Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2023 i BBC Gardeners' World

Coneflowers It’s not so very long ago that there were only half a dozen varieties of echinacea on offer and all were selections of the American prairie perennial Echinacea purpurea, of which ‘Magnus’ was a favourite. Then American plant breeders got to work crossing purple- and white-flowered E. purpurea with a rarely seen yellow-flowered species, E. paradoxa. The result was plants with the large, broad-petalled flowers of E. purpurea in a range of bright and colourful tones created by genes of the yellow coneflower. A flood of them appeared on the market – and most of them died in their first winter. The purple coneflower is a prairie plant with a deep tap root that reaches in search of moisture. The yellow coneflower is a plant of woodland edges, where…

HOT TOPIC A place for nature? I always love Tales from Titchmarsh as the final read of my GW magazine, but I think the July issue’s column about gardening for the love of it is my favourite. In a world gone mad it was fab to read a heartfelt opinion from Alan about not letting our gardens become natural havens but instead growing what we want, looking after wildlife, being organic, but growing what makes us feel good and what makes us want to be in our gardens. More common sense like this, please! Kay, Nottingham Usually Alan is spot-on with his Tales from Titchmarsh observations, and l chuckle my way through his narrative. However, l must disagree with some of the comments made in his July column about being…

“A lovely healthy plant which is thriving.” MAXICROP Plant Treatment For ONLY £1 we will treat your whole order with MAXICROP to give your plants: • Strong, healthy root system - More energy for growth • Greener, healthier leaves – Great nutrient availability • Reduced stress during transit • Better establishment and improved root growth Coronilla glauca ‘Citrina’ 1 x 9cm pot £19.99 £9.99 ONLY £6 EACH* * WHEN YOU BUY 2 FOR £12! Flowering from December to April Ideal for small gardens Contrasting blue-green foliage Strong sweet lemon fragrance Coronilla glauca ‘Citrina’ Coronilla ‘Citrina’ will light up the garden in winter with an abundance of lemon-yellow pea-like blooms that just keep coming. We’ve had reports of this easy to grow shrub flowering for 9 months or more, making it a hard-working…

Limonium gmelinii A tough and reliable sea lavender which produces sprays of lilac flowers over glossy rosettes of foliage. Height x spread 60cm x 45cm Echinacea pallida Coneflowers enjoy open and sunny positions and pallida is no exception, but has a sophisticated quality with pale, ribbon-like petals H x S 1.2m x 60cm Eryngium bourgatii A low-growing sea holly with steely-blue flowers which persist in their form as they gradually dry out on the stem. H x S 45cm x 30cm Verbena hastata Quite similar in habit to Verbena bonariensis but with a more branched flower and available in a range of blue and pink tones. H x S 1.2m x 50cm Nepeta grandiflora A tall and easy-to-grow catmint with no need for staking. Bees adore this plant and the…

One hassle in gardening that few people like to talk about is harvesting. I love picking crops, of course, but joy can turn to chore when everything ripens at once. Even the most enthusiastic pea lover will grow tired of podding a midsummer glut. This may sound like sacrilege but I feel it’s vital to consider the time needed to harvest and prepare crops, because it can often take longer than sowing and growing them. I have to be realistic about what I can fit around a full-time job, while not wasting anything. Which is why I’m on a mission to identify easy-pick edibles, useable straight from the plant with less hassle in terms of washing, podding and peeling. Herbs fit the bill perfectly, growing steadily through summer and allowing…

STEP BY STEP Propagate peace lilies Dividing peace lilies will keep these useful house plants thriving and increase your collection. If you have a peace lily that is quick to dry out and the roots look squashed in their pots, division will give the roots extra room to grow and save you from having to deal with a stressed plant. 1 EASE the plant out of its pot once you see roots growing from the bottom of the pot. Pull at the roots to open up the rootball. 2 PULL the plant into clumps. Your pot may have lots of small plants but if there is just one, divide it gently, with roots attached. 3 FILL new pots with peat-free potting compost and add one clump to each. Add more compost, firm in and…

Harvesting your crops There are potentially so many fruits and vegetables to harvest this month that it can be difficult to keep on top of it all. The key is to get into the habit of going out in the garden every morning or evening to inspect each of your edible plants and check them to see what’s ready for picking. Paying very close attention to your crops will help to make sure that you pick your produce when it is at its peak. For spring-planted onions and garlic, the leaves will let you know if the crop is ready. Once they start to turn yellow, the crop is ready to be lifted. Second-early and maincrop potatoes will also be ready to harvest this month, although if you want the…

Anne Swithinbank A keen fruit, vegetable and house-plant grower, Anne was formerly the glasshouse supervisor at RHS Garden Wisley. Ashley Edwards As a head gardener with charity Horatio’s Garden, Ashley enjoys sharing his passion for plants. Pippa Greenwood Pippa is one of the foremost experts on pests and diseases. She gardens using organic methods. Q What can go with summer fowers for a long display? Ulrika Kuoppa-Jones, Oxfordshire A ANNE SAYS I prefer to keep my dahlias separate, for a better chance of controlling damage to emerging growth by slugs and snails. You could lift the tubers just after the first autumn frosts and replant the spot with tulips in November. Store the dahlia tubers somewhere frost-free, pot up in spring and plant out at the end of May or…

I remember a time, only a few years ago, when I’d spend several hours on summer evenings watering my garden. I’d water countless containers, along with annuals and tender perennials in my borders, all reliant on water and moist soil to look good. I also watered my veg, of course, all my greenhouse plants and, I’m ashamed to say, occasionally my lawn. The garden I’d created was reliant on water, and a lot of it. The problem is, I garden in Essex, a notoriously dry region – Beth Chatto’s no-water gravel garden is only a short drive away and I’m close to RHS Garden Hyde Hall, which also has a beautiful dry garden. I should have looked around me 10 years ago when I started creating my garden and followed…

Ellen Miles is founder of social enterprise Dream Green and author of Get Guerrilla Gardening We desperately need more nature in urban neighbourhoods; as many as one in five* Brits live in nature-deprived areas. Yet councils often protest that creating and maintaining public greenery is prohibitively costly and time-consuming. Resident-led greening in otherwise lifeless corners of public spaces, also known as guerrilla gardening, is a no-brainer – providing local people with a meaningful nature connection, while easing the strain off councils’ limited resources to do so. “But what if they don’t know what they’re doing?” is a typical question. Well, what if they do? We need to give citizens credit for their knowledge and potential (and not act as though local authorities themselves never misstep!). Plus, it’s never been easier…

■ The sun rises in the east and sets in the west. This is pretty basic information, but you would be amazed how many gardeners I speak to who are unable to refer without hesitation to the points of the compass in their garden. Few of us have gardens that are organised on the axes of the compass but it is essential to plan the planting in harmony with the daily movement of the sun, regardless of other considerations. ■ Shade merely means direct sunlight is blocked in some way. The result is not darkness, but various levels and types of light. Plants with pale colours tend to look better in the weak, bright light of morning, so are best planted facing east. ■ Rich colours, such as purples, burgundies and…

I’m a three-season gardener, which means I only garden from March to November – it’s not possible for me to garden in winter as once I have a coat on I can’t really use my hands. So, eking out the garden interest for as long as possible is important, particularly from late summer into autumn, making the most of the final weeks I can be outside. I sow annuals in spring to boost my floral display for as long as possible, but it’s my pick of perennials that really holds the display for the final months of the gardening year. Staking, lifting and storing plants over winter is a challenge, so to make things easier I plant mainly strong-stemmed hardy perennials to suit my abilities, as they can be maintained…

The positioning of one plant in close proximity to another in order to ward off a specific pest can be surprisingly effective, probably because of the fact that it confuses ‘the enemy’. To repel whitefly I find that planting tagetes (French marigolds) or basil in the same compost or soil border in which I grow my tomatoes really does discourage the pest. Plant onions and carrots in alternate rows – the aroma of each crop can deter onion fly and carrot fly. Parsley is said to repel carrot fly, and tomatoes will discourage asparagus beetle. Likewise, sage is recommended for warding off carrot fly and cabbage caterpillars. There are many combinations that are suggested, but almost all rely on confusing the pest of a particular crop with the aroma of…

Taking semi-ripe cuttings of shrubs, hedging or climbers in late summer or early autumn is possibly the simplest form of propagation you can do. They are quick, easy and have a high success rate. They can also save you a fortune. Producing 30 hedging plants this way will cost pennies, but buying 30 established plants could set you back upwards of £200! Doing it now, while plants are in active growth, means the cuttings will be quick to produce new roots and shoots before autumn. I’ve grown thousands of new plants this way over the last 30 years and it couldn’t be more simple.…

Keep the humidity high and water loss low by placing a clear plastic bag over the pot of cuttings and sealing it with an elastic band. For grey-leaved cuttings, avoid rotting by using a clear plastic lid instead. Air the cuttings twice weekly. Place the pot in a bright spot, out of direct sunlight. Check the pot every few days and stand it in a tray of water once the compost begins to dry out. Keep moist, but not wet, and pot on in spring. For semi-ripe cuttings in autumn, place the pot in a heated propagator to ensure they root quickly. NEXT MONTH Nick shows you how to divide clump-forming plants to make new ones for free…

Tidy up summer growth on roses Snip the old flowers off the roses that have finished flowering now. Use secateurs or snips to cut back weak flower stems and tidy the shape of the plant by heading back old flower stems that have extended beyond the canopy. Cut these unruly stems back below the rest so that regrowth doesn’t disrupt the shape again. Rake up and collect all the debris in a trug. If diseases such as black spot are a concern, cut the spread by disposing of the plant material in your garden waste bin, rather than the compost heap. Don’t forget ◻ Sow hardy annuals such as calendula, cornflower and larkspur for attractive flowers next year◻ Trim off spent lavender stems, cutting into new growth to shorten the…

Divide clusters of houseleeks Propagate sempervivums, or houseleeks, by dividing clusters of rosettes. It’s an easy way to get a supply of new plants to put into mixed pots. Rosettes die back when they flower, so it’s important to divide them regularly. The younger rosettes will grow on and soon several will fill the pot. Sempervivums are ideal for pots or in poor, well-drained soils and rock gardens. They like plenty of sun and are very hardy provided they do not get too wet. There are many colours and forms, making it possible to create a stunning carpet of mixed colours and textures or a dramatic, sculptural display in containers. Flowering depends both on variety and the age of the rosette. After flowering, the dead plant can be quickly tidied…

Remove withered cucumbers and keep watering Continue to look out for withered ends on cucumbers. This will be blossom end rot, caused by lack of calcium, and is easily rectified. There is rarely a need to add more fertiliser, unless the plant is in a pot or growing bag. First, pick off the affected fruit. For perfect fruit, be strict about watering consistently, and make sure that there is a good flow of air in the greenhouse. This helps the plant take up enough water and for the nutrients to reach the extremities of the fruit. Check tomatoes for ripening Check tomatoes for ripeness once they’ve turned colour from green to red, yellow, orange or whatever the variety promises. Give them a gentle squeeze or pick one and taste it.…

For many teachers and students, August equals hazy summer holidays, but in gardening terms August is the month where the first signs of autumn begin to appear and it can be a month in which the garden starts to fade if left untouched. That doesn’t mean the plants have finished, though. Late summer flowers now begin to come into their own, and can be set to continue performing right through into autumn. Traditionally, August is the month in which the pruning of evergreen shrubs, hedges and topiary is carried out. This is because it’s a time of year that still allows for plenty of recovery before the much cooler months arrive. It is also a time for high summer pruning of apples, and other fruits that haven’t yet been tackled.…

I would really like a rockery. This would be partly for the alpine plants that I grow outside in alpine pans rather than among the stony clefts and nooks they belong in. I could have an alpine house. We had one at Berryfields, filled with little gems in pots, buried to their terracotta necks in sand and with ventilation on all sides to create the dry but cool environment they love. I could probably find the space and funds for a small one and give my existing alpines a much better life. However, alpines have never really entered the horticultural mainstream since the demise of the rockery as a common garden feature and I want the rockiness of a rockery, the great natural and architectural heft of slabs and chunks of…

Synthetic pesticides disappearing from shops Some of the most widely used synthetic pesticides are disappearing from garden centre shelves as manufacturers and retailers bow to pressure to switch to alternatives made from natural ingredients instead. From the end of this year you’ll no longer be able to buy known brand names like BugClear Ultra, which relies on the neonicotinoid acetamiprid, linked to bee deaths, as its active ingredient. Manufacturer Evergreen is discontinuing it, along with all but one of its synthetic products manufactured using man-made chemicals, and will instead be rolling out a new range based on natural ingredients derived from plants or animals. “Long term, we don’t have a choice: synthetic products are very low-risk but the regulatory authorities are getting stricter and stricter,” says Evergreen’s Brand Portfolio Manager,…

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▪ Ligularias Towering summer spikes in yellow and orange that thrive in sheltered shade, but suffer under midday sun. Here at Longmeadow we grow: ‘The Rocket’, with thin spires and black stems; L. przewalskii, a damp-meadow native; and ‘Desdemona’, with dramatically contrasting orange flowers and purple-black leaves and stems. ▪ Hostas Thick-leaved varieties are less attractive to slugs, while shade protects foliage from scorch, especially after frosts. Two giants at Longmeadow are ‘Sum and Substance’, with deeply ribbed, lime-green leaves; and ‘Snowden’ with glaucous, blue-green leaves. We also have H. sieboldiana elegans, a heart-shaped variety with grey-green foliage. ▪ Candelabra primulas Primulas love damp shade and flower for an astonishingly long time. My favourite this year has been Primula bulleyana, which has balanced orange bobbles stacked on a tall stem…

The Nurture Landscapes Garden Drought-tolerant plants such as rhizomatous irises and succulents were major features. Plants growing in containers need more water than those in the ground, so choosing ones that need less watering is both easier for you and better for the environment. The Sadler’s Wells East Garden Many Mediterranean herbs such as thyme, rosemary and sage are fine in hot, dry summers. Carefully laid paving stones can direct any rain towards the plants next to them, and also reduce evaporation of moisture from the soil surface. The Balance Garden This design incorporated industrial materials such as gabions, which are used for road building. Scattering seed around these structures softens them and results in plants that adapt to their growing conditions being resilient and drought-tolerant.…

There’s no doubt that the garden centre’s ‘reduced price’ section can save you money, but it’s important to take time to inspect your bargains. There are common problems that need not cause long-term damage, but that have the same symptoms as some serious diseases. So here, I’ll be guiding you through ‘bargain-bin’ plants and helping you ensure that your ‘bargain’ really is worth it. Once your new plant is home, you’ll need to give it some extra TLC. Look at your purchase rationally – take your time and use your head as well as your heart. I’ve yet to meet a gardener who didn’t have a sizeable amount of compassion and a bit of a tendency to love and nurture… but when hunting for real plant bargains, you also need…

1 Harvest your cuttings material from a shrub, hedge or climber, ideally early in the morning. Select new growth produced this year, which should be produced from a healthy, problem-free plant. Place in a damp plastic bag to reduce water loss. 2 Shorten the shoots to 10-15cm long, cutting just below a leaf node. Then strip the leaves from the lower two-thirds of the stem, leaving up to six at the top. With larger-leaved shrubs such as photinia, cut the top leaves in half, so the cuttings dry out less quickly. 3 Make a 50:50 mix of peat-free multipurpose compost and perlite or horticultural grit, which ensures both moisture retention and good drainage. Take a 9cm or 12cm pot and fill with the compost mix. Firm gently so the surface…

Providing your garden with interest all year long, Cortaderia selloana Tiny Pampa flowers abundantly in summer with feathery plumes. Growing to just 60cm tall, it is the perfect choice for smaller gardens, balconies and patio pots. Supplied as 2 established plants in 9cm pots, ready to pot on or plant out. Height x Spread 60cm x 60cm Flowers August ■ 2 plants in 9cm pots £19.98 SAVE £10 (560991) PLUS get 2 FREE 25cm pots, worth £13.98 FREE Blooming Fast Superior Soluble Fertiliser A high-potency, soluble fertiliser. Each 5g scoop makes 5L of feed. ■ 50g pack worth £2.99 FREE (100068) MORE OFFERS Twin pack peat-free multi-purpose compost A peat-free option for general use, from seedlings and cuttings to potting on and baskets. ■ 2 x 40L bags £23.97 SAVE £13 (100102) FREE delivery worth…

STEP BY STEP Get evergreen hedges in shape Give evergreen hedges a trim to keep them in shape now that the nesting season is over. Evergreens are popular cover for many songbirds, so do a quick check before you start to make sure that any birds have gone. Finish the job by pulling out weeds growing along the base of the hedge. 1 PUSH in tall canes along the hedge. Tie a line at the level you want the height to be. Trim the sides so they taper towards the top. 2 KEEP the shears flat to make the hedge level along the top. Move back along the hedge, trimming any sprigs that stick out. 3 PICK out cut stems that are still on the hedge. Use a tarpaulin on the ground to collect…

Care for your pond plants Maintain your pond plants to create the best environment for the plants and the aquatic creatures that the pond attracts. Waiting until this month causes the least disruption to spring breeding. For a range of breeding sites for insects and amphibians, you need submerged oxygenating, floating-leaved and emergent marginal plants around the edges on shallow shelves; some creatures rely on open water and clear space at the bottom of the pond. Vigorous-growing aquatic plants will readily use nutrients that are in the water, which helps keep the water clear of algae that can bloom and turn the water green when there are too many nutrients. Submerged oxygenating plants will colonise rapidly, so there is no need to plant more than one small clump per square…

This month 132 Gardeners’ Question Time The BBC Radio 4 experts answer this month’s pick of readers’ queries, including: ■ Vet medications in horse manure ■ Using shower water in the garden ■ The best way to apply nematodes Fuchsia rust Leaves are the factories in which plants process light and air to make the energy that powers them. This works best when they’re green and healthy, so when diseases like rust change their colour and coat them with pustules, the plants lose vigour. In the case of fuchsia rust, yellowish blotches appear on the upper leaf surface and orange pustules underneath, usually in summer and autumn. Sometimes the leaves turn purplish. Later the leaves shrivel and fall off altogether. Although this fungal disease is called fuchsia rust, it also infects…

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