SHORTLY AFTER THE CENTRE POMPIDOU in Paris closed its doors this fall for a multi-year renovation, another landmark cultural space debuted to fill the critical void left behind in the French capital. Mind you, “debuted” may not be quite the right word; really, the Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain has moved on from its celebrated glass building imagined by Jean Nouvel in the 14th arrondissement, where it had been operating since 1994. (Before that, from 1984 on, it overlooked an immense park in Jouy-en-Josas, near Versailles, where two gigantic sculptures, Arman’s Long Term Parking and César’s Hommage à Eiffel still stand, now a bit lonely.) Today, the foundation has taken up residence facing the Louvre, surrounded by historic monuments in a Haussmann-era building that was, in past lives, a hotel,…