1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Tip the potatoes, onion, garlic, oregano and olive oil into a roasting tin, season, then mix together with your hands to coat everything in the oil. Roast for 15 mins, turn everything over and bake for 15 mins more. 2 Add the lemon and tomatoes, and roast for 10 mins, then top…

SPRING MENU Serves 6 Classic potted shrimps Roast leg of lamb with basil & mint pesto Crispy layered thyme potatoes Warm spring vegetables Banoffee cheesecake Classic potted shrimps This all-time favourite is best made at least the day before and left in the fridge overnight. Traditionally it is presented in individual ramekins, but for a modern twist, you could serve it in a large round dish so everyone can help themselves. SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins plus overnight chilling 100g/4oz unsalted butter 2 pinches of cayenne pepper a generous grating of nutmeg 350g/12oz cooked and peeled North Atlantic prawns or shrimps 1 ciabatta loaf 1 tbsp olive oil 1 lemon, cut into wedges, to serve 1 The day before, melt the butter in a small saucepan over…

Two-night break from just £55pp Treat yourself to a relaxing short break at one of these excellent Hallmark and Menzies hotels in top locations throughout the UK. From the seaside resort of Bournemouth to the historic city of Cambridge, these unique hotels offer the perfect accommodation for a memorable break. And with dinner included on your first night and a free afternoon tea, you won’t want to miss out on this fantastic offer! Price includes: • Two nights’ bed-and-breakfast accommodation in a three-or four-star hotel• Dinner on the first night of your stay• Free afternoon tea* Exclusive BBC Good Food magazine offer Receive a FREE afternoon tea (when you book before 20 April 2015)* Terms and conditions *Free afternoon tea available for bookings before 20 April 2015 and April/May/June…

Buckwheat GLUTEN FREE Don’t let the name deceive you – buckwheat is entirely wheat-free and gluten- free, and comes from a plant in the rhubarb family, historically grown in areas too hostile to sustain other cereals. The greyish flour is easily substituted for plain flour but has a nutty, slightly sour/bitter flavour – so I prefer to mix it half-and-half with another white or gluten-free flour, or ground almonds. Buckwheat also goes well with spices, brown sugar or coffee. It is brilliant in blinis and drop scones, and adds interest to pasta and pizza dough. Spelt Called the ‘marching grain’ by the Romans for its energy-giving protein content, spelt was somewhat forgotten as farming techniques changed and wheat became easier to grow. It’s back in fashion now as a full-flavour…

Book for a great day out Summer isn’t far away, so make sure you have 11–14 June in your diary now for the BBC Good Food Show Summer at the NEC Birmingham. This year, you‘ll see world- class chefs including Michel Roux Jr, right – appearing for the first time – plus Tom Kerridge and Mary Berry in the Supertheatre. Discover more about your favourite celebrity chefs, cooks and experts as they tackle your questions on the new Interview Stage. For details and to book, turn to page 57 or visit bbcgoodfoodshowsummer.com. Easter fun Want to keep your children entertained over the Easter break? You’ll find lots of fun projects at bbcgoodfood.com. Our brand-new, printable Easter egg hunt will have them bounding off in search of homemade treats – plus…

Bread baking came into my life – or my home – at the same time as the baking boom, but not necessarily because of it. In September 2010, we started a bakery in our own London kitchen, chiefly because I was fed up with dishing out pocket money to my children, then aged 10 and 13, without them earning it. It seemed like a natural solution: baking bread is mainly labour – material costs are few. We made the dough on Friday night and shaped it, then sold the freshly baked bread out of the front door. With their ‘hard-earned’ cash in their pockets, my children could enjoy the rest of their weekend. The enterprise benefited everyone; family relations improved, and my children seemed to take pride in their entrepreneurship.…

For the past two years, I have been trying to solve a mystery that has puzzled me for ages. How come factory-made food tastes so unlike the homemade equivalent? Why, for instance, are the blueberry muffins on sale in supermarkets and chain coffee shops so dense and sticky compared to the fresh, fluffy (and in my opinion, superior) muffins I make at home? If I can bake a coffee and walnut cake using only butter, sugar, eggs, flour, nuts, coffee granules and cream, why does the supermarket-bought equivalent contain ingredients such as glucose syrup, rice starch, acidity regulator, palm oil, glycerine, flavouring, preservative and water? Now, after researching my new book, Swallow This , an investigation of the modern processed food industry, I understand why. We home cooks use tried-and-tested…

Take a pocket guidebook, and check it before picking anything. A good one is Food for Free by Richard Mabey (£4.99, Collins). Make sure that it is legal to forage in a public area or that you have the landowner’s permission. Use all your senses to identify the plants you are looking for; it may look similar to wild garlic but if it doesn’t smell of garlic – don’t eat it! Never pick leaves next to busy roads or lanes, or low down, where dogs are regularly walked. If something isn’t in abundance, rather than picking it, I take a photo to keep my foraging credentials intact. Nature’s storecupboard…

My favourite varieties Best for sauces • San Marzano Heritage Neapolitan variety, bred to produce rich, silky sauces. • Corazon Sweet and tangy in equal measure. One of the best candidates for simmering down into soups, sauces and stews, this tomato’s drier flesh and lower acid content guarantee silky smoothness without biting sourness. Cherry tomatoes • Sungold Has a sky-high sugar content and bright, fruity taste – perfect for salads and bruschetta. Early cropper. • Gardener’s Delight AGM Universally popular, this produces loads of high-quality, flavoursome fruit on unfussy plants. • Green Envy A real winner of a cherry variety, producing grape-sized fruits with a depth charge of tanginess and a curious lingering sweetness that stays with you for several minutes after eating it. Perhaps my favourite for its sheer…

Linguine with garlic butter prawns SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins 200g/7oz linguine 2-3 fat garlic cloves, finely chopped 50g/2oz butter 175g pack raw shelled king prawns, de-veined and split in half lengthways finely grated zest 1 lemon, then cut the lemon into wedges small pack parsley, chopped 1 Boil the pasta following pack instructions. Meanwhile, very gently cook the garlic in the butter in a medium pan until softened. Add the prawns and cook until they just turn from grey to pink. It is important not to overcook them or they will be tough. Remove from the heat and stir in the zest and seasoning. 2 Drain the pasta and toss into the pan with the prawn mixture and parsley until well mixed. Divide between two bowls…

Veggie spiral pie with spiced tomato sauce & chopped salad This filo pie is based on a Moroccan dish called M’hanncha – meaning ‘snake’ because of its coils. Traditionally, it would be filled with a frangipane spiked with rosewater and served as dessert. My recipe, packed with rice, feta and spinach, makes a great lunch dish. Filo does have a tendency to crack when rolled up, so make sure you keep it well covered when you’re not working with it, and set aside a few sheets to patch up any cracks. As I explain in my filo know-how on page 132, I use a paintbrush to butter the sheets. SERVES 8-10 PREP 50 mins plus chilling COOK 1 hr 30 mins 1 tbsp each cumin and coriander seeds 3 tbsp…

One of the French phrases that is widely used in professional kitchens is ‘mise en place’, which means being prepared or, literally, putting everything in its place. About half an hour before every lunch and dinner service, chefs will bark at each other: ‘En place?’, meaning ‘Are you ready?’ This explains why you can be served a slow-cooked meat dish just 30 minutes after you ordered it, and a stunning dessert is ready half an hour after your main course. The cooking was done long before you arrived at the restaurant. This beautiful chocolate tart is a great example of a make-ahead dessert that takes the stress out of entertaining. Every element of this tart is prepared ahead, as it would be in the pastry section of my restaurant. So…

This month • Mary Berry’s Absolute Favourites • Saturday Kitchen Live • 100 Years of the WI Mary Berry’s Absolute Favourites Two of Mary’s much-loved dishes, ideal for a family buffet this spring. Her new series starts soon on BBC Two Apricot frangipane tart An apricot and frangipane filling in a crisp pastry case makes a smart, delicate tart. When filling the pastry case, it’s best to add the apricots at the last moment, so that the juices don’t make the base wet. If time is short, you could use a 500g pack of shop-bought shortcrust pastry. You will need a round, 28cm loose-bottomed fluted flan tin. SERVES 8-10 PREP 1 hr 20 mins COOK 50 mins FOR THE PASTRY 175g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 75g cold butter, cubed 25g golden…

Bolognese with spiralized sweet potato SERVES 4-6 PREP 40 mins COOK 45 mins-1 hr 2 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle for frying 2 shallots or 1 onion, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce 500g/1lb 2oz lean minced beef 140g/5oz button mushrooms, diced 2 tbsp tomato purée 150ml/ 1/4pt white wine small pack basil, leaves only 400ml/14fl oz passata 4 large sweet potatoes Parmesan, grated, to serve (optional) 1 Heat a large non-stick saucepan or flameproof casserole dish over a high heat. Add the 2 tbsp oil together with the shallots or onion. Fry gently until soft, about 5 mins, then remove the pan from the heat. Add the garlic and Worcestershire sauce. Stir to coat the shallots, then add the beef and mix well. Return…

Dark and sticky, a bit of gingerbread goes brilliantly with a cup of tea. But that indulgence comes at a cost, as it’s high in fat, sugar and calories. Many classic recipes are crammed with generous amounts of butter, sugar, golden syrup and treacle to achieve that rich, sticky texture. I wanted to cut back on sugar and fat, especially saturated fat, yet still retain the texture and taste we love so much. I’ve used rapeseed oil successfully in cakes before, so I decided to try it here as a butter replacement, to bring down the saturated fat. As I also wanted to reduce the sugar, I included some soaked, puréed dates, along with buttermilk. Gingerbread’s dark, sticky texture comes mainly from black treacle and syrup. I still used some…

FRESH IS BEST Angela Nilsen reckons she must have baked scores of bread and yeast-based recipes during the 20 years she’s been working for BBC Good Food, so we knew she was just the person to compile our definitive guide to yeast (p137). Angela spent a fortnight in her kitchen experimenting with all the different types on offer, and reacquainted herself with fresh yeast, which she got from her local baker. ‘I’d got out of the habit of using fresh because packet yeast is so popular and convenient,’ she says. ‘But I can only describe the experience as joyous!’ If you haven’t baked with fresh yeast, Angela urges you to try it next time you’re making bread. ‘Just the fresh smell of it lured me in, and when I discovered…

STAR LETTER I read Joanna Blythman’s article (Feb) about the way we buy food with interest as I also recently changed the way I shop. I joined a Food Assembly (thefoodassembly.com/en) – an idea that originated in France, where they are hugely popular. After joining a local Assembly (there are 20 in the UK), you can see all the producers and all the produce available that week on the website. The pre-sale lasts for one week, during which you can add anything to your basket. The sale ends the night before collection date and everything is prepaid online, so producers know exactly how much to bring and there’s no fiddling around with cash on the day. You get to choose fantastic seasonal produce and support local business; the farmers and…

Easter egg rocky road MAKES 8-10 bars PREP 25 mins plus cooling and 1 hr chilling COOK 5 mins 225g/8oz dark chocolate, broken into pieces 100g/4oz unsalted butter, cubed 2 tbsp cocoa powder 2 tbsp golden syrup 100g/4oz rich tea biscuits 50g/2oz mini marshmallows 50g/2oz dried cranberries 200g/7oz chocolate mini eggs 1 Line a 20 x 30cm traybake tin with 2 sheets of cling film (in a criss-cross pattern). Put the chocolate and butter in a large bowl set over a saucepan of gently simmering water, and melt until smooth and glossy. 2 Remove from the heat and add the cocoa powder and golden syrup. Mix together until fully combined and leave to cool at room temperature for about 15 mins. 3 Put the biscuits in a freezer bag and…