In the 1991 film Point Break, actor Keanu Reeves, playing undercover FBI agent Johnny Utah, learns how to surf as a way to infiltrate a gang of bank robber/surfers led by the enigmatic Bhodi, played by Patrick Swayze. Early in the movie, Keanu paddles out, drops in on another surfer and promptly gets assaulted by the guy, a local, who cuts Keanu’s leash and sends him packing to the beach. While the leash-cutting part is a bit of Hollywood fantasy — who surfs with a knife? — the altercation is a pretty accurate, if exaggerated, part of surfing. Fittingly, after punching Johnny Utah in the face, the local’s parting words are: Politeness counts, man.
Etiquette, localism and a longing for days gone by are things I’ve been thinking about a…