Innholdsfortegnelse for Your Pruning Year i BBC Gardeners' World

Pruning can often seem daunting, with the thought of cutting into a living plant feeling like a scary thing to tackle. But there’s nothing to fear and this guide will equip you with all the know-how you need to make the right cuts for a thriving garden. From how to prune for beautiful blooms and bumper harvests, to making sure you’ve got the right kit for the job, you’ll find everything you need on these pages to prune with confidence. And with that confidence will come healthy plants and a garden to be proud of.…

These plants should be pruned annually, otherwise they can become leggy and liable to splitting under the weight of new growth. In colder parts of the UK, or in harsh winters, the stems may have been killed right down to ground level, but will re-sprout in spring. 1 Prune back thicker stems to just above a ‘node’, or pair of buds, low down on the stem. This allows stems that have survived the winter to heal, and prevents dieback down into the plant’s crown. 2 Remove all the thinnest, weakest shoots, as most are likely to have been killed over winter. Cut back to the main stems, so all the plant’s energy is channelled into strong buds and shoots. 3 Look for any stems that have split or been damaged…

1 Prune out three or four of the oldest, thickest stems at the base, to encourage new ones to form. When done annually, this creates a succession of flowering stems for future years. 2 Thin out the younger stems too, especially any that are weak, overcrowded or crossing. Leave up to eight strong, evenly spaced young stems to carry next spring’s flowers. 3 Prune back any remaining tall, older stems by about a third, cutting just above a strong sideshoot. This will reduce the weight of foliage and stop branches flopping onto nearby plants. 4 Finally, take out a few stems from the middle to ensure good air circulation through the shrub. Then stand back and check that the overall shape is well balanced and attractive. Others to prune like…

Tidy up bedding Snip off the faded blooms of bedding plants to keep the flowers coming, removing the whole stem at the base. Check these plants regularly for signs of rot or disease, especially in humid weather, and cut off any affected growth. Remove any dead leaves before they start to decay. Shorten trailing stems on climbers Control the vigour of climbers such as honeysuckle, jasmine and wisteria by pruning the trailing stems in July. Leave just three or four leaves on the current year’s shoots. This will encourage the plant to put its energy into producing flowers rather than more leafy growth. Remove spent flower spikes With plants that produce flower spikes, such as lupins, foxgloves, red-hot pokers and delphiniums, remove the whole spike when it’s spent, down to…

Prevent ‘wind rock’ Tall shrubs in exposed sites can be damaged by wind rock, when strong winds buffet the plant around, loosening its roots. To avoid this, prune susceptible shrubs back by up to a third of their height. Make your cuts just above a bud, at a downward-sloping angle. Remove dead wood Check woody plants for dead or damaged branches that could break in winter weather. Look for stems that have died back, are rubbing against another branch or have snapped. Prune these back to a healthy bud or sideshoot, or to the point where they sprout from a larger stem. Cut down old flower stems Removing spent flower stems is the easiest type of pruning. As these are usually hollow, cut at an angle, so that water doesn’t…

1 First remove any dead, dying or diseased shoots. Then thin out any overcrowded branches to leave fewer, healthy shoots. Cut back to a main branch or a healthy, outward-facing bud. 2 Prune out branches and shoots that are growing into the centre of the tree. This will improve air circulation through the canopy, which helps to reduce pests and diseases. 3 On well-established trees, thin out old, weak or overcrowded fruiting spurs, cutting flush with the main branch. Fruiting spurs are short knobbly shoots that carry plump buds. 4 Trim back young sideshoots by about half, cutting just above a bud pointing out from the centre. This will encourage the growth of new shoots that will carry fruiting spurs. Others to prune like this ✔ Quinces (Cydonia) – form…

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Winter pruning Pruning in February Pruning in winter, when stems are dark brown and rigid, will stimulate strong, vigorous growth from the tip, as well as weaker growth from the buds lower down the stem. Results in July After pruning, the top-most bud takes over as the main shoot (or leader) and grows with the most vigour. The further away from the tip, the weaker the shoot. Lower shoots only develop once the tip is growing strongly. Summer pruning Pruning in July Pruning in summer results in far less vigorous regrowth than winter pruning, so is a good way to control the size of a plant. It will also encourage the development of flowering shoots and buds. Results in September The top-most bud is sprouting more slowly than spring growth,…

Keep tools clean Carefully clean all pruning tools regularly to avoid a build-up of debris and rust. If a blade does become rusty, use a wire brush to remove it all, then wipe the blade with a rag and general-purpose oil. To clean off dirt and debris, use warm water and soap. If blades are sticky with sap, try a light alcohol solution, and if tools have been used on diseased plants, always clean them with a light solution of bleach and water. Sharpen up Use a fine metal file or sharpening stone to keep the blades of secateurs and other pruning tools sharp and cutting cleanly. Hold the file at a 15 degree angle to the blade. Avoid sharpening at too steep an angle, as this could damage the…

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Once your shrub is a couple of years old, start pruning it annually to create a permanent, low framework, from which vibrant shoots will sprout each year. After the winter display, prune these back hard to stimulate a new flush of colourful shoots to enjoy the following winter. 1 Make your cuts carefully, positioning the secateurs just above a pair of buds and cutting at a downward slant. New stems will sprout from the buds, so it is important not to damage them. 2 Bend long flexible stems out of the way, if necessary, to ensure you have room to cut them cleanly in the right place. Misplaced or ragged cuts are more susceptible to disease. 3 Work around the shrub, reducing last year’s stems (usually brighter in colour) to…

It’s best to prune as soon as the last blooms begin to fade, so that more of the plant’s energy is channelled into new growth. Before you start, stand back and assess the shrub to work out which are the oldest, thickest branches, as these need to be removed. 1 Reduce the longest woody stems by about half, cutting just above a new shoot. This will thin out the shrub, so you can get 2 Use loppers to remove the oldest, thickest branches, cutting as close to the base as possible. If the stems are too thick for loppers, use a pruning saw instead so you make a clean cut. 3 Thin out vigorous new shoots using secateurs. Remove any that are overcrowded or facing inwards to open up the…

Spring-flowering climbers Pruning climbers such as wisteria, honeysuckle and jasmine in summer will keep their vigorous growth under control. Wisteria should be cut back twice a year to encourage a good display of flowers (see p41). Hedges Most hedges can be pruned between June and September. Deciduous hedges such as hawthorn and hazel can be trimmed twice – in spring, just after they’ve put on new growth, then in late summer, after the second flush of growth (see p44). Stone fruit trees Pruning stone fruits, such as plums and cherries, must be done around midsummer to avoid infection by the fungal disease silver leaf. They don’t need as much pruning as apples and pears, but do benefit from regular thinning out, to keep them fruiting well. Summer-flowering evergreens Most evergreen…

You need sharp shears or a hedgetrimmer, and should usually remove 10-15cm of growth. The soft clippings are rich in nitrogen, so decompose well on a compost heap. 1 Put a guide line in place to ensure you get a level, even cut. Push several tall canes down through the front of the hedge and into the ground. Position them at regular intervals along the hedge. 2 Tie twine to the end cane at the height you want to cut, then unravel it along the hedge. Tie it to each cane, at the same height. Use a spirit level to check the string is level throughout. 3 Trim the top first, using the twine guide. Sharp shears will cut through young stems, but may struggle with large clumps. Hold the…

Autumn-fruiting raspberries, by contrast, fruit on the current year’s stems, and are best pruned in late winter. 1 First identify the old canes – look for stems that have fruited and turned woody grey-brown. Remove them all, cutting right down at the base. Take care not to damage the new green canes. 2 Go through the remaining new canes and remove any that are thinner than a pencil or are a long way from the supports. Leave up to eight strong stems per plant to provide next year’s crop. 3 Tie all the new canes to the horizontal wire supports, using soft twine. Space them evenly along the row, and don’t tie too tightly around the stem, as it needs some room to expand. 4 You should end up with…

To further restrict its vigorous growth and encourage flowering, wisteria should be pruned a second time, during July every year (see p41).. 1 Check over the plant, tying in any long shoots that you want to keep to extend the main framework. Also replace any existing ties that are too tight and are cutting into the stems. 2 Leave the short, stubby side branches with clusters of buds, as these are the flowering ‘spurs’. Only prune them if they are cracked or damaged. 3 Cut the longer stems that just carry long, pointed buds, as these are leaf buds. In comparison, the flower buds are shorter and fatter. 4 Prune all long sideshoots to just above the second or third bud at the stem base. Then in early July, reduce…

Modern shrub and English roses tend to be larger than bush roses (such as hybrid teas and floribundas), with thornier stems. They need only light pruning annually, once a good framework of branching stems has been created, from which they produce flowering shoots. The more shrub roses are cut back, the more leafy growth they’ll produce, at the expense of blooms. 1 Modern shrub and English roses can become tall and straggly, so cut out one or two of the oldest stems at the base each year, to encourage vigorous new replacement shoots from low down. 2 Prune back a third of the remaining thick stems to around half their height. Make your cuts just above a bud that faces out from the centre of the shrub. 3 Lightly prune…

Secateurs Bypass secateurs (pictured), with their scissor action, make a clean cut through stems up to finger thickness. Anvil secateurs, with a blade that slices onto a flat surface, can crush stems, so use only on woody growth (see also p112). Pruning saw These come in various sizes, for branches up to 50mm thick. Some have coarsely angled teeth so they cut on both push and pull strokes, but many cut only on the pull stroke. Use a larger bow saw for thicker branches. Long-reach pruners Like secateurs on a long pole, these are operated by pulling a rope or lever at the other end. They are useful for occasional pruning of trees and tall shrubs, cutting woody stems up to about 30mm in diameter. Loppers With long handles for…

Q Should I remove water shoots? A These upright shoots, which sprout from the trunk or branches of trees, have lots of leaves but don’t produce any fruit or flowers. They are often the result of previous heavy pruning. They can weaken other growth if left, so cut them off at the base. In future, don’t prune more than a quarter of the tree’s canopy in one year, as this can trigger the development of water shoots. Q My shrub has lots of thin, weak stems – what should I do? Weak stems should be pruned out regularly, otherwise you’ll end up with a plant that has lots of thin, spindly branches and uneven growth. To even it out, prune back the weak stems so they’re shorter than the strong…

Winter stems Shrubs grown for their richly coloured winter stems or vibrant leaves, such as dogwoods, willow and cotinus, should be cut back hard every year in early spring. This stimulates the production of new shoots, which produce the best foliage and stem colour. Spring-flowering shrubs Shrubs that flower on stems produced the previous year, such as forsythia and weigela, can be pruned straight after flowering. This will keep them from outgrowing their space and improve their flowering performance next spring. Summer-flowering shrubs Many summer-flowering shrubs, including buddleia and fuchsias, benefit from being cut back hard in spring. This rejuvenates the plant and encourages a burst of new growth that will carry plenty of flowers in the coming summer. Grasses Deciduous grasses, including many varieties of miscanthus and stipa, should…

Left unpruned, hydrangeas soon become a tangle of branches with fewer, smaller flowers held on the tips. But if you cut out a few of the oldest stems every year, you’ll keep the shrub in good shape, with vigorous young stems that carry lots of large blooms. 1 Use secateurs to remove three or four of the oldest, most branched stems, right down at the base. The older stems tend to produce smaller blooms than the younger shoots 2 Select the tallest two-to three-year-old stems and prune them back to a strong shoot or just above a pair of buds. This will help to prevent the plant becoming top heavy when in flower. 3 Remove all the thin twiggy shoots from the base of the shrub, so that all the…

Cut back long clematis shoots Winter-flowering clematis doesn’t need drastic pruning, but if your plant has spread beyond its bounds and needs to be restrained, simply prune back any shoots that have become too long. Snip the stems just above a pair of healthy buds. Tidy up lavender Mediterranean shrubs such as lavender are more likely to survive a harsh winter if their top growth is left in place to protect them. This should be cut off in spring to make way for new growth. Other similar shrubs to tackle in spring include rosemary and cistus. Trim perennials Spring is the time to cut back perennials that weren’t tidied up in autumn. Leaving old growth in place over winter helps to protect the crown of the plant and provides shelter…

The aim is to reduce this year’s leafy growth all over the tree. This will slow down the growth of the tree, yet allow it to form a framework of more fruiting stems. 1 Assess the tree’s shape before you start. Aim to remove excess growth from the centre, and here and there in the outer canopy, to improve air circulation, as this will deter pests and diseases. 2 Check over the tree for any damaged, diseased or dead branches. Cut these back to the point where they originate from healthy, living stems or branches. 3 Cut the strongest shoots sprouting from the tips of branches by half their length, to just above a leaf. Then shorten the sideshoots to three leaves above the base of this year’s growth. 4…

Herbaceous perennials Many plants that have played a star role in borders over the summer are looking untidy by late autumn. These include heleniums, delphiniums, phlox and asters. Cutting back dead stems and top growth helps to stop fungal diseases setting in. Cane fruit Raspberries, blackberries and tayberries fruit on canes (long stems), and these are best pruned annually to keep the plants productive. The old canes of summer-fruiting raspberries and blackberries should be cut down after harvesting, leaving the best young canes in place. Yew hedges Tough, hardy yew can tolerate later pruning than most other hedging plants. If you only want to trim it once a year, then do it in early autumn – its outline will stay crisp all winter. As yew has dense foliage, you can…

The aim is to remove the oldest, fruited stems and leave between five and seven of the younger, strongest stems to crop next year. By thinning out the stems and opening up the centre of the bush, you’ll also improve air circulation to keep your plants growing healthily. 1 Use loppers to remove some of the stems in the centre of the bush, cutting them down to the base or back to a main branch. This will help air to circulate through the plant, deterring disease. 2 Prune out the thickest, oldest stems that bore fruit this year. Cut to just above soil level or to where a new shoot has sprouted this year, leaving strong young stems to crop next year. 3 Look for any stems that are crossing…

Plants that bleed sap when pruned Woody, deciduous shrubs and trees that ooze sap when their stems are cut should be pruned before spring when the stems can bleed profusely and weaken the plant. Examples include figs, maples, grapevines and birches. Late-flowering clematis Most spring- and winter-flowering clematis simply need a tidy-up after flowering. However, those that bloom after June should be cut down to ground level every February, to keep them compact and promote flowering. Fruit trees Winter pruning of fruit trees such as pears and apples helps to control their size and shape. It also encourages a good crop by channelling the tree’s energy into the flower buds. Hard pruning will promote strong new growth in spring. Bush roses Bush roses – including hybrid teas and floribundas –…

1 Untangle the mass of last year’s growth from its support, cutting through any strings and removing ties that have been used for training. Lay the top growth on the ground. 2 Roughly chop off the top growth, initially leaving the stems around 50cm long. Take care not to damage any developing buds or new shoots. Cut up the prunings for composting. 3 With the bulk of material out of the way, prune all stems to the second or third pair of buds above the ground (about 30cm high). Cut 3-5mm above the buds, using the tips of the secateurs. 4 New, vigorous shoots will sprout in late winter or early spring. Tie these to supports, spreading them out to avoid a tangled mass of stems and get the best…

Hard prune bush roses Bush roses, such as hybrid teas and floribundas (or cluster-flowered roses), flower freely on strong new growth made in the current growing season. This means they can be cut down hard every year to keep them compact and vigorous. Remove rotten fruits Fruits infected with brown rot fungus often don’t fall from the tree – instead the shrivelled fruits stay in place into winter. This fungus can also lead to blossom wilt. Prune out any stems with these rotten fruits, to reduce the risk of carrying the fungal disease over into future years. Keep viburnum under control Without leaves, large deciduous shrubs such as Viburnum opulus are easier to assess and thin out. By removing some of the oldest and most congested stems, you can keep…

A maturing shoot Pruning for growth Making a cut stimulates fresh shoots in various ways Side buds are spurred into growth when the stem beyond them is damaged or pruned out, especially in spring. After pruning, the top-most bud will grow strongest and take over as the new leader (see overleaf). Hard pruning of some shrubs and trees can stimulate vigorous new shoots, known as suckers, to sprout from old woody stems, the main trunk or the roots. These should be removed down at the base.…

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