From Nancy Singleton Hachisu’s cedar plank house in Kamikawa-machi, Saitama-ken, she leads Brian down winding country roads toward Yamaki Jozo, a 100-year old maker of shoyu, miso, and tofu. Inside the warehouse, artisans stir enormous barrels of fermenting moromi (shoyu mash) by hand, the air thick with salt, umami, and sweetness. Each barrel is alive, its surface gently breathing with the movement of koji and time.
Stepping back into the sunlight from the dark, aromatic world of the shoyu warehouse, they walk across the property and slip through a gate, where the day shifts—from a century of slow fermentation to the unexpected, comforting pleasure of a perfectly crafted burger. At Yuba Cafe, run by the same family who owns Yamaki Jozo, Brian indulged in their Yuba Burger, featuring yuba (soy…
