Innholdsfortegnelse for February - April 2025 i Australian Traveller

I HOPE YOU ARE feeling rested and ready for 2025 after the summer holiday period. I spent my break lying low around Sydney/Warrane, appreciating what my hometown has to offer and taking day trips within a two-hour radius. These mini adventures gave me the change of pace and perspective I needed to reset. The downtime also let me reflect on last year’s travels. A highlight for me was a trip to Bullo River Station in the north-west corner of the Northern Territory on the cusp of Western Australia. At the time of my visit, the working cattle station had just been announced as the latest member of Luxury Lodges of Australia for its harmonious balance of authentic experiences and elevated outback hospitality. For me, this was the ultimate inspiring adventure,…

A pub revival So long tacky beer-stained carpets and smoke-enveloped pokie rooms. Hello sleek interiors and seasonally driven menus. Many of our favourite watering holes have undergone multimillion-dollar makeovers of late, elevating our Aussie pub scene in both style and substance. The Denmark Hotel, WA This classic coastal pub has been a main character in Denmark’s story for almost a century, and its latest chapter has begun after an extensive makeover restored it to the glory of its heyday. The renos have exposed charming original green brick, heritage fireplaces, and included a complete overhaul of its Bar & Bistro (pictured right) and 24-room lodge. A boutique cellar-slash-bottle-o, Denmark Drops, completes the picture. Hotel Sorrento, Vic The iconic 1872-built Hotel Sorrento (left and below) on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula has reopened after…

SIGNIFICANT ARTWORKS adorning the new Sydney Metro stations reference either the history or natural environment of each site. Three imposing works at Waterloo Station, created by Nicole Monks in collaboration with the local community, reflect the Indigenous past, present and future of the suburb and surrounding areas. The smiling face of young Aboriginal dancer Roscoe greets commuters alighting from the Metro. Alongside the escalator, sparkling community footprints cast in aluminium tread a circuitous path across the wall. Look for the words Footprints on Gadigal Nura (Nura meaning Country) that mark the entrance to the station. The grungy streetscape opposite the entrance sits in stark contrast with the bright, new interior of the station. From here you can discover murals by well-known Australian street artists; vibrant theatre and arts hub, Carriageworks;…

Sunrise at Uluru The desert landscape becomes a giant canvas during the all-new immersive Indigenous laser, light and sound show at Voyages Ayers Rock Resort, Ulur−u. Those staying at the resort will be in position to enjoy the state-of-the-art animated installation, Sunrise Journeys, during the dawning of a new day over Ulur−u. voyages.com.au Sounds of the NT Music festivals in the Northern Territory are designed to cast a spell. Worth circling on your 2025 cultural calendar are Barunga Festival (6–9 June), BASSINTHEGRASS (17 May), Garma Festival (1–4 August), Bush Bands Bash (14 September) and Freedom Day Festival (22–24 August), which celebrates 50 years since the ‘Hand Back’ in 1975. northernterritory.com Hats off to beanies The colourful Alice Springs Beanie Festival was designed so Aboriginal women in remote communities could crochet…

I’M A LITTLE NERVOUS as I walk down towards the Normanby River at Kalpowar Crossing. The waterways around here, inside Queensland’s Rinyirru National Park, are notorious for two resident species. The first of those, barramundi, are prized by anglers and best cooked over hot coals, with perhaps a squeeze of lemon. The second, estuarine crocodiles, are likely to reverse that scenario. There’s already a man up ahead standing by the riverbank, though not too close to risk being trapped inside the jaws of a dinosaur. He’s wearing the Cape York Peninsula uniform of garish fishing polo and trucker cap over quick-dry shorts and thongs so, rather obviously, I ask him if he’s come here to fish for barra. “No chance,” he says, shaking his head vigorously. “I’m not going near…

ART AND SOUL Melbourne/Naarm’s acclaimed Flack Studio is behind the inspired interiors of Ammamead House in Byron Bay. Lovers of 20th-century design will covet the curated collection of furniture and art that includes iconic pieces by Space Furniture and works by artists such as Lindy Lee. Expect pops of colour around the four-bedroom, three-bathroom holiday home, which has a pool, day beds, chef’s kitchen and concierge service, and is just steps from the beach. byronbayluxuryhomes.com THE CALILE CALLING The Calile Hotel is so cool it is set to be cloned in Noosa on the Sunshine Coast. The integrated new urban resort will be designed by architects Richards & Spence, the firm responsible for the original Brisbane/Meanjin iteration of the home-grown Queensland brand. The resort will sit lightly in its grey-green…

IF WE’RE DRILLING into it, Byron Bay hasn’t had a dress-up-and-go-out seafood fine diner since Steve Snow packed up his 22 chefs hats and decamped his beloved Fins to Kingscliff. That was seven-ish years ago now and while Byron has an elegant sufficiency of notable restaurants, some of which do treat seafood with deft mastery, there’s been a tuna-shaped hole in the town ever since. Byron, as we’re all aware, is the glittering lure dangling off the line of far north coast holiday spots in NSW. It reels in all types of tourists, from dreadlocked, fire-twirling Spaniards to bleached-haired Japanese surfers and interstate city escapees looking to sync with Byron’s boho-luxe tempo. A considerable number of the latter can afford a market-price whole fish. So when the five-star Hotel Marvell…

I’M CLICKING MY CHOPSTICKS in delight. Renowned Perth/Boorloo restaurateur Jacquie Chan is revolutionising winery dining with her much-loved Asian eatery and dumpling house, Miss Chow’s, in Margaret River. The new opening is a sister venue to Miss Chow’s in South Perth and Claremont, and joins Chan’s line-up of city gastronomic gems, including Lucy Luu and Moon & Mary. The mod-rectangle building sits boldly alongside the new cellar door at Edwards Estate, smack-bang in the middle of wine country. The black-and-white exterior, a stark contrast to the rolling and swaying native vegetation, is victorious with its confidence. Clever native landscaping lends a soothing element and ushers me down the pathway to an unassuming entrance. My ‘where-is-the-view?’ question is answered once I step inside. Floor-to-ceiling glass hugs the capacious 200-seater room. The…

Flight seeing Howzat? Former Australian cricketer Glenn McGrath is the co-owner of Outback by Air, which offers captivating tours from Kakadu to the Kimberley. From guided tours over the gentle folds of the Flinders Ranges to a Classic Outback Pub Crawl and Unique Ulur−u, the all-inclusive itineraries offer uninterrupted views of the rugged landscape. outbackbyair.com.au Cross-country journey Hop onboard the Indian Pacific as it cuts along the world’s longest stretch of railway track between Perth/Boorloo and Sydney/ Warrane. A new extended four-night all-inclusive journey makes the vast outback appear within reach from the comfort of a luxurious carriage. Experiences include an outback drive to Broken Hill’s Living Desert State Park. journeybeyondrail.com.au Kimberley calling Get a feel for the Kimberley by letting small-group tour company Intrepid Travel take care of the…

ALL IS CALM AT Bullo River Station as I sip my sundowner while gazing out across the homestead’s well-tended lawn. Brahman cows graze in a paddock beyond. On the horizon, the contours of a craggy range place this otherwise pastoral scene squarely within the rugged outback. The sky unrolls before me like a sheet of blotting paper suffused with orange, pink, purple and blue. As if out of nowhere in the evening stillness, a chopper roars into frame. It lands just over the fence and, blades whirring to a stop, unloads two of our fellow guests. Hair still drying from a wild swim at a waterfall and fresh from a spectacular sunset, they are breathless and exhilarated and apologise for disrupting the peace of our pre-dinner cocktail hour. But I…

UNTIL 21 APRIL Yayoi Kusama MELBOURNE, VIC Don’t miss your chance to catch the highly anticipated Yayoi Kusama retrospective at Melbourne/Naarm’s NGV before April rounds out. The eponymous exhibition is the largest of its kind in Australia, with close to 200 works featuring everything from Kusama’s iconic polka dots and pumpkins to sculpture, collage, fashion and film, as well as the Japanese artist’s globally recognised mirror rooms, a hallmark of 21st-century art.ngv.vic.gov.au 4–13 APRIL PARRTJIMA – A FESTIVAL IN LIGHT ALICE SPRINGS, NT Alice Springs/Mparntwe’s Parrtjima – A Festival in Light returns in 2025 to celebrate 10 years of art, culture and technology on Arrernte Country. Exploring the theme of Timelessness, the free 10-night festival will host a spectacular array of live music, interactive art installations, panel talks and nightly…

Brighton trend Take a moment when you arrive at Malèna Cucina & Bar to admire the sumptuous interiors inspired by Monica Bellucci. The restaurant in Brighton, Melbourne/Naarm, is run by Michelintrained Domenico Fazzari and is a celebration of southern Italy. Don’t miss the cremoso al fieno (white chocolate dessert topped with caramelised hazelnut crunch, pictured above). malena.au Thrill of the grill The Grill is one of the most coveted spots at multi-dimensional venue The International, which rises above Harry Seidler’s modernist mushroom in the civic heart of Sydney/Warrane. Book ahead as the tables on the terrace are as popular as the dishes on culinary director Joel Bickford’s menu. The raw scallop with cultured cream, white radish and chardonnay (pictured right) is a highlight. internationalsydney.com SWEET SPOT Benny’s is the new…

THE CEDARS IS AN unlikely artistic hotspot. And yet, for half a century, this 60-hectare estate hidden in a sleepy dale deep in the Adelaide Hills was one of the first stops for world-renowned artists visiting Australia. “This dining room is where [Russian prima ballerina] Anna Pavlova danced, Marcel Marceau mimed and Sir Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh recited Shakespeare,” says Celeste Chamberlain, one of the volunteer tour guides at this remarkable property. The reason for their pilgrimage was to visit Hans Heysen, who came to Adelaide/ Tarntanya from Germany as a six-year-old and grew up to become one of Australia’s most celebrated landscape artists. The avenue of stately Himalayan cedars by the front gate was already four decades old when Heysen arrived at this property in 1912, and he…

A CURIOUS THING happens to me soon after checking into the new Novotel & ibis Styles Melbourne Airport: I momentarily forget I’m in an airport hotel. Given that I have a 6am flight the next morning, anything to distract me from my impending alarm is a welcome relief. This dual-branded property – the first new-build at Melbourne Airport in two decades – sits within arm’s reach of Terminal 4, yet feels just as intimately connected to the city it serves. A cobbled bluestone walkway leads into a light-filled lobby, evoking Melbourne/Naarm’s gritty laneways. The soaring clumps of bamboo filling the adjacent atrium are, I’m told, a nod to the contribution made by Asian migrants to the cultural tapestry of Victoria. Meanwhile, an aerofoil-shaped awning resembling the cross-section of a wing…

THE BUSH POETS my uncles always loved start to make sense as I fly into Longreach. I do love a sunburnt country. I also love watching the tiny shadow of this small Dash 8 Qantas plane as it glides over the red dirt stubbled with dry, brown grass. My window seat offers great views of the landscape, which is dotted with shrubby trees and divided by the winding rivers that cut their own path through the Queensland outback. I love seeing the sudden glint of white and silver rooftops amid the earthy pastels, which indicate touchdown is mere moments away. But Longreach isn’t our final destination. We still have a two-hour drive to Winton, through Big Sky Country and wide-open emu farms, where we see the resident fauna running on…

Sleep under a sky full of stars The Ridgetop Sleepout Tour is one of the magical experiences on offer at premier ecotourism destination Arkaroola. Bunker down in ancient terrain at the International Dark Sky Sanctuary, where the stars and planets above are sewn like diamantes on a deep indigo cape. arkaroola.com.au Beauty of the Billi The Billi Resort is a nod to the local Indigenous name for the coastal area of Cable Beach in WA: Bilingurr. The accommodation has several villas as well as luxury eco safari tents from which you can make excursions to nearby Cable Beach. Otherwise, switch your phone to silent mode and hang by the pool and fire pit. thebilli.com.au Walk this way Experience the immensity of a cobalt blue outback SA sky from the comfort…

STEPPING FROM THE TEMPERATE rainforest into a cool, dark gully, I’m greeted by a blast of frigid air that makes my arms break out in goosebumps. Cut off from the sunshine for all but a few hours each day, this moist, fertile environment supports a glut of greenery that’s almost violent in its profusion. Ferns seem to sprout from the solid rock and the trees flanking a swiftly rushing creek are hidden beneath cloaks of sparkling moss. This secret garden feels completely shielded from the outside world. And yet, just a few metres away, the landscape cracks open to offer the most expansive views imaginable. Near the point where Den Fenella Creek tumbles over the edge of a sandstone escarpment, I stare out over an ocean of green, the rumpled…