Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2018 - January 2019 i Australian Traveller

LIFESTYLE CHOICES Creatives Alexandra Heard and Heleena Trahanas have a shared background working across fashion and lifestyle publishing, with Heard now curating events for local and international brands including Iittala and Louis Vuitton, and Trahanas working as PR and marketing manager for Dinosaur Designs. With little spare time on their hands, the duo have nonetheless managed to launch Alex and Trahanas, a lifestyle brand that includes stunning jewellery pieces in collaboration with artist and designer Louise Olsen, Italian ceramics, and a capsule collection of six fashion pieces crafted in Italian aloe vera-infused linen that are insanely good to travel in and with. We asked Heleena to tell us about the genesis of Alex and Trahanas, the technology of its fashion-forward fabric and her dream destination to pack her capsule wardrobe…

There’s a new distillery in town, but Sydney establishment Brix Distillers isn’t plying a fashionable gin or discerning whisky; it’s on to the next big thing: rum. What’s more it’s housed in a suitably cool, considered space created by design firm Amber Rose on Surry Hills’ Bourke Street where you can sample cocktails at the bar and enjoy casual dining courtesy of ex-Bodega chef Ivan Sanchez. By way of introduction, co-founder Damien Barrow suggests the Brix White rum conjured into a signature Connecting Flight cocktail: “Brix White is crafted in the heart of Sydney from premium Australian molasses. The freshness, lightness and herbaceousness make it the perfect match for the delicate, elegant and floral flavours of crème de violette in this drink.” THE RECIPE CONNECTING FLIGHT 40…

Three Capes Lodge Walk , Tasmania Tasmanian Walking Company has added a collection of streamlined yet comfortable lodges to the award-winning Three CapesTrack to offer walkers the ultimate accommodation in Tasmania’s dramatic landscape. CRESCENT LODGE and CAPE PILLAR LODGE have been built to exacting environmental standards; external timber shutters have even been installed on windows to prevent the local birdlife flying into them. taswalkingco.com.au Hayman Island, by InterContinental Hayman Island, Australia’s premier luxury island resort, which has been shuttered since Cyclone Debbie hit in March 2017 is set to finally reopen in 2019 (after a management deal was struck with IHG) as HAYMAN ISLAND, BY INTERCONTINENTAL. Stay tuned for details. ihg.com Larmont Sydney Located in Sydney’s Potts Point, LARMONT SYDNEY has just taken out a place on US Condé Nast…

FOR GENERATIONS, FAMILIES in New South Wales and southern Queensland have holidayed in the sleepy coastal town of Yamba. With a usual population of 7000, come Boxing Day each year it increases dramatically, as those in the know fill the town’s holiday home rentals, B&Bs, resorts, motels and caravan parks. Bordered by national park, the Clarence River and no fewer than four beaches, the natural beauty of Yamba is something to behold. On the north coast of NSW, 670 kilometres from Sydney, and 300 kilometres from Brisbane, it’s an accessible spot for those looking for a relaxed place to unwind. The natural environment of Yamba and its surrounds provides a long list of things to see and do; its famed beaches are all within an easy walk of each other,…

FARO 655 Main Road, Berriedale,Tas; mona.net.au Verdict: Restrained Spanish-inspired cuisine housed in a world-class gallery space, an absolute must-visit when in Hobart. Ideal for dinner dates and indulgent lunches. Ditch the car, take the Mona ferry and try the gallery’s own beers and wines. Score: We rated: The architecture (it has to be seen to be believed), the ‘Unholy Water’ bottled cocktails (keep the bottle as a memento), and the menu’s variety (perfect for sharing with friends). We’d change: The queues at Mona – but they’re always worth the wait. Notes: The bar is open to museum visitors between 11am–6pm Wednesday–Monday. Book for dinner up to a month in advance and to go all out, a $25 deposit secures your spot and access toTurrell’s Unseen Seen…

WHILE THE GENERAL PERCEPTION of our national capital skews towards the staid, due in large part to the profusion of politicians and public servants going about the serious business of running the country, Canberra is going through a serious style reboot that is being played out away from the halls of power on the streets of its burgeoning neighbourhoods and precincts; Lonely Planet included the city on its list of the top 10 cities in the world to visit in 2018, and it has been cropping up on quality-of-living lists for years now. At the heart of this urban vitalisation is the inner-city hub of Braddon. While only settled in 1922, Braddon is, in fact, one of Canberra’s oldest suburbs: the Federal Capital Territory (later named the Australian Capital Territory)…

FROM VICTORIAN BATHING BOXES to depression-era beach shacks and post-war fibro houses, the holiday home has long loomed large in the Australian psyche and symbolised the national spirit at its various stages of evolution. For many of us it means childhood and nostalgia and the chance to capture an elusive feeling of contentment and freedom. But today there is no one architectural vernacular to draw on and instead a summer bolthole can take many forms: refurbished retro gems, modernist masterpieces, contemporary villas, eco retreats, you name it. What exactly constitutes the perfect holiday home will differ from person to person, but you can guarantee that the core essence will remain the same whoever you ask (and that it will almost always be close to the beach). “The perfect holiday home…

Getting there Wild Pedder’s Pedder Experience departs from and returns to Hobart. Fly direct to Hobart from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth. Playing there The four-day Pedder Experience costs $2490 per person and includes all transport to and from Hobart and during the trip, three nights’ accommodation in the Pedder Wilderness Lodge, all meals including picnic lunches and dinner each night at the lodge, an allocation of premium Tasmanian wine and other beverages each evening, plus guided wilderness experiences in groups of no more than eight people.A very good base level of fitness is required and preparation is recommended. Trips run from November through to April. wildpedder.com.au…

MICHELLE DAWSON, along with Josh Ingham, heads up No.4, a cosy cafe in the quaint seaside town of Robe in SA, serving a mod-Australian menu made predominantly from local produce. With an ethos of ‘sourced then shared’, this unique, community-focused cafe is adorned with artworks by Limestone Coast artist Hamish Macdonald, hosts a traditional Sunday high tea, and even has a special menu for your four-legged friend. Here, Michelle shares her local secrets to having the perfect day in Robe. THE NITTY GRITTY: WHERE EXACTLY: Just under four hours south-east of Adelaide. POPULATION: 1090 WHAT IT’S ALL ABOUT: Located on the Limestone Coast, Robe is one of South Australia’s most beautiful historic towns with heritage-listed architecture. Blessed with coastal beauty including a 17-kilometre-long pristine beach aptly named Long Beach, a…

Lesa is more Restaurateurs Christian McCabe and DaveVerheul’s long-awaited Melbourne venture LESA is finally open, inviting diners to experience a slower pace of life, lingering over a four-course experience from the regularly changing produce-driven menu – the bergamot meringue is pictured above. lesarestaurant.com.au Royal warrant Paddington drinking institution THE ROYAL, opened in 1907, has had a makeover thanks to (who else?) Merivale, with a revamp of the much-loved front bar, and additional areas coming this summer. merivale.com Hang out Adelaide Airport has a new hotel, Atura Adelaide Airport, and within it a new eatery, HANGAR BAR & GRILL, that will give travellers and those seeing them off a generous, colour-saturated dining space overseen by executive chef Thomas Bator, an Adelaide local. aturahotels.com Dine and wine Brokenwood’s year-long Cellar Door development…

Getting there There are up to 18 flights a week from Sydney to Grafton with Rex. From other capital cities and for greater airline choice, fly to Gold Coast airport and take a scenic two-hour drive south toYamba. Staying there Accommodation options range from camping to hotels and include a vast number of holiday rental properties; you are going to want to book early, especially for peak season. Both the SANDS RESORT (sandsatyamba.com.au) and ANGOURIE RESORT (2.5 kilometres from Yamba; angourieresort.com.au) are welcoming options. Eating and drinking there There is no shortage of choice when it comes to meal times. Self-catering is easy with supermarkets, specialty food stores, a great butcher, and the growers’ and farmers’ markets. LECHE CAFE, open every day except Tuesday, serves excellent breakfast. 0401471202 IRONS AND…

IF THE HALLMARKS of a good holiday are memories that sustain you until your next escape, then proof of a solid restaurant has to be the dish that takes your mind hostage, compelling you to order it every single time you return. The culinary kidnapper at new Perth Cantonese restaurant Grand Orient is the Peking duck. Now, I know slivers of roasted skin and tender meat wrapped in hoisin-drizzled pancakes are reliable winners, but this rendition – sliced and served elegantly at the table – sees the eyebrows shoot skyward. The wow factor comes care of the crisp, dark brown shell; it bears a layer of bubbled fat that feels like honeycomb on the tongue. A strip of fried tofu skin – chef ’s secret weapon, perhaps – enhances the…

W BRISBANE 81 North Quay, Brisbane, Qld; wbrisbane.com Verdict: Like slipping into an outrageous outfit for a night on the town, the W pairs frivolity with five-star amenities in a box-office location. Score: We rated: The punch of personality in an otherwise safe hotel landscape and on-point dinner atThree Blue Ducks. Order the Moreton Bay bugs! We’d change: I’d ditch the teeny single-use plastic water bottles in the rooms and hope the bar service improves. Notes: We paid $314 for a Wonderful Room. Overnight valet parking is $58.…

THE WHALES HAVE THE SAME IDEA as us, only this time of year they’re doing the NSW coast in the other direction. Gazing out to sea from a headland at Cabarita Beach, Tweed Heads, there’s no end to bushy plumes of blow and flashes of surfacing bulk as humpback whales migrate north for winter. No matter the direction you head, a coastal NSW road trip offers up a mash-up of the usual and the unusual, the breathtaking and the awe inspiring, and whatever takes your fancy. The 1000 or so kilometres between Tweed Heads at the Queensland border and deep south Eden burst with options and surprises. DAY ONE The first surprise: Tweed Heads has (virtually) guaranteed snorkelling with green sea turtles. Tiny, craggy Cook Island, a quick boat trip…

THIS IS FAST FOOD FOR SNAKES – about 50 kilometres per hour to be precise. At the mouth of Barker’s Cave in Undara Volcanic National Park, thousands of flying microbats whir and whiz all around us on their way out for an evening’s forage. Standing in an eerie cloud of high-speed, virtually invisible bats, we trust their aerial wizardry extends to not slamming into our faces. The snakes are foraging, too. Barker’s Cave is their drive-through McDonald’s, except it’s the food that’s driving through. Draped on nearby branches, brown tree snakes are poised to pluck a mid-air bat snack as the ghostly gazillions zoom by. The tree is so well-placed you could almost believe the snakes had it installed, but it’s a perfect example of environment shaping behaviour. The trees…

“Fortunately thanks to our informed global society, holidaymakers have never been more knowledgeable and inspired,” says Contemporary Hotels’ Matthew Fleming. But a few tips from the experts can go a long way.“Rule of thumb is to book early if you require a Christmas, school holiday or long weekend booking, as often properties are booked 12 months in advance,” he says. “As individual circumstances and tastes vary, it’s commonsensical to be very clear about your requirements, needs and budget.” “When people go on holidays, they come home and tend to book their next one straightaway, or they book the same holiday that they just had,” says Airbnb’s Sam McDonagh. So, if you’re onto a good thing, book it – “one tip I would give to people is don’t wait.” “First and…

Row – Learn to row on the Mitchell River at the historic Bairnsdale Rowing Club. New members are welcome anytime. Beginner lessons are held on Saturday mornings. Sail – Sail the lakes of Bancroft Bay in a pearl lugger that leaves from Lakes Entrance. Learn to sail a smaller vessel at the Metung or Paynesville yacht clubs. Paddle – Hire a kayak from the LakeTyers shop or from Bulls Cruisers in Paynesville and paddle the gentle waters of LakeTyers or LakeVictoria among the pelicans and swans. Fish – Let Far Out Fishing’s experienced fishermen steer you through the man-made entrance at Lakes Entrance to the open sea and the chance to catch a merlin or snapper. Cruise – Skipper a four- to 12-berth cruiser from…

7AM: Wake up with yoga Book a private yoga class with Pam who runs YOGA PAM. If the weather allows, she’ll take your class on the foreshore overlooking beautiful Guichen Bay (1). 8.30AM: A lobster breakfast At NO.4 (2), find us at 4 Victoria Street, we serve a seasonal brunch menu. Our signature dish is lobster scrambled eggs; the lobster is caught off the shores of Robe. Pair it with No.4’s own blend of coffee (or a cheeky breakfast martini). 10AM: History and retail therapy Robe should be explored on foot. Immerse yourself in its history; look out for plaques on the exterior of buildings providing a snapshot of days gone by. While you’re out exploring, take some time for a little retail indulgence.You’ll…

MELBOURNE BAR BLACK PEARL HAS EARNED A PLACE ON THE LIST OF THE WORLD’S 50 BEST BARS, COMING IN AT NUMBER 30 BEHIND DRINKING DENS IN THE LIKES OF LONDON, NEW YORK, PARIS AND TOKYO. THE FITZROY INSTITUTION WAS THE ONLY AUSSIE ESTABLISHMENT TO MAKE IT INTO THE TOP 50, BUT THERE WAS A STRONG SHOWING FROM 51–100,WITH SYDNEY’S BULLETIN PLACE AND THE BAXTER INN COMING IN AT NUMBERS 75 AND 78 RESPECTIVELY, WHILE COLLINGWOOD’S ABOVE BOARD (PICTURED) CAME IN AT NUMBER 95. WORLDS50BESTBARS.COM…

The natural environment ofYamba and its surrounds provides a long list of things to see and do. Head first for TURNERS BEACH; framed by a long break wall to one side and a coastal cliff on the other, the beach is patrolled during summer months and is a popular spot for fishing. Climbing over a rock verge and steps carved into the cliff face leads to the landmark PILOT STATION LIGHTHOUSE and its commanding position overlooking Clarence Head. A few hundred metres further around the coast brings you to MAIN BEACH, home to the Surf Life Saving Club and Yamba’s ocean pool. At low tide a careful walk over rocks at the water’s edge leads around to CONVENT BEACH and SOUTH HEAD PARK. Crossing the park takes you to PIPPI…

GRAND ORIENT Melbourne Hotel, 33 Milligan Street, Perth,WA; melbournehotel.com.au Verdict: Fabulous food in a fabulous location.The high-end Cantonese is worth the price tag for a classy lunch with friends or a refined evening meal. Score: We rated: Dishes arrive promptly, so you can be in and out in under two hours (should you want to be). Flavours get greater weighting than presentation, and we’re fine with that. We’d change: Service fits the brief, but is perhaps a little perfunctory. Notes: We visited for lunch and dinner and enjoyed both sittings – a later booking means you can also hit the hotel’s svelte rooftop bar for a nightcap with views.…

WHEN WORD BROKE that Hobart’s enfant terrible David Walsh was developing a brand new wing of Tasmania’s infamous art gallery Mona, bets were hedged about what on Earth it would house. Dubbed Pharos, after Egypt’s historic lighthouse, the plans revealed world-class immersive pieces by American artist James Turrell, and that one – a closed sphere in which the viewer lies down to witness a light display – would be installed in the centre of the new museum wing’s Spanish-inspired bar-restaurant, Faro. Here, diners would snack on kingfish ceviche and Pedro Ximenez-soaked churros while art patrons teeter out of the conspicuous orb (Unseen Seen), grappling with a mind-bending sensory experience. I was intrigued. Locating Faro is an experience in itself. I pause on my labyrinthine journey to ask for directions, but…

Getting there Qantas flies daily to Hobart from most capital cities (qantas.com).The drive along theTasman Highway will take roughly two and a half hours. Freycinet Lodge can also be reached from Launceston; the drive takes about two hours.You'll need a pass for each day you intend to stay in the national park ($24 per day; available from reception), which should be clearly displayed in your car at all times. Staying there Rates for the Coastal Pavilions start from $949 per night; freycinetlodge.com.au Eating there Book at least one dinner at THE BAY RESTAURANT to experience the seasonal menu of delicious Tasmanian produce. Head to FREYCINET MARINE FARM and snag a spot on the deck to enjoy incredibly fresh seafood; freycinet marinefarm.com. The DEVIL’S CORNER CELLAR DOOR offers up more fresh…

Stay HALCYON HOUSE, CABARITA BEACH If Gatsby surfed he’d have bought this place. halcyonhouse.com.au ANGOURIE RESORT,YAMBA Nestled in rainforest just outside town. angourieresort.com.au MANTRA THE OBSERVATORY, PORT MACQUARIE 4.5 stars overlookingTown Beach. mantratheobservatory.com.au ANCHORAGE HOTEL & SPA, PORT STEPHENS Waterside tranquillity with great sunset views. anchorageportstephens.com.au FORTY PACES BEACH HOUSE, CULBURRA BEACH Big, comfy self-caterer with breakfast hamper. stayz.com.au TILBA LAKE CAMP,CENTRAL TILBA Glamping “eco-pods” on a small farm. tilbalakecamp.com.au GREEN CAPE LIGHTHOUSE, BEN BOYD NATIONAL PARK This one’s a keeper. nationalparks.nsw.gov.au Eat BLUE GINGER PICNIC LUNCH, KINGSCLIFF BEACH bluegingerpicnics.com INDIAN FUSION TAPAS BAR & RESTAURANT,YAMBA indianfusionyamba.com BEACHSTONE CAFE, SAPPHIRE BEACH Scenic coffee pitstop near Coffs Harbour. beachstonecafe.com.au LV’S ON CLARENCE, PORT MACQUARIE lvsonclarence.com THE STUNNED MULLET, PORT MACQUARIE thestunnedmullet.com.au THE LITTLE NEL, NELSON BAY Local favourite in Port Stephens’…

qualia, Qld Having taken out this award now for too many years to remember, there is little doubt that qualia is in a field of its own when it come to luxury in Australia; indeed it competes with the best of the best on a global stage - “Luxury, serenity, visually spectacular scenery, wonderful food and fantastic service: our best travel experience in the world!” said one reader. And while we can’t see qualia relinquishing its title any time soon, it is heartening to see the list of runners-up gaining more depth every year. Best luxury hotel/resort/lodge RUNNERS UP Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley, NSW Saffire Freycinet, Tas Southern Ocean Lodge, Kangaroo Island, SA Park Hyatt Sydney, NSW Boutique hotel winner RUNNERS UP Halcyon House, NSW QT Sydney, NSW Art Series…

Getting there The Undara Lava Tubes are located 275 kilometres from Cairns via the Savannah Way. Staying there There are various accommodation options to choose from at Rosella Plains Station including the permanent Swag Tent Village, Pioneer Huts and the Railway Carriages. Playing there Choose from two lava tube tours: the two-hour Archway Explorer, operating all year round, and the two-hour Active Explorer, operating between April and September.The Wildlife at SunsetTour also operates year-round, and events such as Outback Rock and Blues, and Opera in the Outback take place in April and September respectively. undara.com.au…

JOHN TOWNER HAS STARTED EACH DAY the same way for almost 40 years. On the “best beach in Australia”, the septuagenarian tackles at least three waves – it’s the official minimum – before hitting the showers and then indulging with a cuppa at the local surf life saving club. “We just look out on the beach, watch the waves and try to solve the problems of the world,” Towner laughs. When he says ‘we’, Towner is referring to the Dingoes, a group of dedicated old salts who have assembled at the Gold Coast’s Currumbin Beach, bodyboards in hand, seven days a week, 365 days a year since 1982. They consider it a form of therapy – Towner insists each outing is worth two hours’ sleep – and there are no…

Getting there Townsville is an hour-and-45-minute flight from Brisbane. Direct flights on major airlines are also available from Sydney and Melbourne. Staying there Soak up the beauty of Cleveland Bay from one ofThe Ville’s many vantage points. the-ville.com.au Eating there JAM CORNER is a multi-award-winning restaurant, arguably best known for its crowd-pleasing breakfast menu. jamcorner.com.au MISS SONGS Enjoy delicious south-east Asian flavours in stylish surrounds at The Ville’s Chinese restaurant. the-ville.com.au/dine/miss-songs CITY LANE, the city’s creative laneway precinct, offers a range of dining options and urban buzz. citylane.com.au Playing there HOOCH & FELLOW is a cosy cocktail bar located on Flinders Street East, where Townsville’s nightlife is predominantly hosted. (07) 4721 0225 ADRENALIN DIVE’s knowledgeable crew will see you exploring the wonders of the Great Barrier Reef or SS Yongala.adrenalindive.com.au…