Innholdsfortegnelse for 24-Nov-2018 i Amateur Gardening

MOST deciduous trees will need to be pruned during the dormant days of autumn and winter, once all or most of their leaves have dropped. At this time of year, their sap has retreated down into the very core of the trunk, meaning they shouldn’t ‘bleed’ as profusely as at other times of the year. However, certain trees, including plum, cherry, apricot, almonds, and rhododendron, are susceptible to the fungal disease silver leaf, which releases spores between September and May. These spores can infect fresh pruning wounds, so vulnerable trees should be pruned between early and mid-summer. Evergreens should also be left alone until later in spring, to avoid damage by frost. The idea of pruning is to keep the tree or shrub healthy and in good shape; an open…

When a shrub or tree has been neglected for several years, its branches become congested and flowering and fruiting decrease. This is the time for renovation pruning, or ‘hard pruning’. Do this in winter and the plant will return to growth in spring, though you may sacrifice flowers for the first year or so afterwards. With most shrubs you can be quite brutal and cut the branches right back to the base of the trunk. Others, such as witch hazel, acers and magnolia, may need to be renovated over two or three years to keep them healthy.…

The Remarkable Case of Dr Ward – And Other Amazing Gardening Innovations We all love to garden, but have you ever wondered when it all started? This fascinating book by Abigail Willis, beautifully illustrated by Dave Hopkins, provides all the answers. A rollicking potted history of horticulture from the Roman Empire to the inspired innovators of the 19th century, this is one book to dip into and enjoy at your leisure (Laurence King, £12.99). Creative Products sharpening tool Tool Sharp from Creative Products is an all-in-one multi-purpose sharpener suitable for use on most garden tools, from secateurs to shears. It can be used left or right-handed, and the handle contains a tube of anti-rust oil and an applicator sponge (£7.99). Peckish Winter Warmer bird feeder feeder If you know someone…

THE greenhouse has been looking sad and barren in recent weeks, which is a complete contrast to the summer months when it was packed with chilli plants and growbags of healthy tomato plants. But these have long gone, so it’s time to clean out the greenhouse and make sure it is free of pests and problems that might affect overwintering tender plants. Start by taking everything out of the greenhouse. If it is a cold day and you have tender plants already in there, put them somewhere sheltered, wrapped in fleece, for the duration of the cleaning. Wash down the windows and roof, inside and out, with hot soapy water or a solution of Jeyes Fluid. This gets rid of grime and lets overwintering plants make the most of the…

IF you have a sandy, stony or chalky soil, you’re unlikely to know what bad drainage is unless your garden is a very low-lying site. With a loam you’re probably fine. But with clay soil, it’s a pound to a penny you’ll have drainage problems – in other words, if you dig a hole then any water collected in it will sit there for weeks. This is a curse – however, such heavy clay soils, although naturally badly drained, are also the richest in minerals. The problem is not the water itself, but that this is stagnant and waterlogs roots, which then die as there’s not enough oxygen in it. Roots need air to breathe, and standing in water drowns them. Good drainage means that rain does not pool and…

1 Dig a hole slightly wider and 2in (5cm) deeper than the roots, and fork in well-rotted compost or manure. 2 Tease out any circling container roots and make sure the hole can accommodate bare roots comfortably. 3 Plant the rootball lower than the top of the soil to encourage more shoots. Infill with soil and compost. 4 Tread around the shrub to support the plant, firm the soil and squeeze out any air pockets. 5 Water well and add a layer of mulch to insulate the roots, suppress weeds and retain moisture. 6 Cut the stems right back. You may not get much fruit next year, but the plant will be more robust.…

DID your grapevines reward you with plenty of lush foliage, gorgeous autumn leaf colour and – most importantly – dozens of bunches of grapes in summer? For most vine owners, the answer will be a resounding ‘yes’, since grapes are notoriously vigorous. But with the chill of late November, the leaves will have fallen and you’re probably now left with a bare-looking vine. While it may appear a little sad, don’t be fooled: this is the perfect time to jump in with secateurs and keep that vigorous growth in shape. Vines don’t like being pruned between Christmas and bud burst, because they bleed sap heavily at that time from their pruning wounds. So get in there now, give your plant a revamp, and then just dream of all those abundant…

MY casserole dish is certainly getting an airing with this temperature dip! I just love a hearty stew, and I always add at least three bay leaves to the pot. Bay is a delicious evergreen herb that doesn’t just get used for savoury dishes – have you ever tried bay leaf panna cotta? I’ve got two bay trees trained as ‘standards’ like a lollipop, with a round top and bare stem. For most of the year, they sit either side of our porch, but as soon as the frosty weather bites down I move them. It’s not that the trees aren’t hardy: it’s just that the exposed stems can be physically damaged by frost. Prolonged freezing can cause the trunk’s bark to peel away. So I suggest that you either…

IF there’s one thing you most definitely get with cotoneasters, it’s choice. Yes, I know, the flowers are almost always white and the berries are usually red. But they range in height from a few inches to the size of small trees; they can be neat and compact or widely spreading; they can be bushy, mounding, weeping or ground covering – or tall and imposing. Deciduous or evergreen, with large or small foliage, there are cotoneaster varieties for containers, rock gardens, raised beds, mixed borders, hedges and for growing as bold specimens. A few are variegated. Soil and situation? Well, on the whole they are not fussy. “So what’s the catch?” I hear you ask. The truth is that there are one or two drawbacks, but these are easily avoided.…

THERE are five cotoneaster species – including some of the most popular and widely grown – that have become a problem in our countryside. These five species (C. bullatus, C. horizontalis, C. integrifolius, C. microphyllus and C. simonsii) have escaped from gardens into the wild, where they have become established and are, increasingly, guilty of smothering native plants. In some cases rare native species in nature reserves have come under threat. This is a particular problem on dry, sunny sites on limestone soils. And with their extensive root systems, the plants can be very difficult (and expensive) to remove. It is now illegal to allow these five species to escape from your garden. And since it’s impractical to prevent birds from eating the berries and flying off, in effect, that…

DOGWOODS may boast the most vibrant stems around, but the colour loses its lustre as plants mature. As a result, generations of gardeners have taken their secateurs to plants in early spring. The time-honoured way of pruning is to cut every stem to just above ground level, leaving a low, stubby framework. While this works in the short term by encouraging a flush of colourful new shoots and keeping shrubs compact, hard pruning annually can weaken plants over time. This reduces vigour, makes them more vulnerable to pests and diseases, and reduces their lifespan in the garden. A kinder way of treating cornus is to selectively remove a third of the older branches between late February and early March. This will still encourage lots of new stems to grow from…

Small gardens ‘Dainty Bess’ Scented silver-pink single flowers with maroon stamens bloom above dark-green leaves. An adorable hybrid tea, bred in 1925, it attracts wildlife and flowers repeatedly between June and November. Full sun. H: 3ft (90cm). Roald Dahl Introduced in 2016, this scented David Austin shrub rose is laden with apricot-amber rosettes for months. Meanwhile, £2.50 from the sale of each goes to the late author’s Marvellous Children’s Charity. Sun or semi-shade. H: 39in (1m). Hot Chocolate AGM This decadent floribunda will keep producing its fragrant flowers into October. The petals are wonderful shades of coral, russet and fox-pink, adding drama and colour to a border. Full sun. H: 3ft (90cm). Semi-shade Lochinvar Traditionally scented, romantic powder-pink rosettes are produced freely by this charming shrub rose. Has the characteristics…

Help, my rose has… Orange and black dots This is rose rust. Remove and destroy infected leaves to prevent it spreading. Yellow leaves with dark dots Your rose has black spot (above). Remove and destroy infected leaves and treat with fungicide or eco-friendly neem oil. Unopened brown flower buds Known as balling, this affects certain roses in wet summers. Give those that are susceptible elbow room and prune well – both are said to help prevent the problem. Powdery white patches You’ve got powdery mildew. It is exacerbated by poor air flow and lack of moisture, so water well in drought and ensure air moves freely.…

‘Eye Catcher’ Pure-white flowers are boldly marked with navy-blue streaks on the upper petals, and navy spots and a yellow flash on the lower petals. Recently introduced, it tends to be more expensive than others, but definitely warrants a bit of a splurge. H: 6in (15cm). ‘Katharine Hodgkin’ Unusual in the subtlety of its colouring. The large broad-petalled flowers are a delightful combination of Mediterranean Sea-blue and yellowish-green, with slate-blue veins and deep ocean-blue spots. One for viewing up close. H: 6in (15cm). ‘Natascha’ Has flowers in a lovely subtle shade of ice-white – a ghostly white that is ‘blushed’ with pale-blue – featuring greenish-blue veins and a sunny-yellow flash on each of the lower petals. Another option for fans of fragrance, the scent is strong – making it a…

Draper Rolling Lawn Aerator £28.58 (offer price £25.96) 01594 560200 for stockists greenkey-garden.co.uk Features Twenty-four 1 1/2iin (34mm) metal spikes mounted on metal bars fixed to plastic wheels, making a drum 18in (45cm) wide. Three-piece tubular-steel handle with rubber grip. Overall length 59in (150cm). Simple assembly required. Performance The handle needs putting together with screws and bolting to the roller. Very straightforward. Spikes on the roller are shorter than on the Garland roller. There’s no crossbar on the handle. I found it worked best using one foot on the roller frame while pushing forward on the handle, moving in a series of short hops. Like this, the spikes gave good penetration and left small neat holes. The roller is easy to clean with a hose, but tricky to…

With a combination of high-energy seeds and grains, Peckish Winter Warmer Seed mix will provide a variety of garden birds with the energy they need when they need it most. Complete with ready-to-use seed mix feeder, all you have to do is unscrew the base, remove the seal and hang it on a tree or feeding station. There’s no mess and no fuss. We have three Peckish Winter Warmer seed mix feeders to give away, each worth £4.99. See below for details of how to enter the prize draw. How to enter Send your name and address on the back of a postcard to Peckish Winter Warmer Draw (24 November), Amateur Gardening, Pinehurst 2, Pinehurst Road, Farnborough, Hampshire GU14 7BF. Or you can email your details to ag_giveaway@ti-media.com, heading the…

‘Cascade Delight’ A late summer variety that crops from early July to early August, with plenty of large, sweet fruits. Good resistance to root rot, and tolerates wetter soils. ‘All Gold’ Although I do prefer my raspberries red, this yellow-fruiting autumn variety is sweet and tasty. Crops from July to October. ‘Malling Jewel’ Early summer variety with good resistance to root rot disease and virus. Its large, dark berries are firm and flavoursome. Crops from late June to late July. ‘Polka’ This strong autumn fruiter will bear an abundance of exceptionally large, aromatic berries from mid-July to October.…

I WAS interested in your article about wild roses (AG, 27 October). Of all the plants in our garden, the Scottish burnet rose (Rosa pimpinellifolia, also known as R. spinosissima) has long been a favourite. I have taken offshoots with me and given many away each time we moved. This group of roses is unsurpassed for hardiness and resilience, and they produce masses of fragrant small roses in May and June. The foliage is fine and the compact growth makes them ideally suited as an informal hedge in any cottage garden. We also have R.s. ‘Mary, Queen of Scots’, double yellow and white burnet roses and R. ‘Dunwich Rose’. Few nurseries stock these roses, but they are worthy of greater recognition. I once lived in the Somerset village of Farmborough,…

I WRITE regarding Ruth Hayes’ article on ‘A natural autumn’ and her suggestion that we use freshly milled molehills to pot up plants and add to borders. I come from a farming family and we always maintain that molehill soil is no good and will not grow anything. Although it is a lovely texture, nothing grows in them for 10 months or more, not even grass or weeds. So beware when potting up your favourite plants with molehill soil – they will not thrive. Mrs G Evans, Llangollen Wendy says What an interesting observation. Many people use the excavated molehill soil in their compost mix. Please tell us your experiences.…

ALL the best people change names… Rachel Markle became Meghan, rap star Snoop Dogg is Snoop Lion and Kanye West, in case you forget, only answers to ‘Ye’! Botanists are keeping up with Ye and his Kardashian kin by playing tunes with ever more Latin names, especially those of our most loved late-autumn flowers. Symphyotrichum, for example, are the Michaelmas daisies formally known as ‘aster’. And you may ask why re-christen them at all when the name didn’t need fixing? But the thing is, it did… According to botanists, when the aster family was created it was bundled together for expediency – as opposed to accuracy – with hundreds of diverse flowers clustered into a clan that misrepresents its true diversity. “Not all changes are for the worst” Although the…

1 Cut away strong shoots longer than 6in (15cm) that are growing in towards the centre of the tree. 2 Remove the ends of shoots that are growing close together and becoming congested in the centre of the tree. 3 The aim is to create an airy and attractive skeleton of branches that won’t become congested when the tree is in leaf. 4 Shorten the growth on each leading branch by one third, cutting it back to a healthy, outward-facing bud.…

1 If a branch is growing in the wrong direction and spoiling the overall shape of the tree, remove it from its base. 2 Take down the branch in easily manageable stages, making sure you are standing on a secure and stable ladder or platform. 3 With large branches, start by making an undercut followed by an overcut above it to create a clean break. 4 Don’t cut the branch right against the trunk.as the collar where they meet is where the tree will heal the best.…

THERE is an old adage that states, ‘Don’t stand when you can sit and don’t sit when you can lie down!’ While it is difficult to garden from the horizontal, there are lots of plant-cultivating tasks we can complete sitting down. I find myself doing more sitting at our picnic table, which is on hardstanding close to the back door (see videos on sungardening.co.uk). Sowing seeds, taking cuttings, deadheading container plants, repotting, planting bulbs, cleaning lifted bulbs and collected seeds can all be done sitting down. “Some of the pots are placed in shallow plastic trays” Many of the outdoor tables and chairs in gardens stand unused for most of the year, and mine is now more than a workstation as it is also staging for pot-grown plants. Bringing alpine…

Good ventilation and frost protection will help to keep tender plants healthy in the greenhouse over winter. Open doors, windows and vents on warmer days, closing them when the sun sets. If you don’t have a heater, drape fleece over plants at night, removing it when the temperature rises to avoid trapping condensation that may cause rots and fungal problems. Make sure plants aren’t touching, to maintain a good airflow between them, and pinch out any growing tips and flower buds. Water sparingly. Watch out for pests and deal with them immediately.…

1 Re-fill bird baths with fresh water, especially on frozen mornings, so that birds can have a drink and clean, and remember to wash out weekly. 2 Get more bird boxes – hang these, and clean out the old ones, ready for prospective lodgers in the new year. 3 Dig carrots and leeks now, and keep in a plastic bag or case of sand or spent potting compost in the shed, in case the ground freezes. 4 Collect garden canes and store them somewhere really dry such as in a roof-space, where they’ll keep better.…

If you haven’t already cut back your harvested summer-fruiting raspberry canes, do so now. Cut the old stems right back down to ground level and tie in the new canes for fruiting next summer. Autumn-fruiting raspberries should be left lone until February, when they are cut right back. If you don’t have much space, an alternative suggestion is to plant only autumn-fruiting varieties, such as ‘Autumn Treasure’ or ‘Joan J’ and, once they are established, cut some canes back by half after flowering. The rest can be levelled in February as usual, but the semi-pruned plants will fruit earlier, giving you an extended cropping season.…

1 If your grapevine is still young (less than five years old), the main task will be to tie in the new growth to create a strong framework. Train healthy stems up pergolas, along fencing or trelliswork. Just be careful when re-positioning stems as they can be brittle. 2 For established indoor and outdoor vines, your objective is to cut back a major proportion of this year’s growth, right back to the main framework. It’s OK to be quite ruthless – all the new growth can be cut back to a couple of buds. It’s a pretty satisfying job. 3 An extra step for vines growing under glass is to carefully scrape off the flaky outer bark of the framework stems – a blunt garden knife is ideal for this.…

I LOVE chard, and wouldn’t be without it in my garden in winter. Of course, you can sow drills in spring and pick the young leaves for salads, but I prefer to make a sowing in early August so that I can pull the robust, mature leaves from October right through until it runs to seed in May. This biennial veg is related to beetroot, and you can certainly see (and taste) the similarities in the red-stemmed varieties (the milder tasting ‘Fantasy’ is my favourite). The almost earthy taste endorses the fact that this veg is nutrient-packed. If your energy levels are flagging at all then get some on your plate – the iron and magnesium it contains is sure to perk you up! Chard leaves are excellent shredded, then…

Container-grown cotoneasters can be planted at any time, so long as the soil is not frozen or waterlogged. Happy in most soils, evergreens in particular will tolerate shade. However, they will flower and fruit more prolifically when given a sunny spot. Newly planted evergreen types will lose moisture through their foliage in winter. As a result, they may need watering in dry spells, when deciduous varieties would not. Cotoneasters are long-lived plants, so prepare as broad a planting area as possible into which the roots can grow.…

IN recent years C. horizontalis, that’s the one with the herringbone branch structure, has been attacked by two moth caterpillars that can cause serious damage. Leaves curl up and turn brown, the branches are covered by grey silk webbing (a little like a dense spider’s web) and the plant becomes very unsightly. Two moth caterpillars are to blame, but they can be eradicated by general insecticides such as Bug Clear Gun for Fruit and Veg (that’s right – the RHS recommends this fruit and veg treatment) or Defenders Bug Killer.…

Salix daphnoides The violet willow boasts dramatic purplish shoots covered with a white dusty bloom. It is best hard pruned to leave a 4ft (1.2m) clump of upright stems. Cornus sanguinea ‘Winter Beauty’ This dogwood is considered by many to be the best for winter colour thanks to its glossy-yellow stems that turn red towards the tips. It can grow to around 6ft (1.8m). Sarcococca confusa Forming a 6ft (1.8m) tall rounded bush, Christmas box produces clusters of scented, spidery white flowers that are displayed against wavy oval leaves. Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Orange Peel’ In midwinter, the branches of this 13ft (4m) high by 10ft (3m) wide shrub are covered in small clusters of light-orange flowers that smell like Seville orange marmalade.…

Is double- flowering rare in a datura? Q My datura flowered well this summer and is now having a second burst, even though its leaves fell off. Is this normal? Hugo Adams, Weston-Super-Mare, Somerset A What a picture your datura must have been! These plants flower either during spring or during late summer and well into autumn, so flowers now are not impossible. You must be taking exactly the right care of your plant, but I suspect the warm and sunny summer and early autumn have helped. The normal advice for pruning is to do as little as possible, because although a datura can cope with hard pruning, it can affect flowering. The exception to this rule is if the plant is to be moved somewhere warm for the winter…

Pyracanthas – multi-purpose plants Firethorns, or pyracanthas, are grown for their decorative flowers and vibrant autumn berries that are frequently held in dense clusters. Firethorns make great wall plants (but they’re not climbers!), and they’re perfect for boundaries in that they have quite vicious thorns that do a wonderful job of deterring trespassers. These merits make them a good, green, wildlife-friendly alternative to fences and walls. As they are all looking their best right now, with their masses of berries in bright fiery hues, let’s look at some of the stories surrounding them. • Pyracantha comes from the Greek pyr, meaning ‘fire’, and akanthus meaning ‘a thorn’– hence ‘firethorn’. Cyanide jelly Pyracantha berries may be consumed by humans – but they are mildly poisonous as their seeds contain tiny doses…

What’s wrong with my fern? Q My large and beautiful maidenhair fern is unwell, with yellow-brown fronds. There might be some tiny black flies on the fronds, but I don’t want to spray and risk harming the fern. What other indoor ferns do you recommend? Margaret Stoll, Brighton, East Sussex A Maidenhair ferns make graceful indoor plants, usually represented by the Delta maidenhair fern (Adiantum raddianum) or the Venus hair fern (A. capillus-veneris). While small, they are rather needy as the roots are prone to drying out, but once in pots 6-9in (15-23cm) across, long-lived specimens can reach 12-24in (30-60cm) high and 30in (76cm) wide. Examine the plant using a hand lens to reveal whether there is a pest present or if the fern just needs better nurturing. There is…

LATE-SEASON michaelmas daisies, Hylotelephium (sedum) and Hesperantha require lifting and dividing every few years – otherwise, the clumps die out. Traditionally this is a job for late winter, just as growth begins. But it can be done now, especially if the tops look tired and the flowers are over. Use a spade to dig up the clumps and then tear into saucer-sized sections using two back-to-back forks. Tearing in this way might seem brutal, but it’s kinder as more roots are left intact than they would be if the clumps got chopped up with a spade or knife.…

IT’S that time of year when we gardeners look at our kit and think ‘yep, I could do with a new one of those…’ or are stumped about what to buy green-fingered family and friends. On the next three pages, I have selected a number of gifts I think any gardener would be thrilled to receive, avoiding the pitfalls of ‘novelty’ gifts and gimmicks. Hopefully you will find something here to give to a loved one – or maybe, there’s something you’d like too (in which case, draw a ring around it and leave the magazine open on that particular page in a prominent place for all to see…) WOLF-Garten Mini mini tool gift set/multi-tool gift set WOLF-Garten has some great gift sets for new gardeners or those wanting to…

1 Choose heavy or squat pots with a wide base for larger plants to prevent high winds blowing them over or, worse, off the table. 2 Slugs and snails are much less of a problem several feet up in the air, just as long as you don’t introduce them in formerly grounded pots. 3 Pots of herbs will revel in the warmth and sunlight, as well as being close to the back door for harvesting. 4 In winter, pots standing high and unprotected will freeze harder than those at ground level and close to house walls. However, a good freezing will suit some alpines.…

1 Remove all the old plant material and other debris from the floor and working surfaces, and compost or bin it accordingly. 2 Use a plastic plant label to get between the panes of glass and the greenhouse frame to remove trapped debris. 3 Remove old greenhouse border soil and replace with new, plus added compost and a few handfuls of chicken manure pellets. 4 Wipe down all windows and surfaces with warm disinfectant or Jeyes Fluid, letting it dry properly before closing greenhouse doors and windows.…

AUTUMN is the optimum time for planting container-grown and bare-root blackcurrant bushes so they are ready to go next spring. Blackcurrants are easygoing plants, happiest in a sheltered sunny spot where the soil is fertile and free draining. They are also more tolerant of heavy clay soils than other soft fruits. Two years ago I took some hardwood cuttings from an existing blackcurrant bush. I potted them up and they have grown well so I am planting them out. Before planting, dig over and weed the soil, and then dig in lots of well-rotted compost or manure. A handful of Growmore or chicken manure pellets will also give it a boost. Make sure there is plenty of space between bushes to increase airflow and reduce the risk of gooseberry mildew,…

I SPEND a lot of my time talking to gardening societies about my eco-friendly garden. The picture that causes a sharp intake of breath from the audience is the one of the wasp. It’s probably the most hated creature, after the slug, and it’s so unfair because wasps are meat-eating bees. For most of the year, they’re collecting small wriggly things from your garden to take back to their nest, so they’re doing you a great service. A single colony of social wasps can remove several kilograms of insect pests such as aphids and caterpillars over a summer, and wasps pollinate a wide range of plants. Wasps have a sweet tooth because when they feed the larvae in the nest, they’re rewarded by a sugary droplet of waste material. Once…

HAVING got up to speed on fruit tree rootstocks, pollination and varieties in recent weeks, there’s one thing left to consider. Fruit trees (and to a lesser extent, cane and bush fruits) can be trained into a variety of shapes. Bear in mind that the growth habit of a specific crop affects the shape it can be trained into (cherries make good fans, but not cordons). Some shapes create huge plants – many make smaller ones. So what options are available? ‘Open-centred’, lollipop-shaped apples, cherries and pears are great for larger plots. Free-standing plums grow well as large ‘pyramids’, where the tree has one strong, upright central stem, plus four-six main side branches. If you have a wall or fence, ‘fans’ are a great way to train cherries, nectarines, peaches,…

Annual mulching in autumn helps to keep down weeds and adds nutrients. On poor soil apply a general fertiliser (such as Growmore or blood, fish and bone) annually, to keep growth strong. Usually, no formative pruning is needed as the plants branch naturally. Often, the only pruning necessary is to remove shoots that extend beyond the main outline of the plant. Ground-covering species should have any occasional wayward upright-growing shoots cut out towards the base Pegging down shoots will encourage rooting and help create a more dense covering of foliage.…

FEW gardens look or even smell good in winter. The best that many have to offer on the visual front is an expanse of bare soil or a forlorn evergreen in a distant corner, while damp air, soggy surfaces and decaying plant matter combine to make a pungent aroma that results in some keeping the back door firmly shut until spring. Yet our gardens don’t have to look drab over the months to come. A great way of injecting some life is to introduce a few seasonal shrubs, whether that’s in beds, in mixed borders or as specimens within a lawn. Compact types will thrive in containers, either on their own or as part of an arrangement. Some shrubs provide a single memorable highlight thanks to their textured bark, brightly…

Salvia microphylla ‘Cerro Potosí’ AGM Bright shocking-pink flowers are produced over a long period into late autumn. What’s more, salvias are said to reduce pests and diseases when planted with roses. Requires staking. Full sun. H: 28in (70cm). Digitalis purpurea ‘Sutton’s Apricot’ A lovely foxglove with peach-pink flowers. Be warned: it will self-seed, occasionally reverting to the wild pink form. Remove any seedlings with reddish stems if you only want the peach-pink blooms. H: 39in-5ft (1-1 ½ m). Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’ Bees adore the violet-blue flowers of this catmint, which forms clouds of blue and silver in borders and fills the air with the lemony scent of its aromatic foliage. Cats love it, too. Full sun. H: 3ft (90cm).…

Flowers I. unguicularis Sweetly scented, 3in (7cm) pale lilac-blue flowers with yellow flashes are carried on white tubes for many months. The easiest to find in nurseries, Algerian iris can be slow to establish but the results are worth the wait. H: 6in (15cm). I. unguicularis ‘Peloponnese Snow’ Pure-white flowers – with blue veins towards the base of the petals and a vivid-orange flash – are held above, rather than among, the leaves. Very striking, and more vigorous than previous white varieties. H: 10in (25cm). I. unguicularis ‘Mary Barnard’ AGM Deep purplish-blue flowers, with a bright golden flash on each petal. The darkest of all the varieties, it is at its peak in February. Has unusually narrow leaves so the flowers are shown off well. H:…

IF grass growth on your lawn is patchy and uneven, especially where there has been heavy footfall, it will benefit from aerating. It’s a good idea to scarify first, and follow aeration with a top dressing of John Innes No3 or a similar soil-based compost brushed into the holes. You can aerate your lawn by ‘spiking’ it with a garden fork, but it’s a slow job. Tools to help include strap-on sandals with spiked soles, rollers covered in spikes and ‘hollow-tine’ aerators that lift a plug of soil out of the lawn to allow deep penetration of air. Aerate when the soil is deeply moist – autumn and spring are the ideal times. All these processes will benefit your lawn, but try to make sure that when you make holes…

21 November 1936 The first TV gardening programme, called In Your Garden with CH Middleton, was broadcast live from a purpose-built plot at Alexandra Palace in London. 23 November 1808 Charles Babington, botanist, was born. In 1829 he argued with Charles Darwin about who should buy the best beetle specimens from a dealer. Allium babingtonii (pictured) is named after him. 24 November 1859 They said Charles Darwin first published his seminal work On the Origin of Species on this date. 25 November 1871 The Garden, a magazine inspired by William Robinson, was launched. It cost 4d (2p) per week and Robinson edited it for 29 years. 25 November 1892 Nurseryman John Downie died. His Edinburgh nursery had its own Palm House and Begonia House. The crab apple Malus  ‘John Downie’…

Plant bare-rooted raspberry canes between November and April, when soil is not frozen or soggy. They like a well-nourished, neutral or slightly acidic soil, must have good drainage, and struggle on chalk. Choose a sunny site for bountiful crops; however, on light, dry soils, some light shade helps to keep roots moist. Dig a generous hole for each plant, setting them 18-24in (45-60cm) apart in their rows, at the same depth as in the nursery, with the roots sitting about 2in (5cm) below the surface. Prune summer- and autumn-fruiting varieties down to 8in (20cm) initially. Water during droughts for the first couple of years, keep weeds down and give a fertiliser tailored for fruiting plants in spring, followed by a mulch.…

Battle of the buddleja THE letter from Linda Keene (AG, 27 October) brought to mind the ‘Battle of the buddleja’ that was fought by my husband and son when one rooted itself into our paved drive. An afternoon with a pick axe and crow bar resulted in a pile of pavers and the removal of a triffid of a plant which had roots that had spread along all the gaps, making a very effective anchor for the plant. The gardener’s version of ‘a stitch in time’, perhaps? There is quite a serious message here. The roots of lots of shrubs can spread in this way and cause problems not just with drives but also buildings. Buddlejas are beautiful and they seed around so readily, it is often hard to be…