Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2021 - July 2021 i Australian Traveller

IT PROBABLY GOES WITHOUT SAYING that we could all do with a weekend away after the year we have had. There is something deliciously special about the thought of stealing away for a few days. Maybe it’s because the concept of a weekend away or short break seems to be much more focused on indulging in some serious ‘you’ time as opposed to a long-haul holiday, where the aim is often to pack as much as possible in. I don’t know about you, but I regularly feel like I need another holiday to recover from the one I just had. But after a few days spent eating, drinking and relaxing, I’m raring to go. Of course, that doesn’t mean that you can’t be a bit intrepid when it comes to…

Getting there Sunshine Coast Airport is 15 minutes from Maroochydore, with direct flights from Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney, Cairns, Canberra and Newcastle.(sunshinecoastairport.com.au). By road, the Sunshine Coast is 100 kilometres from Brisbane, with car rental companies located at Sunshine Coast Airport and Brisbane Airport. Staying there Check-in at the LOEA BOUTIQUE HOTEL is via the vintage van that doubles as a bar at this cool coastal hideaway. loea.com.au The soft trilling of birds lulls guests to sleep at LOVESTONE COTTAGES, a romantic couples’ retreat in the hinterland. lovestonecottages.com.au SECRETS ON THE LAKE looks like it has been modelled on the Magic Faraway Tree with 11 whimsical treehouses looking out over Lake Baroon. secretsonthelake.com.au Eating there Get a taste of the Sunshine Coast with a Moreton Bay bug salad and pale ale…

1 BOOLIMBA BLUFF WALK This tough 6.4-kilometre return hike, which includes steep sections with steps and ladders, is well worth the scramble. Traversing a diverse range of landscapes, it rises 200 metres above Carnarvon Creek to afford awe-inspiring views of the gorge. 2 MAIN GORGE TRACK This 19.4-kilometre return walk winds to the upper reaches of Carnarvon Creek taking in the gorge’s highlights along the way including the Moss Garden, Ward’s Canyon, Amphitheatre and Art Gallery. Do it in a day or camp overnight at Big Bend. 3 CARNARVON GREAT WALK Linking Carnarvon Gorge to the Mt Moffatt section (known as ‘the roof of Queensland’) of Carnarvon National Park, this 87-kilometre circuit with five walkers’ camps along the way allows serious hikers to absorb the remote majesty of the park…

ON THE STREET 1. Maje SWEATER, $445; nordstrom.com 2. Auguste the Label midi DRESS, $199; augustethelabel.com 3. Sambag ‘Poppy’ FLATS, $320; sambag.com.au 4. ASOS 4505 TOP, $44; asos.com 5. Witchery CAP, $29.95; witchery.com.au 6. Local Supply ‘Rio’ SUNGLASSES, $95; localsupply.com 7. Bohemian Trader classic flare JEANS, $159.95; bohemiantraders.com 8. ASOS 4505 LEGGING, $60; asos.com 9. Bohemian Trader BLAZER, $189.95; bohemiantraders.com 10. Maje SWEATER, $445; maje.com.au 11. New Balance SNEAKERS, $150; newbalance.com.au 12. Holly Ryan RING, $800; hollyryan.com.au 13. Hills & West SHOPPER TOTE, $369; hillsandwest.com Life’s a beach 1. Sportsgirl ‘Harper’ SANDALS, $29.95; sportsgirl.com.au 2. Brixton ‘Domino’ CARDIGAN, $99.95; brixton.com 3. Oroton TANK, $129; oroton.com 4. Holly Ryan ‘Picasso’ EARRINGS, $240; hollyryan.com.au 5. Teva ‘Hurricane Drift’ SANDALS, $79.95; teva.com 6. Brixton fedora HAT, $99.95; brixton.com 7. SWF DRESS, $299; swfboutique.com…

Getting there Magnetic Island is a 20-minute ferry ride with SeaLink from Townsville in North Queensland. Qantas andVirgin fly to Townsville from Brisbane direct with connections from other major capitals. Jetstar flies from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne to Townsville direct. Staying there MAGGIE A-FRAME is a barefoot island hideaway, sleeping up to five people, framed by palms and mango trees a short walk from Horseshoe Bay. airbnb.com.au BEST OF MAGNETIC manages a portfolio of architecturally designed homes such as Headland House, built among the boulders above Picnic Bay with private beach access, and the cute and compact (and also pet-friendly) Little Bush Hut in Nelly Bay. bestofmagnetic.com Playing there THE BEACH CLUB MAGNETIC ISLAND PICNIC WITH BOAT TRANSFER starts from $349 per couple with an additional charge to access more…

Adina Apartment Hotel Brisbane Originally opened in 1922 as the Queensland Government Savings Bank,Adina Apartment Hotel Brisbane has made maximum use of its original Art Deco features of the banking chamber such as columns, carved wood panelling, ornate ceilings and endless marble to create a sophisticated hotel that offers all the features of an apartment. adinahotels.com Gilberton Outback Retreat Sitting within a seventh-generation working cattle station in goldfields country, the retreat (pictured) is fashioned from local stone and timber and finished with luxury inclusions like a pillow-topped king bed and soaking tub with views of the seemingly endless outback landscape.There’s no phones, television or internet so the escape from modern society here is complete. gilbertonoutbackretreat.com…

LOCH Located in the rolling, lush farming countryside of South Gippsland in ‘Prom Country’, Loch is the kind of delightful small town that Victoria does as stock-and-trade. An easy drive from Melbourne, the township was bypassed back in 2008, which led to a revival of quaint here. The main street is infinitely strollable, passing by small shops filled with antiques and collectibles and cosy cafes like Udder & Hoe. Basing yourself in Loch also allows you to sample the wares of the craft breweries, distilleries and wineries that thrive in the area. DUNKELD With a population that hovers well under the 1000 mark, Dunkeld is a picture-perfect town that is also a gateway to the impressive scenery and nature of the Southern Grampians. Divide your days into nature-based pursuits in…

KANGAROO ISLAND Australia’s third largest island is SA’s natural playground, accessible via a 30-minute flight from Adelaide or 45-minute SeaLink ferry ride from Cape Jervis. It’s all about indulging in both locally produced food, wine and craft spirits, and unfiltered nature: from sea lions basking in the sun surveying the wild Southern Ocean and a rugged coastline studded with beautiful beaches to the wilderness of Flinders Chase National Park coming back to life after the 2019/20 bushfires. Plan a long weekend at least to get a taste of what the island has to offer. ADELAIDE HILLS Just beyond city limits and offering a countryside idyll studded with heritage architecture and contemporary interventions, the pull of the Adelaide Hills for weekending Adelaidians is strong. A choose-your-own-adventure kinda place, it offers up…

PERCHED ON THE BANKS of the mighty Katherine River, Katherine, or ‘K-Town’ as it’s affectionately known to Territorians, is where the big outdoors meets small town charm, offering one of the Northern Territory’s fastest evolving regional experiences. From Darwin take the three-hour drive down the Stuart Highway, through the historic townships of Adelaide River and Pine Creek, to discover quintessential Australian outback and some of the best Indigenous experiences in the country. Built in the 1870s to service the Overland Telegraph Line, NT’s fourth largest town is currently in the midst of a metamorphosis from ‘frontier town’ to a popular weekend getaway hotspot. Yellow canoes float on the emerald water at Nitmiluk National Park near Katherine, mountain bikers pull on helmets to tackle newly built mountain bike trails, cafes serve…

PIERMONT RETREAT, SWANSEA Sitting on the east coast looking out to Great Oyster Bay, Piermont Retreat is a haven of style and substance, with 15 sustainably built stone and wood cottages scattered throughout the existing she-oaks and gum trees, all anchored by the 180-year-old homestead that houses the property’s casually elegant restaurant. Inside, the one-, two- and three-bedroom cottages come with log fires, spa baths and full kitchens, while outside there are two private beaches, a pool, tennis courts and a great swathe of pristineTasmanian nature to experience including the nearby Freycinet National Park. piermont.com.au SCAMANDER SANCTUARY HOLIDAY PARK, SCAMANDER This delightfully situated holiday park , located next to a peaceful nature reserve in the seaside town of Scamander, has glamping to suit all comers, from cosy, couple-friendly bell tents…

ROTTNEST ISLAND (WADJEMUP) A quick trip across the water to Rottnest Island is the quintessential short break from Perth, espousing the kind of timeless appeal that makes worries melt away the moment you step off the ferry for a few days of leisurely cycle rides to bays and beaches, swimming, snorkelling and quokka-spotting. And the recent opening of a squeaky new resort expands the accommodation offering: Samphire Rottnest on Thompson Bay blends the island’s signature relaxed coastal style with a little luxury; rooms are chic, natural and understated and the spoils of lagoon-style pools, beachfront cocktails and more are just a towel’s flick away. Also, for the first time in November, Gourmet Escape brings its fine foodie events to the island. BROOME The beguiling beach resort and pearling town of…

UNTIL 19 DECEMBER Mirka THE JEWISH MUSEUM OF AUSTRALIA, MELBOURNE, VIC The most expansive survey of her work to have been staged, this exhibition at the Jewish Museum of Australia: Gandel Centre of Judaica, in collaboration with William Mora Galleries, is a window into the rich and fascinating life of Mirka Mora, one of Melbourne’s most treasured artists who passed away in 2018 aged 90 .jewishmuseum.com.au 16 JULY – 1 AUGUST Illuminate Adelaide ADELAIDE, SA A first of its kind in SA, this brand-new winter festival will take over Adelaide’s city streets, laneways and architecture in a fusion of innovation, music, art, light and technology. Program highlights include The Avalanches performing seminal album Since I Left You live with the Adelaide Symphony Orchestra, Van Gogh Alive and Light Creatures at…

In a new light Peter Conistis, the owner of premier Sydney Greek eatery Alpha, is like a kid in a candy store. As he stands amid power tools and workmen in the Castlereagh Street space, which is nearing the end of an extensive front-to-back renovation when we meet, he points towards the largely finished open kitchen where a new wood-fired oven, smoker and spit roast are ready to be fired up. He tells me that it took seven years to get council approval for their installation due to safety concerns, which is ironic considering there is a fire station right across the road. Once the kitchen is up and running, under the watchful eye of head chef James Roberts, who has joined us on the construction site walk-through, it will…

Pack these short and compelling books for a quick weekend away. HEAT AND LIGHT BY ELLEN VAN NEERVEN This award-winner from Indigenous writer van Neerven explores familial bonds and an uncertain future in three parts. YOUR DUCK IS MY DUCK BY DEBORAH EISENBERG In six stories Eisenberg creates characters worthy of a novel each, as they deal with love, grief and tragedy. KISS KISS BY ROALD DAHL The 11 stories contained here deal with devious dealings and the sinister side of human nature in typical Dahl style. THE OFFICE OF HISTORICAL CORRECTIONS BY DANIELLE EVANS Through the moments and relationships in her characters’ lives, Evans explores the issues of race, culture and history in modern America. GRAND UNION BY ZADIE SMITH The legacy of the past and the uncertainty of…

Paramount House Hotel, Surry Hills Eschew the Sydney CBD on your next city break and discover the personality of the inner-city suburb of Surry Hills, with its profusion of eateries, great shopping and colourful locals, from your base at this seriously cool hotel (above). paramounthousehotel.com East Hotel, Canberra For family breaks, book the Kids Cubby, a connecting room that comes complete with bunk beds, a kids’ minibar and Xbox 360 with games. Parents will love the classic cocktails and lo-fi feel of Joe’s Bar downstairs. easthotel.com.au Bangalay Luxury Villas Just minutes’ walk to the beach at Shoalhaven Heads, Bangalay LuxuryVillas’16 villas are all sharp lines, spacious interiors rendered in a muted palette of neutrals and black, and finishing touches including Nespresso machines, full kitchens and fireplaces. bangalayvillas.com.au Salt @ South…

THE HUMIDITY OF THE WET SEASON clings like Lycra as we climb the granite steps cut into the headland. It’s only a short trail – 1.7 kilometres, or so the sign says – but I’ve already lost track of how long we’ve been walking. I’m too busy smiling, stopping frequently to marvel at the beauty dished up at every altitude – slivers of sapphire sea, gnarled trees sprouting from car-sized boulders smattered with lichen. The track forks and my friend and I descend towards the sea, somehow summoning butterflies to surround us while freshwater flows down a thin ravine beside our feet. We reach the bottom, a clearing, and endless blue sky illuminating the frangipani trees and coconut palms that frame Radical Bay. It’s the most magical part of the…

A trip to Castlemaine isn’t complete without exploring the other towns nearby, connected by a landscape of gently rolling green and gold. Don’t miss Chewton (six kilometres south-east), with its live music roster at funky Red Hill Hotel, and the apple-growing hub of Harcourt (18 kilometres north), with craft cider, boutique wines and world-class mountain biking. I spend a morning in delightful Maldon, a 15-minute drive north-west of Castlemaine, which enjoys the distinction of having been made Australia’s first National Trust-listed ‘Notable Town’ in 1966. Its heritage streetscape hewn straight from the gold rush is today remarkably intact, with ghost signs – such as the striking blue Bushells one that adorns a building on the main street – adding extra character. Well underway, the Maldon Streetscape Revitalisation Project includes shopfront…

NAIKO RETREAT, FLEURIEU PENINSULA South Australia does an excellent line in stylish, edge-of-the-earth coastal retreats that leave nothing between you and the swell of the ocean but some designer decking. Case in point, Naiko Retreat. Its distinctive curvilinear form comes courtesy of Max Pritchard Gunner Architects, the team behind Uluru-Kata Tjuta’s Longitude 131˚ and Kangaroo Island’s Southern Ocean Lodge (as well as its planned rebuild following the 2019/20 bushfires) and delivers the ultimate weekend refuge.A luxurious and sustainable stay for up to six people, it’s all pendant lighting, polished concrete floors and freestanding bathtubs that, making the most of the property’s hilltop position on a remote working sheep farm, afford sweeping views out towards Kangaroo Island. naikoretreat.com.au THE FRAMES, RIVERLAND A stay in the Riverland region is a chance to…

KAKADU NATIONAL PARK There’s nothing quite like cruising through the wetlands of Kakadu on a Yellow Water Billabong cruise, swimming in a plunge pool at the top of Gunlom Falls or gliding over the Mary River floodplains on an airboat at Bamurru Plains to soothe the soul. And there’s nothing like marvelling at age-old rock art like that found at Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) and Ubirr. Even just a few days in this surprisingly accessible national park – three hours’ drive east of Darwin – will leave you feeling recharged long after you’ve returned to your everyday life. CORROBOREE BILLABONG At once calm and full of life, to hang out on a billabong for a few days is to truly be a guest of the animal kingdom. Stop short of Kakadu on…

RABBITS SCATTER-BOLT throughout the misty garden when I close Wandering Trout’s side-entrance door behind me. A few steps and I’m on Mole Creek’s main drag where streetlights are still on even though it’s light enough to see without them. There’s nobody else around except a lone truck driver passing by with a load of felled trees that may have started life well before the name Tasmania was ever spoken here. I arrived late yesterday afternoon from Launceston, rejecting the highway for a more inefficient scenic route between blackberry-lined paddocks of red soil while the sinking sun made silhouettes of the surrounding outcrops of kooparoona niara/Great Western Tiers. This northern part of Tasmania’s Central Highlands has recently been rebranded the Heartlands, with signs and everything. Yet, no matter how you reframe…

WESTERN AUSTRALIA HAS the longest coastline of any state or territory in Australia, running ribbon-like for more than 20,000 kilometres around a great chunk of the country – so it’s no surprise it wins our vote here. And what’s even more remarkable is the sheer diversity of landscapes found along these shores, bounded by the Indian Ocean to the north and west, and the Southern Ocean to the south. At one extreme is the KIMBERLEY, where you’ll find yourself intoxicated by red pindan dirt offset by sparkling turquoise water, and at the other, ESPERANCE, where that same elemental blue bounces off some of the whitest sand you’ll find on the planet. And then there’s everything in between. See the sun set over the ocean on iconic CABLE BEACH (1) in…

THE SHOREHOUSE, WA Hole yourself up for brunch overlooking Swanbourne Beach, just north of Cottesloe, in Perth. With its yellow-and-white-striped parasols popping against the blue duet of sky and Indian Ocean, this laid-back spot provides the ideal backdrop to start your day. Embrace the coastal locale with a blue swimmer crab omelette and cap it off with a Bloody Mary. If the Red Snapper – gin, horseradish, mustard, red wine vinegar and hot sauce – doesn’t wake you up, nothing will. shorehouse.com.au THE BOATHOUSE HOTEL PATONGA, NSW A weekend brunch in Sydney will ideally take place as close to the water as possible and the coastal-chic Boathouse Group does it best. You’ll find this lovely spot in the fishing village of Patonga, just beyond the city limits on the Central…

Carnarvon Gorge Criss-crossed with over 20kilometres of walking trails through which to explore the beauty and diversity of the landscape, Carnarvon Gorge is the most-visited section of the national park . Here, white sandstone cliffs change colour as the sun cuts across the sky and form a steep gorge 32kilometres in length. Carnarvon Creek flows year-round at its base, creating its own cool, luxuriant ecosystem. From above While helicopters are not permitted to fly over Carnarvon Gorge itself due to noise restrictions, you can – and should – marvel at the magnitude of the landscape from above on a Heli-Central Gorge Scenic Flight, which soars the 11-kilometre-long Moolayember Gorge, adjacent to Carnarvon Gorge and so remote that it would take seven days to walk in and out. Ferns and mosses…

THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD might be famous for the coast-hugging section between Lorne and the 12 Apostles, but the entire region is laced with stunning road trips that hardly anyone, other than the lucky locals who live there, knows about and even fewer travellers take the time to drive. Those that do, quickly realise they’ve found gold. Here’s our pick of five of the best. LORNE TO BIRREGURRA Resist the urge to hit the road after a big breakfast, because this is one road trip best done on an empty stomach. It takes roughly 45 minutes to drive the C151/152, a lovely winding road that twists through the rainforest hinterland behind Lorne to Birregurra. But once you’re there you’ll be glad you didn’t eat and drive because this tiny little…

1 What percentage of Australians live within 50 kilometres of the coast? 2 What is the second highest mountain in the country? 3 How many Olympic-size swimming pools would it take to fill Sydney Harbour? 4 How many species of fish are there in the Great Barrier Reef – 1625, 5050 or 7500? 5 What other name is Eleanor Nancy Gow known by? 6 How long is the Murray River – 1068 kilometres, 2508 kilometres or 3070 kilometres? 7 What distinction does Prime Minister Frank Forde hold? 8 Which bank note is Banjo Paterson featured on? 9 What is the floral emblem of Australia? 10 How old was Jimmy Barnes when he moved to Australia from Scotland? 11 True or false: Australia is the only continent in the world without…

ALBURY The border town of Albury is often mentioned as the starting point for road trip explorations of the mighty Murray River, but there are many reasons to visit that don’t involve leaving as soon as you get there. Albury’s prosperous history is writ large along its main street where heritage buildings spanning the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco architectural eras sit proud. The delightful boutique design hotel Circa 1928 fills a regal 1920s former bank building (complete with an original safe in one of the bathrooms), while a short walk away the modern outline of the Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA) dominates. And that’s Albury to a T; the joy of exploring here is in walking its streets, pausing in its parks and gardens, eating at its proudly local…

Wulgurukaba (Traditional Owners, the canoe people) lore says the boulders were created by Gabul, a giant carpet python who carved the landscape of all the islands off the coast of Townsville. He came to rest on Yunbenun, where his head can still be seen in the Arcadia headland.While much of the island’s physical Indigenous imprint – shell middens and rock art – lies hidden within the 2790 hectares of national park that makes up a little more than half the island, the snaking, raised pathway from Geoffrey to Nelly Bay was named Gabul Way in 2013 as a tribute.…

Getting there Castlemaine is one and a half hours by car or train from Melbourne, and 30 minutes by car or train from Bendigo. Staying there Choose from one of CASTLEMAINE BOUTIQUE ACCOMMODATION (castlemaineaccom.com.au) or MALDON GETAWAYS’ (maldongetaways.com.au) unique properties. Check into the design-driven boutique EMPYRE HOTEL (empyre.com.au) in the heart of Castlemaine, or book a room at the iconic NORTHERN ARTS HOTEL (northernartshotel. com.au), recently taken over by Maggie Fooke, former owner of Fitzroy institution Brooklyn Arts Hotel in Melbourne. Playing there Learn more about the history of the region with a day out on the VICTORIAN GOLDFIELDS RAILWAY aboard a steam heritage train linking Castlemaine and Maldon, and visit the MOUNT ALEXANDER DIGGINGS NATIONAL HERITAGE PARK to view the relics and remains of the region’s gold mining past.…

Whether you call it a weekend away or a city break, the one thing we can all agree on is that Melbourne is one of the best cities in the world to while away a few days in, eating at its countless fine diners, shopping its buzzing neighbourhoods and lounging in its stylish hotels.The ranks of said hotels have swollen rather than shrunk during the pandemic, with a swag of new properties coming online of late.The headline opening in the last six months has been the funky W MELBOURNE (marriott.com), but you might also want to check into the colourful boutique offering QUINCY HOTEL MELBOURNE (pictured; tfehotels.com) or the luxe LANCEMORE CROSSLEY ST (lancemore.com.au).As for old favourites worth revisiting after so long, our recommendations would include ADELPHI HOTEL (adelphi.com.au), the…

FLINDERS ISLAND The largest of the 52 Furneaux Islands that sit in the roiling waters of Bass Strait, Flinders Island represents 1367 square kilometres of untamed drama and beauty. It takes just 35 minutes’ flying time from Launceston to reach its shores, but the difference in the pace of life is marked. Once on-island, visitors can spend their time indulging in nature, nature and more nature, hiking the dramatic granite mountain ranges of Strzelecki National Park, fishing its pristine waters, walking its deserted beaches and feasting on the plentiful local produce. CYGNET Bordered by the D’Entrecasteaux Channel on one side and the Huon River on the other, Cygnet is where Hobart locals escape for the weekend, with holiday ‘shacks’ scattered throughout the picturesque region. Like many other locations in Tasmania,…

NAME: NIÜBI LOCATION: MELBOURNE, VIC DESIGN: T-A SQUARE WITH A NAME THAT’S SLANG for f*cking amazing to Chinese youth and netizens, the fit-out for Niübi, a new arrival in Melbourne’s bustling Chinatown district, needed to be pretty impressive. Housed in a historic warehouse that was the venue for one of the area’s first Chinese restaurants in the 1800s, this sleek space created by architecture and design practice T-A Square reflects the approach taken to the food served there, which combines Asian tastes that are big on flavour and spice with the best Australian produce. The interiors are a meeting point for east and west, and traditional and modern. Original features like textural exposed brick walls and warehouse window and doors are combined with terrazzo tiles, rattan screens and blond timber,…

AS A CHILD, OUR FAMILY HOLIDAYS WERE ALWAYS TO… Phillip Island, Victoria (1). I’ve been coming to Phillip Island with family since I was two. NOW IF I HAVE TIME FOR A SHORT BREAK, I HEAD STRAIGHT TO… Phillip Island! Now my brothers and I bring our kids and partners and spend time together with my dad at his place there. It is such a beautiful part of the world and a great chance for all of us to spend time together. MY LOCAL’S TIP FOR MY HOMETOWN OF MELBOURNE IS… research. Restaurants, bars and cafes are often changing and evolving. Ask for tips from locals. I say you can never go past stalwarts like Cicciolina in St Kilda for a fun dinner with friends, or Chez Olivier in South…