Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2019 - January 2020 i Australian Traveller

BIG SKY RIDGEVIEW LODGE Big Sky Retreats, purveyor of new boutique stays in the heart of Victoria’s Alpine High Country, has debuted the gracious Ridgeview. Located in the town of Bright and taking inspiration from American-style lodges, the four-bedroom property is steeped in country chic, with lots of cosy areas to relax in, as well as an outdoor pool (made from an upcycled shipping container), a steam room and a barbecue. bigskyretreats.com.au THE RITZ-CARLTON, PERTH Perth is quite the boomtown right now when it comes to hotel openings, withThe Ritz-Carlton one of the most hotly anticipated of them all.The venerable brand has taken up residence at the Elizabeth Quay precinct, with the striking exterior and lobby adorned with 10,000 pieces of handpicked Kimberley sandstone. Inside, the property boasts 205 luxe…

Jonny Dustow, co-founder of vanlifediaries. com , and van-living musician, has been living in vans for seven years now. • Having a hot shower option when living full-time or part-time in a van is a big thing for me that makes it feel more like a home. • Look for free camp options in nature as often as you can. I love the van lifestyle of travelling and exploring Australia as it cuts down on accommodation costs. I always have all the gear I need with me, and, most importantly, I have my bed with me wherever I go! • If you are in a city or town and you want to free park for the night, find a safe place to park, don’t be loud and bother those with homes,…

APT’s 11-day COOKTOWN & CAPE YORK quest to the top of Australia’s Tropical North is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. The tour’s exclusive Signature Experiences means you’ll be granted access (by helicopter, no less) to the Steve Irwin Wildlife Reserve, a conservation area typically off limits to the public. Take to the skies again on a scenic helicopter flight from Punsand Bay for a different perspective of the tip of Cape York, and spend the last days of the tour exploring Thursday Island and Horn Island in the sparkling Torres Strait. APT’s 4WD journeys are designed for small groups – no more than 22 guests – escorted by a knowledgeable driver-guide and tour director. They’re committed to working with local Aboriginal communities, and are the only major tour operator with an advanced…

DAUGHTER IN LAW 37/41 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne,Vic; daughterinlaw.com.au Verdict: A refreshingly modern take on Indian-Australian dishes that will keep you entertained long after your stomach is full. Expect an upbeat crowd and lively flavours. Score:  We rated: The drop-dead-gorgeous interior – bottle-blue velvet, millennial-pink walls and gold accents – and the snackable street-food inspired dishes. We’d change: The music. A kitsch mix of disco quickly turned into trashy pop tunes that took away from the dining experience. Notes: Dinner for two costs around $120, with an excellent feed-me menu at $55 a head.…

Getting there Fly direct to Hamilton Island airport from most major capital cities, then board a one-hour private charter to Hayman Island during which sparkling and snacks are served. Staying there INTERCONTINENTAL HAYMAN ISLAND RESORT offers 166 luxury rooms, suites and villas across three distinct wings: Beach, Pool and Lagoon.The pool suites have direct access to the iconic main pool, while the beach villas look out to the Coral Sea.Also on offer are two luxury four-bedroom Residences situated on the island’s hilltops for the ultimate in luxury, with full access to the resort’s facilities. Eating there There are plenty of dining options at Hayman.The resort’s signature bar and restaurant PACIFIC offers a buffet breakfast in the morning and à la carte dining in the evening. AQUA is a pool-side menu…

140 MILLION YEARS AGO Kakadu lay under a shallow sea. Fast forward a few years to 2017 and game-changing excavations of a rock shelter at the base of the Arnhem Land escarpment indicate humans reached Australia at least 65,000 years ago, 18,000 years earlier than previously thought. A POPULATION of around 2000 people lived in the Kakadu area prior to European settlement. Hunter-gatherers who moved with the seasons, they used temporary dwellings such as paperbark shelters near billabongs and wet-season huts built on stilts on the floodplains. (About 500 Aboriginal people live in outstations within the park today, on land that is under claim or protected by Aboriginal land rights). IN THE 1800S water buffalo were imported to Australia to supply meat to remote northern settlements.After escaping or being abandoned…

Located in the heart of the Wheatbelt and nearly 300 kilometres south-east of Perth, Katanning has enjoyed the knock-on effects of the trail, even if its silos have remained paint-free.A series of street art murals by some of the silo artists, instead, adorn the town’s walls and transformer boxes. Initially a working-class community centred around local captain of industry Frederick Piesse’s Premier Roller Flour Mill, Katanning is now a multicultural hotspot.The town is home to 50 different ethnic and religious groups, with Muslims (mostly from the Cocos Islands and Malaysia) making up 10 per cent of the population.This diversity comes to the fore at the annual Katanning Harmony Festival, where the various cultures display their food, entertainment and history. The mill lives on as the five-star boutique Premier Mill Hotel…

Getting there The Twelve Apostles Lodge, your Twelve Apostles Lodge Walk base, is three hours from Melbourne. Transfer from the city with Australian Walking Company or self-drive. Touring there THE TWELVE APOSTLES LODGE WALK is a four-day walk that covers the last 55 kilometres of the The Great Ocean Walk, with three nights’ accommodation at Twelve Apostles Lodge in Johanna. The walk operates from September to May and maximum group size is 10. Rates start from $2195pp. AUSTRALIAN WALKING COMPANY now also offers a three-day itinerary, the Twelve Apostles Long Weekend, from $1675pp. auswalkingco.com.au…

RAC Karri Valley Resort This family-friendly property in Western Australia’s South West has undergone a $5.7-million renovation, resulting in the updating of its lake and forest-view chalets, the creation of a new reception area and an extensive refurbishment of the Lakeside restaurant (including an updated menu concentrating on local produce and flavours). A caravan and camping area is still to come. racparksandresorts.com.au ibis Styles East Perth With its signature vibrant design and quirky personality on show, the ibis Styles East Perth (pictured above) offers up 252 guest rooms over 18 floors, all imbibed with colour and fun.There’s also Eastside Social Restaurant & Bar, a state-of-the-art gym, and convivial co-working spaces, all at a budget-friendly price. ibisstyleseastperth.com.au Adina Apartment Hotel Brisbane After being shuttered since September 2018, the heritage-listed Adina Apartment…

THE PINK HOTEL COOLANGATTA 171 Griffith Street, Coolangatta, Qld; thepinkhotelcoolangatta.com Verdict: Kitsch decor and revelry is the schtick here; best suited to people who don’t take life too seriously. Score:  We rated: The tongue-in-cheek interiors, from the cheeky neon signs to the communal ice-box painted ‘Ice, Ice Baby’. Its location, directly across from the beach and within walking distance to shops and dining, is also unbeatable. We’d change: The hotel appeals to party people, so it was a little noisy at times during the night. Notes: We paid $223 for a Superior King Suite.…

name: The Barefoot Bay Villa where it is: Smack in the heart of Byron Bay why we love it: The stylish new build is a perfect example of laid-back luxury; all the design elements and finishing touches are brilliantly considered without being fussy or laboured. This imbibes the space with a sun-drenched holiday feel all year round, whether relaxing in the open-plan living space with the doors flung open or splashing in the pool. what to borrow: Getting the look is a cinch given that designer and owner Melissa Bonney (the-designory. com.au) has filled The Barefoot Bay Villa with products from over 60 Aussie businesses and brands she regularly works with and believes in, all of which you can shop when you get home, from the taps to the dishes…

Getting there It takes roughly five days to drive the 712-kilometre circuit from Glen Innes to Armidale, but earmark a full week to do it at a leisurely pace. Virgin (virginaustralia.com) flies from Sydney to Coffs Harbour airport, where you can hire a car and drive the three hours to Glen Innes, or do the lap backwards starting from Armidale. Regional Express (rex.com.au) flies direct to Armidale from Sydney. Staying there Start your Little Lap in the heart of New England at the historic homestead at WATERLOO STATION (waterloo-station.com.au).Take the detour from Inverell to FARAWAY DOMES (farawaydomes.com) for off-the-grid luxury with a one-of-a-kind view. THE ALBERT MOTEL (albertmotel.com.au) is a comfortable pit stop only a stroll away from Moree’s main attractions.After hiking Mount Kaputar in Narrabri, relax and unwind at…

IT’S EVERY CHILD’S DREAM COME TRUE, to be locked inside a zoo once the gates have closed and the visitors have all gone home. And I’m living it. There is nothing nefarious about how I have found myself within the grounds of Sydney’s celebrated Taronga Zoo after dark; rather it is all well conceived and purposeful. I am a guest at the Wildlife Retreat at Taronga, a new 62-room eco-retreat owned and operated by the Taronga Conservation Society Australia. It’s a privileged position to be in but a necessary one: as zoos around the world attempt to stay relevant in an age when our senses are heightened to the indignation of keeping majestic animals in enclosures, it is this melding of experience and education – with luxury inclusions and multimillion-dollar…

Getting there There are daily non-stop flights to Perth from all capital cities in Australia. Staying there A killer location next to Kings Park (with views to match), ultra-cool design, and comfort make TRIBE a clever and budget-conscious boutique hotel. tribehotels.com.au Inspired by Australian artist Matt Adnate, just-opened THE ADNATE is an artistically immersive stay and includes one of the world’s largest murals, complimentary art tours and an art library. artserieshotels.com.au/adnate Design-led hotel, QT PERTH, has an industrial luxe and totally hip vibe. Service is one of a kind, dining is impressive and the rooftop bar is the place to be. qthotelsandresorts.com/perth Set to open in November, THE RITZ CARLTON PERTH is one of the country’s most anticipated hotel openings. The ultra-luxe hotel sits on Elizabeth Quay and features panoramic…

Getting there Qantas and Virgin Australia fly direct to Darwin from several Australian cities. Kakadu National Park is a three-hour drive from Darwin; your guide will collect you from your accommodation. Touring there Operating in the dry season (May to October), LORDS KAKADU & ARNHEMLAND SAFARIS creates bespoke tours for private groups. Suggested itineraries include a one-day Kakadu tour, a four-day Ultimate Peek and a five-dayTop End Luxury Safari Experience. lords-safaris.com Lords Kakadu & Arnhemland Safaris is a founding member of AUSTRALIAN WILDLIFE JOURNEYS, a group of expert independently owned and operated wildlife tourism operators in all corners of the country, who have joined together to raise awareness of Australia as a world-class destination for authentic and sustainable encounters with wildlife in the wild. australianwildlifejourneys.com Visit northernterritory.com for more on…

Getting there The PUBLIC SiloTrail is a self-guided driving tour that can start and end wherever you’d like. Nor tham is the closest to Per th, an hour and a half drive’s east. publicsilotrail.com Eating there THE STORE CAFE 6343 in Pingrup is open seven days a week, with all-day breakfasts and lunches made with regional produce. 0408 730 908 Staying there The beautifully restored PREMIER MILL HOTEL in Katanning is central to many of the silo towns. premiermillhotel.com Playing there NEWDEGATE SKATE PARK is suitable for all ages and skill levels. RAVENSTHORPE WILDFLOWER SHOW AND SPRING FESTIVAL is a world-class botanical floral display held annually in September. wildflowersravensthorpe.org.au…

Getting there The Limestone Coast stretches along South Australia’s south-eastern coast from Coorong National Park to the Victorian border. Its biggest town, Mount Gambier, is a 70-minute flight from both Adelaide and Melbourne. For road trippers, it is about four hours and 40 minutes from Adelaide and five hours from Melbourne. Staying there Quaint and perfectly positioned, the CALEDONIAN INN’S COTTAGES BY THE SEA is a beachfront gem. caledonianinnrobe.com.au Enjoy glamping among centuries-old red gums at BELLWETHER WINES, just metres from the cellar door. bellwetherwines.com.au Eating there A lunch-only restaurant in the Coonawarra, FODDER features a share-plate menu bursting with fresh, colourful produce. fodder.net.au On Robe’s main strip, SAILS is a welcome combination of mouth-watering meals and small-town service. sailsatrobe.com.au To sample the Wagyu beef the Limestone Coast is renowned…

EAT YOUR VEGGIES With plant-based restaurants springing up everywhere and fab vegan-focused cookbooks hitting the market, it’s never been so cool to eat your veggies.We asked Daniel Ng, general manager of Vincent Vegetarian Food, whose new vegan cafe and market is now open in Melbourne’s Fitzroy, why plant-based is best. HOW HAS THE MARKET FOR PLANT-BASED FOOD CHANGED SINCE YOU STARTED OUT IN 1996? There are more and more people learning to incorporate plant-based meats into their meals and so we have seen an increase in the popularity of foods such as mock chicken, bacon and duck. TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THIS INCREASING POPULARITY? It has been largely due to the increasing awareness of the impact of the agricultural industry on our environment, as well as animal cruelty concerns.…

FIRST THINGS FIRST: WHAT IS THE BIG LAP? At its most literal, the Big Lap describes the journey to circumnavigate the country at its edge, travelling mainly on Highway 1, which clocks in at about 14,500 kilometres and links almost every mainland state and territory capital. In fact it is considered the longest national highway on the planet, taking in the likes of the Princes Highway, Eyre Highway, Great Northern Highway, Stuart Highway, Bruce Highway and Pacific Highway, among others. Of course, there’s no show without Tasmania, so add a circular trip around our southernmost state, starting in Launceston (put the car/van/caravan on the ferry in Melbourne and alight in Devonport; it’s just over an hour’s drive from there to Launceston) and driving the A10 from Strahan to Hobart and…

THE FINDERS KEEPERS, QLD, NSW MORE THAN 1200 INDEPENDENT MAKERS SELL THEIR WARES AT THESE BIANNUAL MARKETS. ACCOMPANIED BY LIVE MUSIC AND LOCAL FOOD,THE SHOPPING HERE IS STYLISH, CREATIVE AND FILLED WITH ONE-OF-A-KIND FINDS. MELBOURNE HAS WRAPPED UP FOR THE YEAR, BUT YOU CAN CATCH BRISBANE'S MARKET AT THE SHOWGROUNDS (8–10 NOVEMBER) AND SYDNEY’S AT BARANGAROO (6–8 DECEMBER). THEFINDERSKEEPERS.COM UNDERCURRENT DESIGN MARKET, ACT Super-cool design markets and low-key community crafting have always been Canberra’s best secret for travellers in the know. Part of Design Canberra Festival, this one is run by the Curatoreum, the much-loved store within the National Portrait Gallery. Running 22-24 November, you’ll find art books, giftware and original pieces for your family and friends. designcanberrafestival.com.au Bazaar 2019, WA THREE GLORIOUS SHOPPING DAYS, 50 OF THE WEST'S BEST…

AT THE TURN of the 20th century, the cool, quiet and classic seaside region of Port Stephens was destined for great things. World-scale great things. It was to be the site of a new capital named Port Stephens City, designed by Walter Burley Griffin. The future city was described in local papers as ‘the New York of Australia’. Ambitious plans included two railway stations, a CBD, federal and state office sites, an industrial district, wharves, parks and playgrounds. Alas, despite the carving out of roads and subdivision and sale of land in the 1920s, Griffin’s company went bust and the city never came to fruition. Today, Port Stephens plays a very different role to the one imagined a century ago. This seaside region is the epitome of living life blissfully…

WHEN VISITING AN ICON, opportunities are rife for disappointment. The weight of expectation can be a cumbersome burden to bear, informed as it is by past glories, hype and second-hand experiences, both good and bad. Hayman Island is a perfect example. Long considered the jewel in the crown of the Whitsundays, a sublime collection of islands, sprinkled like confetti across the warm waters off the coast of Queensland, Hayman was arguably Australia’s first internationally recognised luxury resort, hosting the great and the good over its 70- year history, and accumulating a reputation (a mystique even) that requires constant effort to live up to. But it’s been tough going over the last few years: the brutal force of nature and uncertainty in ownership has left the island resort languishing while its…

Staying there An overnight stay at the Wildlife Retreat atTaronga is priced from $790 for two adults and includes a two-course dinner, buffet breakfast, exclusive immersive animal experiences and complimentary general admission to the zoo. Proceeds from each and every stay supportTaronga’s ongoing work caring for animals within its two zoos here in Australia (Taronga Zoo Sydney and Taronga Western Plains Zoo in Dubbo), as well as through conservation programs around the world. taronga.org.au/retreat…

Getting there The closest major centre to Mungo National Park is Mildura, between two and three hours’ drive.Whichever way you drive, you will inevitably encounter unsealed roads that are usually in good condition.Always check road conditions and carry adequate food and water. Touring there Guided walks around the Walls of China with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Indigenous rangers can be arranged at the Mungo Visitor Centre (July through October). nationalparks.nsw.gov.au There are a variety of tours that also cover the wider park, such as Balranald-based Outback Geo Adventures. mungonationalparktours.com Staying there Mungo Lodge is about 15 minutes’ drive from the MungoVisitor Centre. On a sprawling 77-hectare property, the lodge is well appointed with large rooms, a restaurant and a cosy bar area. mungolodge.com.au Flying there A scenic flight gives…

6AM: Rise and shine Start the day just before dawn with a climb up TABLE TOP MOUNTAIN (1) to catch the sunrise over the LOCKYER VALLEY.The early morning is worth it for the views! 7.30AM: Early bird Pop into THE FINCH CAFE (2) for a well-earned coffee and brekkie. Be sure to try my favourite – the local roasted Goombungee mushrooms. 9.30AM: Market days If you’re here on a Saturday, wander through the FARMERS’ MARKETS [at the Cobb+Co Museum] on Lindsay Street where you can pick›up the best seasonal produce and chat with the growers. 10.30AM: Art and interiors Visit the TOOWOOMBA REGIONAL ART GALLERY on Ruthven Street, which exhibits local artists. And afterwards, pop down the road to MAGNOLIA HOME &…

1 DECEMBER TO 13 APRIL KEITH HARING | JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT: CROSSING LINES NGV INTERNATIONAL, MELBOURNE, VIC The two street artists who redefined the US art world in the 1980s are celebrated with love at this unprecedented exhibition. More than 300 artworks including notebooks, sculpture and photographs document how they changed public-space art forever. ngv.vic.gov.au 22–24 NOVEMBER QUEENSCLIFF MUSIC FESTIVAL PRINCESS PARK, QUEENSCLIFF, VIC Headlining Tim Finn and The Cat Empire, this event has been lighting up the Bellarine Peninsula for 23 years. (Also, last year’s plastic rubbish has been turned into this year’s tables and benches.) qmf.net.au 10 & 24 NOVEMBER THE COLOR RUN SYDNEY OLYMPIC PARK, NSW & FLEMINGTON RACECOURSE, VIC If endorphins aren’t enough, this charity run is the so-called ‘happiest 5k on the planet’ because of the…