Innholdsfortegnelse for 2-Feb-2019 i Amateur Gardening

THIS is a great time of year to tackle those larger, trickier tasks that keep being shelved because something more important – or enjoyable – comes along. In our case, it was creating a stronger support for an overgrown clematis at the front of the house. For the past couple of years, the well-established plant, which is entwined with robust plastic mesh attached to the house wall by a Heath Robinsonesque scattering of screws and twisted wire, has been slowly sagging. It had got to the point where the front path was almost impassable and you risked losing an eye if you turned suddenly when walking past the clematis. Winter is a good time to take action, because the plant is dormant and easier to handle when its branches are…

1 The trickiest task was removing the clematis mesh from the wall and carefully lowering the whole plant to the ground without breaking its stems. 2 Now, one person needs to hold the trellis, while the other wields a spirit level to get it straight, and chalk to mark where it will be positioned. 3 Attach the supports first, aligning them to your perpendicular chalk marks and drilling through to make marks on the mortar. 4 To make sure the supports are firmly anchored to the wall, insert rawl plugs right into the mortar to take the screws. 5 Then fix the trellis to the supports, taking care you don’t drill through the nails that are holding its wooden slats in place! 6 Brush wood preservative over the nail and…

pH3.0-5.0: Very acid soil. Most plant nutrients will be easily washed away and phosphates will be locked in and unavailable to the plants. In soil with a pH lower than 4.7, organic matter won’t rot as well, resulting in fewer available nutrients. Add lime to raise the pH above 5 and to break up acid clay soil. pH 5.1-6: Acid soil that is perfect for ericaceous (lime-hating) plants, such as many heathers and rhododendrons. Add lime to make the soil palatable to other plants. pH 6.1-7: Moderately acid soil. A pH level of 6.5 is the best general-purpose soil for overall growing, and is perfect for bacteria and earthworm activity. pH 7.1-8.0: Alkaline soil. Phosphorus availability is down, and iron and manganese is less available, leading to chlorosis (leaves developing…

1 Cut back autumn-fruiting raspberries to the ground. If you are short of space, cut some back halfway to fruit before the others, giving you extended cropping. 2 Keep on top of weeding. Running a hoe through your borders once a week cuts off young seedlings, which can be left on the soil to rot down as a free green manure. 3 February can be a very cold month, so keep bird feeders and tables well stocked. Clean out your birdbath regularly to prevent disease, and keep it topped up with fresh water. 4 This is peak hellebore season. Keep yours looking their best by removing older foliage. This lets blooms shine and helps prevent disease spread by rain-splash.…

Homemade compost is manna for your plants and will save you loads of money. Material added to a healthy compost heap usually takes a few months to break down. It needs to be forked over fairly regularly and you need to add water during very dry spells when the composting process is likely to stop. Similarly, covering the heap with old carpet in winter traps the warmth and keeps things ticking over. Lift it occasionally so rain can get in. Finally, male urine is an excellent compost accelerator – so chaps, if you get caught short in the garden, you know what to do!…

THERE are a few optimistic shoots starting to poke their way through the soil in sheltered parts of the garden, but in the greenhouse all remains fairly quiet. The corms and tubers of tender gladioli and dahlias are happily resting in their trays of sand and compost under the staging, waiting for the warmer weather when they will start shooting and can be potted up or moved back into the borders. I’m checking them over every week or so to make sure they are all staying firm and healthy and haven’t succumbed to rotting or been attacked by pests. Watch out for unwanted visitors that have sought refuge undercover from the cold. Snails and aphids are the main problem, with scale insects appearing in late winter and early spring. Deal…

After sowing my carnations I checked the dianthus already in the garden. One had been invaded by a perennial weed that was growing up through the centre of the plant, with its roots entwined below. I dug both up and carefully separated plant and weed before composting the latter and re-planting the pink. The swift task was completed by firming in and watering, and hopefully the dianthus will continue to thrive and flower again this summer.…

1 Sow early variety potato sets one to a bucket in a frost-free light place, and you might be seeing new potatoes for Easter! 2 Bring tub-grown grapevines, peaches, apricots, blueberries, gooseberries and strawberries under cover, cool and bright, to force really early fruits. 3 Sow night-scented stock thinly in pots, under cover, for their evening perfume, adding a sprinkle of Virginian stock for prettiness. 4 Spread sharp sand on mossy, algae- and weed-infested stepping stones and paving, so they wear clean and are less slippery.…

Light In early February, levels are likely to be low, so clean all glass and other transparent materials with warm soapy water. Multidirectional light (provided by a greenhouse) is ideal. Warmth Excess warmth can result in weak, leggy growth. All veg seed has a minimum germination temperature stated on the packet. Aim for 2-3°C above this. Two days after emergence, move seedlings somewhere cooler. Moisture Too little moisture causes seeds to dry up, but excessively wet compost leads to rotting, especially at cooler temperatures. Keep compost just moist. A lot of condensation on the propagator lid implies over-watering!…

IF you’re like me you’ll be itching to start sowing veg. Cool temperatures and low light levels aren’t agreeable to squashes, sweetcorn and other tender veg. But if you’ve got a frost-free glasshouse, conservatory or porch, then fire up your electric propagator and give yourself permission to get excited! Hardy lettuce, pointed cabbages, beetroot, celery, parsley and celeriac can all be sown now. I sow the first three into modules, and the last three into seed trays for pricking out later. Set the propagator at a modest 15°C (59°F). Hardy lettuce, pointed cabbages and beetroot are cold-hardy, so can be set out into frames once large enough to transplant. Celery, celeriac and parsley are slow to germinate and grow, so sowing now is essential to gain a decent harvest. There,…

DON’T be fooled by the name: these aren’t actually nuts. The tiny tubers of the tiger nut sedge (Cyperus esculentus) have a soft, chewy texture and a flavour between almond and coconut. They can be roasted, dried and ground into flour, blended into a milky drink, or soaked overnight in water and eaten raw. A popular children’s snack in the 1950s, tiger nuts are being rediscovered, due to their nutritional benefits. High in vitamins C and E, they also contain significant amounts of protein, iron and magnesium. To grow them at home, order seeds now and sow into large modules. Transplant into a sizeable tub once large enough to handle, positioning them in a sunny spot and keeping well watered. The walnut-sized tubers develop over summer and can be harvested…

LIFTING, dividing and replanting the healthiest growth will give you a few extra plants, but if you need more, there’s an easy way to get them – and now is the ideal time to try it. Using sharp secateurs, cut off and remove a length of rhizome. Cut it into 1in (2-3cm) pieces, making sure that there’s a bud on each piece. Space the pieces out in a seed tray, half-filled with compost, fill up the tray with sand, water well and keep in a propagator at about 15ºC (59ºF) until shoots appear. Roots will also have developed, so pot up the pieces individually, then grow on and plant out when the young plants are growing well.…

Galanthus nivalis The common snowdrop is the most reliable for naturalising. Flowers are marked with green in January/February. Foliage has a grey/green tinge. Height 6in (15cm). Galanthus ‘Atkinsii’ The outer petals are elegant and longer than those of G. nivalis . A reliable choice. Attractive green markings. Reaches a height of 8in (20cm). Galanthus nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Flore Pleno’ One of the most reliable double types to create a drift. Naturalises well, which is surprising as they don’t make large bulbs. Honey-scented flowers. Height 6in (15cm). Galanthus elwesii Roger struggles to naturalise this snowdrop in Herefordshire, but it is praised by many others. The flowers are of a generous size with flared petals. Height 8in (20cm). Galanthus nivalis ‘S. Arnott’…

Lilium regale AGM White with yellow in the centre and purple flushes on the outside, the majestic, trumpet-shaped blooms of this popular classic will fill your garden with a glorious scent in midsummer. Flowers:Jun-Jul. H: 4ft (1.2m). L. henryi AGM Known as the tiger lily, this orange speckled variety originates from China and has petals that curve backwards. Once established, stems can have up to 20 flowers and will need support. Flowers: early Aug-Sept. H: 5ft (1 1/2m). ‘Nymph’ An Oriental that fits the bill if you’re after a tall variety. Perfect for a spot at the back of the border, where it will attract attention thanks to the scented yellow flowers, the petals of which feature pink stripes. Flowers: Jul-Aug. H: 6 1/2ft (2m). ‘Cocopa’…

Oriental lilies need acid soil, so if your garden is pH neutral or alkaline, use ericaceous compost in a container. When choosing bulbs, check that they are firm and show no signs of mould or disease. Plant in full sun, but keep bulbs shaded – mulch with gravel or grow other plants around them in borders. Lilies really don’t like waterlogged soil – make sure containers are deep and have good drainage. Plant at a depth of up to three times the height of the bulb, and spaced about 6in (15cm) apart. Once lilies come into growth, feed regularly with a high potassium feed. Taller varieties need staking, as the large flowers can make them top-heavy and prone to droop or break. Look out for lily beetles and get rid…

In borders Cannas The bold, paddle-shaped foliage of cannas works well with taller dahlias – as do the fiery flowers. Like dahlias, the roots of cannas are frost tender, so treat as tubers and lift and dry off for overwintering frost-free. H: 2-4 ½ ft (60cm-1.4m). Zinnias Double-flowered green zinnias make splendid companions for taller dahlias, especially the dark-leaved ‘Bishop’s Children’. Look for ‘Benary’s Giant Lime’ (left) now that the old favourite ‘Envy’ has deteriorated. H: 3ft (90cm). In pots Plecostachys Sometimes sold as Helichrysum microphyllum, P. serpyllifolia is a low, bushy, silver-leaved half-hardy that will nestle in among dwarf dahlias, setting off their colours nicely. Seen more in garden centres than catalogues. H: 1ft (30cm). Lobelia Supplies the one colour not seen in dahlias: blue. Cuttings-raised ‘Hot Pretty Heaven’…

Q Please could you identify this rose, planted in memory of my mother? Celia hart, Bournemouth A What a lovely way to remember your mother. I think it is ‘Chatsworth’, a floribunda voted Rose of the Year in 1995. Q Where can I get seeds of Chenopodium (Good King Henry)? Simon Gordon Clark, via email A It is stocked by Jekka’s Herb Farm, Shellards Lane, Alveston, Bristol BS35 3SY, ✆ 01454 418878, jekkasherbfarm.com They cost £2 a packet and grow well in a sunny spot in manured, free-draining soil Q Should I be worried about this ‘rust’ on the trunk of our willow tree? Denise Jackson, Tyne and Wear A The brownish rusty discoloration at the base of your willow is caused by a very common and harmless alga called…

AUTUMN-digging a vegetable bed, or the soil in a new garden flowerbed, offers a number of benefits. It puts air into the soil; incorporates compost and fertilisers; gives you the chance to remove the roots of perennial weeds; and improves the ‘tilth’ or texture of the soil. Light sandy soils and loams are easy to turn – if I gardened on heavy clay soil I’d seriously consider using Charles Dowding’s no-dig methods, but my sandy soil is a pleasure to work. Don’t get me wrong, it’s still hard digging the allotment, but I can achieve it in four or five sessions of an hour or so each, spread over a week, without experiencing unnecessary pain. First thing to consider is your tool. Most gardeners will buy one spade for all…

1 Define the spit of soil you want to lift by driving the blade into the left and right hand edges, then into the edge closest to you, the full depth of the blade. 2 With one hand, pull back then push down on the handle, bend your knees slightly, keep your back straight and slide your other hand down the shaft. 3 Keeping your back straight, lift the spade by straightening your legs, holding the spade firm and level. You can now drop the spit of soil where you want it to go. 4 Now define the outside edge of the next spit you want to lift, driving the spade in alongside the first spit, then the edge closest to you, bend your knees and lift.…

Anemone nemorosa Wood anemones are capricious, so selecting the right spot for their rhizomes is paramount. They love moist, humus-rich but well-drained banks in partial shade and reach 3-6in high (8-15cm). Galanthus elwesii Great for naturalising, this snowdrop is taller and has larger flowers than our native G. nivalis . The slender drooping blooms are honey-scented, with green markings on each inner tepal. Reaches 8in (20cm) high. Lily of the valley ( Convallaria majalis ) Essential for vasefuls of sweetly scented flowers in May. Plant rhizomes in humus-rich, moist but well-drained soil in sun or shade for colonies that reach 9in (23cm) high. Narcissus pseudonarcissus The simple beauty of wild daffodils is great for meadow plantings. Lent lilies may take a few years to settle but they naturalise…

On this day, Percy Thrower was born. He was the first household-name gardener, presenting gardening programmes on TV, starting in 1956 with the Gardening Club, then Gardeners’ World from 1969-1976. From the late 1950s until his death in 1986, Percy was AG’s star writer. He was also the resident gardening expert on the children’s programme Blue Peter. Percy grew up determined to be a head gardener like his father, who worked at Horwood House, Buckinghamshire, and worked under him for four years after leaving school. At the age of 18, in 1931, Percy became a journeyman gardener at the Royal Gardens, Windsor Castle, Berkshire, and was paid £1 a week.…

WHEN showing off, my tip is to work boasts casually into conversation. “This old thing?” I might posit, while slicing into a wheel of cheese. “It’s just a sword gifted when I accepted my knighthood.” Along with the tiddlywinks trophy and turnip prize, any interesting edibles offer excellent bragging rights, especially if they’re a challenge to grow. Top of the most-coveted list are citrus made fashionable by well-heeled Victorians, who then built elaborate orangeries to grow and show them off. My unheated greenhouse is far more modest, but it makes a good home for lemons, limes and oranges that are now fruiting better than ever, thanks to 2018’s halcyon summer. “The best are citrus made fashionable by Victorians” The most easy-going of these is the calamondin orange. However, rather like…

February, when buds start to swell, is the time to cut back Group 3 clematis that flower late in the season of growth produced the same year. Varieties include Clematis viticella, C. texensis and Clematis x durandii. If they are neglected they become a tangle of unproductive stems. Newly planted clematis should be cut back hard to just above a strong pair of leaf buds in their first spring after planting. This encourages multiple stems with potential of plenty of flowers. Established plants should be cut back to the lowest pair of buds 6-12in (15-30cm) above the soil.…

While your clematis is standing in a bowl of water to saturate its roots, dig a hole roughly 18in (45cm) away from the plant’s supporting wall or structure. The hole should be twice as wide as the rootball and at least 2in (5cm) deeper. Slide the plant from its container and check the roots are healthy, If any look congested or are starting to circle the rest, carefully tease them out so they will quest into the soil as they establish. Fork up the soil at the base of the plant and add some well-rotted manure, garden compost or mycorrhizal fungi, which help with the transference of water and nutrients from soil to the roots. Place the plant in the hole, so the top of the rootball is around 2in…

Real fires and wood burners are all the rage these days, and the ash they produce can be used to improve your garden soil. Wood ash is rich in potassium, which is essential for healthy blooms and good cropping. Scatter it around the roots of fruit trees and shrubs, and dig it in. Only do so on a dry day, as water will wash away the goodness. If rain persists, bag the cooled ash and store it in the dry until the weather gets better.…

OVER the New Year I had a massive clear-out of old paperwork and while some went straight into the recycling bin, a large amount was shredded and added to the compost heap. A good heap will run on a range of materials as long as they are well mixed. Grass clipping, green garden waste, woody prunings that have been cut or shredded, and even cardboard and paper can be incorporated. Things to leave off the heap include pet waste and cooked or raw meat, as these contaminate the mix. Unless they are forked over or turned regularly, and moisture is allowed to get into the heap, the composting process will either cease or the contents will turn into a smelly, slimy mess. Take care when turning the compost in open…

NEW Year always sees the media going on about resolutions, and this January there was added emphasis from Anna Newton’s book, An Edited Life: Simple Steps to Streamlining Your Life, at Work and Home. Sadly, nowhere did I find the answer to things arriving faster than I have time to deal with them! My office is filled with tumbling heaps of catalogues, files, papers and gardening ephemera, that all take time to sort and de-clutter. Not to mention the eight sheds overflowing with things that may come in useful sometime… or other. “Jobs done in the winter will have lasting effect” Going out into the garden is the best way to de-stress from all of this, because the pace of life is slower and jobs done in the winter will…

2: Close-Up Photography: RHS Wisley, Wisley Lane, Woking, Surrey GU23 6QB. 020 3176 5830/ 01483 224234, rhs.org.uk/gardens/wisley 2-3: Scarecrow-Making Weekend: RHS Garden Hyde Hall, Creephedge Lane, Rettendon, Chelmsford, Essex CM3 8ET. 0845 265 8071, rhs.org.uk/gardens/hydehall 2: Beginner’s Gardening – Basic Skills: RHS Garden Rosemoor, Great Torrington, Rosemoor, Torrington, Devon EX38 8PH. 0203 176 5830; rhs.org.uk/gardens/rosemoor 2-3: Snowdrop Weekend: Colesbourne Park, Colesbourne, Gloucestershire GL53 9NP. 01242 870264/01242 870567; colesbournegardens.org.uk 3: Spring Lawn Care: RHS Wisley, Wisley Lane, Woking, Surrey GU23 6QB. 020 3176 5830/ 01483 224234, rhs.org.uk/gardens/wisley 5: Herbs for Recipes, Remedies and More: Brimsmore Garden Centre, Tintinhull Road, Yeovil, Somerset, BA21 3NU. 01935 411000; thegardeneronline.co.uk 5: Brilliant Winter Colours and Scent for Your Garden: RHS Garden Rosemoor, Great Torrington, Rosemoor, Torrington, Devon EX38 8PH. 0203 176 5830; rhs.org.uk/gardens/rosemoor 6: Medicinal…

1 Sieve your seed compost into a pot or tray to remove lumps and debris that can hinder germination. 2 Water the compost, then flatten its surface so the seeds rest happily on it and don’t fall down any cracks. 3 Sow the seeds thinly for optimum growth and health, and cover with a fine layer of sieved compost. 4 Label and seal the pot in a plastic bag. Any cover should be removed when seedlings germinate. 5 Place the pot or tray of seeds on a warm, light windowsill out of direct sunlight. Germination should take two-four weeks.…

ONE of my favourite sights only happens on mild, damp days in June. Then the green woodpecker ( Picus viridis ) brings in a baby or two, almost as large as herself, and they begin to peck at the large anthill we have in our mini meadow, or strut about the lawn. Last year, it was too dry, so I wasn’t treated to the spectacle, but most years I catch sight of this feeding frenzy once or twice a year. In other years, I just see the beak-shaped holes in the top of the anthill. The juvenile woodpeckers are nearly always fully fledged, but with more grey, and I’ve never seen more than two youngsters, although each clutch of eggs usually contains up to seven completely white eggs. These are…

1 Vermiculite: This expanded clay material is a better cover for seed than compost. It’s lightweight, non-compacting and draws away excess water, deterring damping off disease. 2 Thermometer: A must if propagating a range of seeds. Chillies need at least 18°C (64°F), but lettuce only requires 8°C (46°F). Hot days and cold nights can be very detrimental to germination. 3 Warm water: It is possible to use cold water, but as soon as seeds imbibe and begin germination, they’re vulnerable to rotting. Therefore, always irrigate with room-temperature water.…

1 Early varieties such as ‘Amsterdam’ are cold-resistant and ideal for these sowings. Fill a 10in (25cm)-deep pot or polythene-lined crate with potting compost. 2 Water the container thoroughly, allow to drain and then sow your carrot seeds on top. Sprinkle them evenly to leave ¼-½in (60mm-1.3cm) spaces between each. 3 Cover over the seeds with a ¼in (60mm) layer of compost, water lightly and position in a well-lit spot at 10°C (50°F). With water, baby roots will be harvestable by April.…

BERGENIAS make two entirely different, but equally valuable, contributions to our gardens. The vast majority are evergreen, and their bold foliage is often richly coloured, especially in winter when its presence is so valuable. Then, in spring, there are sprays of vivid flowers. Spreading steadily at (or just below) the soil’s surface, woody rhizomes branch occasionally to form clumps –sometimes rather loose, sometimes tight and crowded. It is at the growing tips of the rhizomes that the foliage develops. The leaves are unashamedly bold: leathery, rich green, often glossy, they reach up to 14in (36cm) across. Their size and shape – though not the colour – explain why they’re known as elephant’s ears. They may be slightly pleated, with gently rounded lobes. However, it’s their winter colouring that is so…

BERGENIAS simply cry out for planting partners, and bulbs work particularly well. Snowdrops, crocuses and scillas, planted between the rhizomes, will peep through the leaves in spring; plant early daffodils in clumps behind. I suggest planting bulbs when you plant your bergenias. They’ll find their way through the foliage. Or you can use a narrow bulb planting trowel to slip them in later. Colourful winter dogwoods (cornus), especially those with variegated summer foliage (like ‘Hedgerows Gold’), work well with bergenias spread amongst them – a mix of dogwoods, bergenias and bulbs can be very striking. Cornus can also go in the background, as can skimmias and daphnes. In a low-maintenance ground cover situation, opt for ivy. Bergenias look great with variegated varieties snaking through their leaves.…

Plant under deciduous trees. Light will filter through when most needed in winter and the summer foliage will prevent the bulbs drying out. Plant bulbs deep to prevent them drying out. This also reduces the risk of squirrels digging them up. Choose a well-drained yet moist soil in dappled, deciduous shade. Divide successful clumps of snowdrops every three years. Avoid cutting back the foliage until it has gone completely brown in March or April. Be patient!…

Sow seeds individually in cells, this month or next, in a propagator – it’s best to start early as delayed sowing means delayed flowering. They germinate quickly at 21ºC, while 15ºC is fine, and 10ºC will work. If necessary, sow unheated in May. Grow on frost free (10ºC minimum is better) and move seedlings into 3½in (9cm) pots when their roots start to fill the cells. Plant out when all danger of frost has passed, and when roots start to emerge from the bottom of pots.…

Which coleus is best? Q I’ve taken a fancy to coleus and want to grow lots to fill the gaps in the garden in summer. Which do I go for, and how do I start them – from seed or plants? Maggie Gilchrist, Lancaster, Lancashire A You are not alone in embracing coleus, as these colourful foliage plants are enjoying a revival. They like warm summer weather and make excellent gap-fillers, growing quickly to 24in (60cm) high and wide, ideal for shading out weeds. Set them between exotic looking plants, where they’ll brighten the garden with toothed, often indented foliage in red, yellow, orange, brown, green, red, purple or pink. They are evergreen perennials in the mint tribe, although common names ‘flaming nettle’ and ‘painted nettle’ might suggest otherwise! Originally…

Do ✓ Wear suitable clothes. Strong boots with a stiff sole will protect your feet and prevent the back edge of the blade cutting into the arch of your foot. ✓ Choose a spade that’s light, strong and comfortable to use – try different sizes and shapes to find one that suits you. ✓ Use the right technique, keeping your back straight – especially when lifting – to prevent injury. ✓ Work slowly and methodically, resting regularly and scraping off soil sticking to the blade of the spade. Don’t ✗ Try to lift too big a spit of soil. Do remember that damp or wet soil is a lot heavier than dry soil. ✗ Dig randomly: instead, plan out the area you want to dig and tackle it systematically, so…

Greenhouse greatness Keen gardeners love a greenhouse. It enables us to start seeds when the weather is cold outside, grow exotic plants that would not survive outdoors, and overwinter plants that need extra protection when it’s cold. But the greenhouse itself has a fascinating history; let’s look at some of it. ■ A conservatory, traditionally, was a structure adjoining a large dwelling, built to ‘conserve’ tender plants. This is different to the early use of ‘greenhouses’, where tender plants would produce early crops, with some growing in prepared borders. Greek greenhouses We can thank the ancient Greeks for inventing the greenhouse – which, at the time, was probably little more than a coldframe-like structure covered in mica (an early crystalline glass substitute). Such structures were known as ‘forcing houses’ (see…

What’s flowering now in your garden? HERE’S a picture of a viburnum in my garden, bought as a 1ft (30cm) high plant from a local market. This variety, called ‘Gwenllian’, is so pretty, as the buds are pink and open to white. I cut springs of it to use in Christmas arrangements, and the scent of the flowers filled the whole room! Liz Crooks, Darlington, Co Durham MY winter honeysuckle (L. purpusii) is blooming, but not as abundant as most years due to it having ‘a light trim’ last year – by an over-enthusiastic helper. I admit, the bush is unremarkable in summer, so this year I’m planning to plant a clematis to grow through it for colour later on. C Trudgeon, Bodmin, Cornwall THIS winter jasmine (J. nudiflorum) greets…

ORANGES are the most challenging, as they require year-round warmth and sunshine. Lemons, kumquats and calamondins are easier but require winter cover and protection from cold winds. The surest way to get citrus to fruit is by growing in terracotta pots (which allow the roots to breathe) in John Innes No3 compost. Keep outside in the sun during summer, and bring into a cold greenhouse when the temperature drops below 5°C (41°F) in winter. Some gardeners wrap their citrus in situ with fleece, but this should be removed whenever temperatures rise – otherwise, the plants grow beneath the fleece and lose their hardiness.…

One of the most frequent questions we are asked in summer involves clematis wilt, which causes rapid wilting and can, in extreme cases, kill the plant. There are two varieties; one is caused by Calophoma clematidina, which usually affects large-flowered varieties and is caused by a fungus. The other attacks resistant hybrids and species clematis, and has environmental causes. Symptoms of both include black, wilted leaves and blackened stems. Reduce the risk of wilt by planting deep and mulching well – clematis like sunny growth and shady roots. Cut out wilted stems; the new growth will often appear from beneath the ground. Sterilise tools after use.…

FOR gardening success, and to avoid wasting money on plants that won’t thrive, you need to test your soil. This is particularly important if you have recently moved house and are planning lots of additions and changes to your plot. Our garden is extremely alkaline – we didn’t need to test it, because any undisturbed soil quickly turns white with chalk deposits brought up to the surface. This means that if we want to grow acid-loving plants such as camellia, azalea and blueberries, we need to do so in pots of ericaceous compost. However, chalk-loving plants such as foxgloves, hardy geraniums, clematis, cerinthe and aquilegias romp away, and we haven’t had any problems with clubroot in our brassicas. Be sure to monitor nutrient levels, as soils at the extreme ends…

1 Dig a trench, line it with well-rotted organic matter and add some horticultural sand for drainage. 2 Cut pieces of the previous year’s healthy growth into 6-12in (15-30cm) lengths with a sloping end. 3 Dip the flat bottom end in rooting compound as this will assist with the development of strong roots. 4 Insert the cuttings into the trench, infill and firm in. Water and leave the cuttings in situ until next autumn. 5 Alternatively, grow your cuttings in a large pot of seed and cuttings compost and place in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse until next autumn, when they will have rooted.…

1 Containers holding debris from summer flowers need emptying. I re-use salvaged potting compost for strong-growing woody subjects, after checking carefully for vine weevil larvae and adding slow-release fertiliser granules. 2 Old compost infected with vine weevil larvae should be spread out thinly on a clean surface for birds to clean. Robins love them and can be attracted to eat them from your hand, if you find enough. 3 It is a good time to either pot on or remove some old compost and repot with fresh for woody trees and shrubs in containers. 4 Don’t forget the lawn: during winter spells of mild, drying weather, cut the grass with mower blades set high. Miss this opportunity, and by spring the grass will be long and really hard work to…

CARNATIONS may be amongst the garden’s oldest and most traditional plants, but to my mind they are also some of the best. They have been favoured by horticulturists for centuries, and their story dates back to the Ancient Greeks when they were given their family name of Dianthus, which means ‘loved by the Gods’. Christian legend says they appeared in Christ’s footsteps when he carried the cross. They remain favourites in gardens worldwide, along with their close cousins, the pinks and sweet Williams. This week’s free seeds from Mr Fothergill’s are Carnation ‘Choice Double Mixed’. With their delicious scent and large, colourful blooms, they are a welcome addition to borders and will also give abundantly as cut flowers. They do best in a well-drained fertile spot with plenty of sunshine…

LITTLE tastes quite as good as your first tomatoes. Later ones may be bigger, sweeter or more aromatic, but those first fruits are just so rewarding. So how do you ensure the earliest tomatoes possible? First of all, they need to be under cover – a greenhouse is ideal, but it’s surprising how well you can succeed with a sunny windowsill or bay window. Obviously, it makes sense to grow a quick variety: this will be small fruited, as beefsteak and plum varieties generally take longer (and are more suited to outdoor culture, anyway). Many are excellent – I prefer ‘Sungold’, ‘Sakura’, and that old favourite ‘Gardener’s Delight’, which is a tad slower but has superb flavour. However, if your conditions are poor or you’re desperate for first fruits, grow…

FEBRUARY signifies the start of sowing season for vegetable gardeners. Few veg appreciate being sown in January, even indoors (large exhibition onions and hotter chilli peppers are the exceptions). But with window space at a premium, it’s impractical to wait until March to sow everything, so let’s get started now! Not all crops need sowing under cover; spinach, radish, spring onions, lettuce, beetroot and parsnips revel in outdoor sowings later in the season. However, expensive seeds (cucumbers, sweetcorn and melons) are best sown indoors, since germination is more successful in this protected environment, while basil, dill, brassicas, tomatoes and leeks all enjoy starting life under cover. Before any seed packets are opened, you must create a suitable propagation area. The essentials are adequate light, warmth and moisture (see panel, right).…

LEEKS in bechamel sauce, sautéed kale with nutmeg, Swiss chard with Roquefort and walnuts… have you been indulging yourself in some tantalising winter veg recipes these past few months? Hearty, robust veg such as these deserve good treatment in the kitchen – not least because their season will soon be coming to an end. These – and many other – veg are termed ‘biennial’, which means they grow one year and flower the next. As March commences and the weather warms up, the likes of leeks, parsnips, carrots, kale, winter cabbage and Brussels sprouts will throw up massive flower spikes. Woody and hard, these often run right through the centre of the harvestable parts, ruining their eating quality. So fire up your cooker and use them up now while you…

1 This is the ideal time to force rhubarb, ‘Witloof’ chicory and seakale. Exclude light using a large, weighted-down pot or dustbin. 2 Plant new fruit stock if the soil is workable . The plants then have ample time to settle in before any summer drought appears. 3 If you are a chilli, pepper or aubergine fan, start seed off now – these slow-to-mature veg need a head start over other crops. 4 Lay first and second early potato tubers in shallow trays in a well-lit spot to ‘chit’ them. Don ’t worry with 5 maincrops as they don ’t need it. Pot up a few herb divisions, moving them into the warmth of the kitchen or heated greenhouse. With water , they’ll give early shoots.…

Bergenias are easy to grow in partial shade or full sun, but perform best in rich conditions that are not waterlogged. Winter foliage varieties often develop their best colour when planted in open sites and in poor soil. Protection from early morning spring sun helps to prevent the flowers from being damaged by frost. Once established, plants will cope with dry shade, but will need watering until they have settled in. No special planting techniques are needed. Work in some weed-free soil improver before planting, and use to give a 2in (5cm) mulch after watering in.…

WHO wouldn’t want to pull back the curtains on a dreary February day and look out onto drifts of snowdrops? These fascinating plants are among the highlights of late winter. As with most things we crave, though, creating such a display is not easy. It’s for this reason that so many of us head out in late winter to admire the carpets of tiny bell flowers in open gardens. The first snowdrop display that I admired as a young gardener was at Kingston Lacy in Dorset. The sheets of snowdrops weave their way through the 40-acre garden. The plants have been naturalising slowly since the first snowdrops were planted on the estate more than a century ago. Snowdrops were collected by the wealthy in the past and they were distributed…

‘Salmon Star’ A dwarf Oriental lily with unusual pale salmon-coloured flowers that are speckled with orange. Needs acid soil, so fill your pot with ericaceous compost. Flowers: late Jul-Aug. H: 1 1/2ft (45cm). ‘Crimson Pixie’ Short on stature, big on impact – there’s nothing subtle about these flowers, which come in a standout shade of hot red. Perfect for any container on the patio. Flowers: Jun-Jul. H: 16in (40cm). ‘Tiny Nugget’ Small enough for the tiniest of spaces, so even if you only have room for a modest pot, you can enjoy the yellow flowers with their burgundy speckles. Flowers: late Jul-Aug. H: 14in (35cm). ‘Sunny Martinique’ A fairly new dwarf hybrid that features large and striking flowers on sturdy stems. The petals are blazing pink and have a powerful…

‘Bishop’s Children’ Descended from the legendary ‘Bishop of Llandaff’; prettily dissected bronze foliage sets off a long season’s production of single flowers, mainly in reds, oranges, yellows and gold. Good for borders and for cutting. H: 39in (1m). ‘Black Beauty’ This unique, single-flowered variety has blooms the colour of the chocolate cosmos, looking up at you from neat and compact plants. Ideal in containers, where their colour can be admired in close-up. H: 14in (35cm). ‘Dandy’ A bold blend of collarette types that feature a ring of shorter petals around the eye, often in a contrasting colour to the main petals. Flamboyant, with a wide range of colour combinations; good for cutting. H: 2ft (60cm). ‘Mignon’ The broad petals overlap to create full, yellow-eyed, single flowers on very prolific plants.…

What plants thrive in light shade? Q I am looking for a selection of small plants and annuals that will thrive in light shade – what would you recommend? Elizabeth Ransom, via email A There is a large selection of plants that will thrive in a lightly shaded area, including the following: ■ Annuals ■ Carpeting perennials Why didn’t my crocuses bloom? Q Last autumn, I planted some saffron crocuses, which flowered well, and left them in a windowbox. This year, they had no flowers – why, and what should I do? Jean Marsden, Huntingdon A I am sorry your saffron crocuses failed to flower. The fact that they did so in their first year indicates that the corms failed to swell to blossoming size before summer. They probably needed…

‘Balcenna’ (‘Henna’) These deeply toothed leaves are red beneath and towards the centre, overlaid with greenish yellow. Available as cuttings-raised plants. ‘Bronze Pagoda’ Ideal for a hot border, the leaves are rich orange-red, edged with a generous margin of yellow. Plants are raised from cuttings. ‘Chocolate Covered Cherry’ Grown from seed, these gorgeous plants have rich, cherry red leaves, edged with a deeper red and a fine margin of lime green. ‘Combat’ A real ‘Joseph’s Coat’ of a coleus, with markings of crimson, green, cream and yellow. Available as cuttings-raised plants.…

Heavy soil: Clay soils made up of fine, densely packed mineral particles that hold water. Light soil: Sandy and coarse-grained or loam soils. Some have a high organic matter content, but all are free-draining. Spit: The mound of earth you lift on the blade of a spade thrust vertically into the soil. Digging spade: Spade with a lightly curved blade, around 7 x 11 1/2in (18 x 29cm) with a sharp cutting edge, and between 40in (102cm) standard, and 44in (112cm) long. Border spade: Same as the digging spade but a smaller blade, typically 61/2 x 9 1/2in (17 x 24cm). Devon spade: Curved, pointed blade, long straight shaft, no handle. Single digging: Lifting one spit of soil and turning it back into the hole it came out of. Double…

Make sure the soil is loosened and nourished with organic matter well ahead of delivery. Unpack promptly, and if not planting immediately, store cool with tops light, open and airy, and the roots gently enclosed and moist. Plant as soon as possible. Observe a colour change from pale to deep green on the stems, and plant so the pale part is buried and the greenest bit is above ground. Plant single bulbs 4in (10cm) apart, or set them in twos and threes, with 5-6in (13-15cm) between them. Keep moist should there be a sudden spring drought.…

Peckish Complete Seed & Nut Mix is a unique blend that’s packed with nutrition. It contains 12 ingredients, including kibbled wheat, red millet, sunflower hearts and oyster shell grit, and each ingredient has been specifically chosen for its high energy content and to encourage the widest variety of birds into your garden. The mix contains Calvita, a natural nutrient supplement containing calcium and vitamins to help improve the overall health of birds. We have two 2kg packs of Peckish Complete Seed & Nut Mix to give away, each worth £4.99. See below for details of how to enter the prize draw. How to enter Send your name and address on the back of a postcard to Peckish Complete Seed & Nut Mix Draw (2 February), Amateur Gardening, Pinehurst 2, Pinehurst…

I FEEL obliged to challenge A Giscomb’s comments (AG, 5 Jan 2019) about the use of glyphosate. Like food additives and drugs, agrochemicals (including all components in a formulation) are strictly controlled by national bodies. These bodies demand extensive safety data (costing millions). Even when licensed, should evidence of harm be found, the license can be altered or revoked. Many chemicals once used by gardeners are now banned, sometimes just because of the cost of proving safety. The bar is set very high. There is no such thing as absolute safety – only a degree of risk. This is assessed not only on scientific, but also socioeconomic and political grounds. Thus, it is not surprising that national bodies sometimes disagree. The result of one highly dubious American court judgement is…