Innholdsfortegnelse for 28-Jul-2018 i Amateur Gardening

I KNOW that each week we point you in the direction of jobs that should be done in the next seven days, but on these two pages I am looking at a clutch of important high summer jobs that won’t take long but will make a big difference to your gardens. Several of them, such as pest control and deadheading, can be done here and there as you stroll around your garde, admiring the results of all your hard work. I like to take a few minutes each evening to do a bit of weeding after work – it’s extremely therapeutic and a great way to get rid of the day’s frustrations! Other jobs take a bit longer. On p5, I show you how to divide an early-flowering perennial that…

Keeping your garden disease-free is hard work, but it’s easier to accomplish if your plants are healthy in the first place. Careful watering and feeding keeps them robust, which make it harder for problems to develop. However, fungal diseases such as hollyhock rust and mildew are hard to prevent. Fungicides can work but may need more than one application. The alternative is to keep plants well ventilated spots, fed and watered so they don’t get stressed. If fungal problems strike, cut off and destroy affected foliage, removing whole plants if necessary.…

Death in the garden: Poisonous plants & their uses throughout history By Michael Brown, White Owl, £16.99 THIS book is much more than a list of poisonous plants and their uses throughout history. It is full of fascinating facts, including a description of each plant, its origins, how to grow it, and its uses – both medicinal and toxic – over the years. There are references to Greek myths, plus anecdotes and literary quotations. Some entries are surprising, such as basil, which, in high doses, is said to be a narcotic, but which is also being tested for its potential toxicity to control mosquitoes. And while foxgloves are known to be poisonous, a toxicologist is reported as stating that, on a scale of 1 to 20, where 1 is the…

SITTING though members questions at the RHS AGM at Hyde Hall Garden last month, old chestnuts such as lack of public transport to gardens, the charge for members to attend London Shows (which look set to close anyway, by all accounts), demands for yet greater services for the disabled and the more recent anti-plastic wrapper campaign were raised. I could not help but feel there were more important issues. No mention was made, for example, of the welcome arrival of Thompson & Morgan trials alongside the new, fantastic Vegetable Garden at Hyde Hall. The T&M plants are spectacular and will, I am sure, be a major draw through the summer. It is only right that seasonal bedding should receive the spotlight in this part of Essex, which has been a…

Many of the tips for gardening during drought are to do with soil, mulch and water, but there’s lots you can do with the plants, too. Our weather is becoming increasingly extreme, so why not consider more weather-tolerant plant varieties such as hairy-leaved stachys and spiky sea holly? They are also great pollinators. Deadhead regularly too, so plants don’t waste energy creating seedheads. Be ruthless! My annual summer bedding has suffered badly in the dry, so several plants have been sacrificed in order to preserve water for the varieties I really want to keep.…

THIS week’s free seeds are for a traditional favourite that have brought stately colour to cottage gardens and pleased generations of garden owners. Mr Fothergill’s Larkspur ‘Giant Imperial Mixed’ grow to a stately 3ft (90cm) tall and will provide beautiful spires of pinks, purples and blues in the middle and towards the back of your herbaceous borders. Hardy annuals, you can sow them now or next spring and they will flower from June through to September. Sow them in a well-prepared seedbed of raked, crumbly soil that has already been watered. Scatter the seeds in swirls and drifts, rather than straight lines, for a more natural display that will work well with other annuals, perennials and grasses. Cover the seeds with 1/4in (0.5cm) of soil and make sure the germinating…

WITH an increasing number of us being put on water meters, and water butts being put under the strain each summer, it pays to be water-wise. Certain crops such as sweetcorn and onions can withstand a bit of drought but others, like celery, celeriac and bulb fennel, will give you miserly yields. So what’s the solution? You’ll need to excavate water trenches to ensure that when you irrigate, the moisture sits exactly where you want it. On my sandy loam, the water tends to run over the surface when summer drought hits. No matter how much I irrigate, nothing seems to get down to the roots. See the panel (opposite) to put things right. Promote extra growth in beans IT doesn’t seem long since we were planting out our French…

I’M not sure how it is in your neck of the woods, but down here in coastal Essex, it looks to be a bumper year for apples, pears and plums. Diligent types (like me, obviously!) will have thinned out their tree fruits back in June, so you should now be looking at bountiful orchard harvests in various states of maturity. With fruit size and, crucially, weight increasing exponentially, some tree limbs are put under enormous strain – with potentially dire consequences. Snapping branches can spoil the shape of your tree, and they may take years to replace. Prevent disaster by propping up heavily laden stems using a Y-shaped stick. Pad it with pipe insulation foam (or even a pair of laddered tights) to prevent rubbing. Job done.…

These achilleas can be propagated by seed and by division; however, raising plants from seed is usually a mistake. If you save your own seed, or allow your plants to self sow, the resulting plants will be unpredictable in height, habit and colour – and there will be too many of them. If you buy seed, the varieties available are usually in mixed colours; and in my experience, they will be mixed in height as well. I recommend buying individual plants of varieties you especially like; then, when you need more, propagating by division or by cuttings. In fact, shoots with a few roots attached can often be broken off and will soon grow away if planted promptly.…

One of the easiest plants to take cuttings from are pelargoninums. If possible, try to gather material early in the morning, when the plant’s stems are full of water. Avoid removing stems with obvious flowers or buds as they will draw energy from the cutting, slowing down or preventing it forming roots. 1 Select some vigorous, healthy shoots and remove from the mother plant by cutting above a leaf joint with secateurs. Avoid stems with flowers or buds. 2 Aim to make a cutting 3-4in (7.5-10cm) long by making a straight cut just below a leaf joint, then remove the lower leaves from the bottom third of the stem. 3 Place the cuttings into a freezer bag with a little water in the bottom, shake and secure the top with…

Irises provide a sensational display of early summer colour, but after several years the plants will run out of steam, forming large clumps that tend to die off in the middle. Fortunately, it’s easy to rejuvenate tired, congested clumps by prising them from the ground after the flowers have faded, and dividing them into several smaller pieces 1 Ease a fork under a clump and lever it up, retaining as much of the rootball as possible. Place it on a bare patch in the border or on some plastic. 2 Split the clump into pieces. Make sure each piece of rhizome has leaves and roots attached. Dispose of any old, damaged or woody sections. 3 Cut the leaves in half horizontally. This reduces stress from water shortage after replanting and…

1 There’s some hard work to do with a spade, but phormiums are not particularly deep-rooted and usually lift out easily. 2 Having given the plant a drink, cut a section away from the main clump using a knife, then pull the roots apart. 3 Using plant snips, trim all leaves (even healthy ones) by a good two thirds to prevent windrock when replanted. 4 Replant the tidied and trimmed division in a hole prepared in moist, well-conditioned soil. Firm well and then water in thoroughly.…

“Apical dominance defines the shape of plant growth” THERE are many reasons to prune our plants: to keep them healthy, encourage flowers and fruit, to influence size, shape and regrowth. Understanding how plants grow and respond to pruning helps us to choose correct methods. Plants respond well to pruning with care, carried out at the right time, with the right technique. Breaking apical dominance Most cellular activity occurs at the soft, green shoot tips of plants where hormones are manufactured. These hormones stimulate and control plant growth. Growth is made from below the topmost (apical) bud – the growing point or leader. This bud enforces a process known as ‘apical dominance’ where the hormones move down the stem and deter growth of side buds. Pruning removes the ends of stems,…

WE all know that mowing the lawn is the most effective way to tidy up a garden, but for a really fine finish the edges need to be cut straight and crisp. Edging shears are the tool for this job. To work comfortably and effectively, you need a sharp pair of shears with handles of a length to suit your height. Too short, and you’ll be stooping all the time – too long, and operating the handles is awkward. They should be light and easy to use. The best way to tackle the job is to stand close to the lawn edge and work from right to left, holding the left handle (which operates the base blade) vertical and using the right handle/top blade to make the cut. Tidy gardeners…

‘Arctic Star’ Often described as the best hardy white, this is a semi-evergreen with grey-green foliage and generous umbels of white flowers. Reaches (3ft) 1m high. ‘Lavender Haze’ A stunning evergreen cultivar with massive heads of lavender blue flowers at 1m (3ft) tall. However, this will require winter protection in most areas. ‘Midnight Cascade’ Inky, dark violet blooms dangle in a pendulous cluster. This deciduous cultivar reaches 27-36in (70-90cm) high. ‘Silver Lining’ This deciduous hybrid between A. praecox and A. inapertus has silvery flowers and will reach 1m (3ft) tall.…

Westland Growing Success Slug Killer is a blue pellet containing the naturally occurring active ingredient ferric phosphate that remains effective after exposure to rain, watering and sunlight. Growing Success Slug Killer can be used as bait for the control of slugs on bare soil and between all edible and non-edible plants. The pellets are certified for organic use and crops can be consumed shortly after. We have three 575g packs to give away, each worth £6.99. See below for details of how to enter the prize draw. How to enter Send your name and address on the back of a postcard to Westland Growing Success Slug Killer Draw (28 July), Amateur Gardening, Pinehurst 2, Pinehurst Road, Farnborough, Hampshire, GU14 7BF. Or you can email your details to ag_giveaway@ti-media.com, heading the…

SLUGS are lazy and so, well… sluggish, they make a snail’s pace look speedy! But next time you’re about to throw one over the garden fence, be thankful for their slime – it’s proving to be a life-saver. The slime calling card of a slug is filled with information. For amorous slugs sliding by, it tells them to follow the trail to love. An absence invites them to eat competition-free, while a spaghetti of silver trails warns that food may be in short supply and encourages slugs to head for pastures new. Some slug species have slime with antibiotic and anti-parasitic properties, while in others it’s a natural defence mechanism, gumming up the beaks of birds that might fancy slugs for lunch. All slugs are sticky, but some are especially…

1 If you regularly take a few minutes to tackle any pests you find, you’ll keep them in check without needing to use chemicals. 2 Stop your pond getting clogged with weeds. Leave them on the side for 24 hours so any aquatic critters can safely return to the water. 3 Keep deadheading annuals and perennials to promote more flowers and healthy growth. 4 The same applies to repeat crops such as courgettes. Pick them when they are small to encourage more to form.…

1 Lift the plant keeping as much soil around the roots as possible to avoid damaging them. 2 Place it on a tarpaulin and divide it with a spade or sharp knife. Each bit should contain healthy roots and shoots. 3 Keep the divisions shaded or wrapped in damp newspaper if you can’t replant immediately. 4 Dig the new holes and add a generous layer of well-rotted compost or manure. Water them well. 5 Place the divisions in their new holes. Infill around them with soil and compost and firm them in well. 6 Water well and mulch to keep the soil damp. Keep them watered and watch for pests and weeds.…

OUR sweet-pea seedlings survived the worst of the slugs and are now romping away up their teepees, flowering well despite the dry summer. Although they will happily scramble and climb, there are a few things you need to do to keep them flowering at their best. In this dry weather regular watering is a must, as sweet peas can be prone to powdery mildew, which is often caused by dry roots and a still atmosphere. Give them a good soaking a couple of times a week, making sure the soil is saturated. Although sweet peas are relatively trouble-free, watch out for aphids that will suck sap from shoots and flower buds. Squash them with your fingers and thumb before they can infest all the plants. I also feed ours once…

1 Black plastic pots need to be washed and re-used; some garden centres have bins for returned empties where customers can then help themselves. Could this become a profitable exercise for the RHS at their gardens, with a donation box for those collecting free, second-hand pots? 2 Returned pots would also be useful for school’s seed sowing and planting workshops. Hundreds of pots and their plastic trays were collected recently from Chelsea Flower Show skips to use at schools for bulb and seed raising. 3 Clear polythene bags are useful to cover rooting cuttings from October to March; white is better when the sun is brighter from April to September. 4 Potting compost and similar polythene bags slit open carefully along the top have a multiple of re-uses. Cut down…

OTHER than weeding and grass cutting, the gardening task that takes the most time and effort is often the watering. This is even more the case in a hot, dry summer. True, you can often skimp on watering plants in the ground, but those in pots and containers can’t be left untended for long. Little is going to improve the appearance, lushness and productivity of crops and bedding as much as generous watering. After all, plants – and the fruits and veg they produce – are all made of water, with some carbon dioxide and minerals added. Many people worry about adding fertiliser when in fact it’s giving plants sufficient water that makes a bigger difference most years. The problem can be the effort. Water is heavy and carrying it…

1 Start by raking the area you want to sow, breaking up the soil and removing weeds, stones and other bits of debris. 2 Give the soil a good soaking before sowing, especially if conditions have been dry. It is worth watering afterwards, too. 3 The seeds are quite large and relatively easy to sow. Scatter thinly, and thin out growing seedlings later on if necessary. 4 Label your seedbed so you don’t disturb or tread on it while gardening. Protect it with a layer of twigs to keep off cats and hungry birds and rodents.…

IT’S been a funny old year so far. Winter gave us a proper chill, spring seemed to take forever to arrive, and then summer came along at an almighty pace – most of my plants don’t know if they’re coming or going! But one thing is for sure, it’s been a good year for apples so far. Despite a late start, the June heatwave (along with regular dousings of the roots by yours truly) has allowed fruits to start ripening nicely. The vast majority of apple varieties won’t be ready for harvest for another month or so, but there are a few early-maturing types (such as ‘Vista Bella’, ‘George Cave’ and ‘Discovery’) that could catch you out. When you add in that drought stress and root congestion of potted plants…

IF you were unfortunate enough to have been stuck in traffic during the recent heatwave, and had taken a look at the roadside verge, you’d probably have spotted patches of green foliage amongst all the dry, brown grass – perhaps with a few stems struggling into flower. Chances are, this was yarrow (Achillea millefolium), demonstrating the drought resistance that makes it – or rather, the many achillea varieties and hybrids that have been developed over the years – so useful in our gardens. Most achilleas are hardy perennials. Their divided foliage is split two or three times into slender filaments. It makes a rich green mound from which, in summer, upright stems emerge, to carry flat heads of flowers so small you can hardly see that they are, basically, daisies.…

One thing to look out for in yarrow varieties and hybrids is how the flowers change colour as they age. In some, as the flowers mature, they change colour harmoniously so that the newly opened blooms and the old ones look good together. AGM winners ‘Credo’, ‘Heidi’ and ‘Martina’, in particular, age well, as do ‘Belle Epoque’, ‘Forncett Fletton’ and ‘Terracotta’. In others the change is, quite frankly, ugly. ‘Fanal’ is especially unpleasant, turning from bright red to dishwater white. ‘Pretty Belinda’ and ‘Red Velvet’ are also poor. It’s worth keeping this in mind when choosing achilleas at nurseries and garden centres.…

Layering is a technique where a long shoot is propagated while still attached to the parent plant. Leaves should be removed from part of the stem, 1ft (30cm) away from the tip, before a thin layer of bark is scraped away with a knife. Bend the shoot down and bury the leafless section in a 2in (5cm) deep trench, pegging it down with a U-shaped piece of wire. The shoot should be rooted and ready to be separated from the parent plant after a full growing season. Forsythia (pictured), climbing roses, azalea, holly and several other shrubs with flexible stems are ideal for layering. Dianthus, or pinks, can become a little leggy and unproductive after a few years, so use this propagating method to create replacement specimens.…

Miniature roses The dainty and beautifully formed little flowers of miniature roses like the stunning ‘Stars ‘n’ Stripes’ (right) warrant close inspection, but dead petals and naked stalks will spoil the effect. Nip off old flowers as they fade; kitchen scissors are just the thing. English roses David Austin’s English Roses revolutionised rose growing, and one of their features is the large number of individual flowers in each head. That means many will be over while new buds are still opening. You’ll need your snips to keep the likes of ‘Buttercup’ (right) looking lovely. Hybrid teas One of the main attractions of Hybrid tea roses such as fragrant ‘Lovely Lady’ (right) is their large and shapely flowers, which often have beautiful colouring. But as the petals turn brown they detract…

What can I do about my roses? Q I have four roses that are all treated the same. Two are flowering, but the other two are just growing long leggy branches with no signs of blooms. What am I doing wrong? Neil O’Connor, via email A Are all four the same variety or the same type of rose? Not all roses should be treated the same, but I am assuming that all yours are at least the same type, if not the same variety, so the same treatment should be fine. However, there is a phenomenon with roses called ‘blind wood’, where shoots are produced that lack flower buds. It appears that flower buds are often initiated, but in blind wood they abort in an early stage of their development.…

Environmental stresses or overpruning – removing more than 25% of the canopy – results in many trees producing sappy, fast-growing, vertical, epicormic or ‘water’ shoots around the site of pruning wounds. These shoots are produced from dormant buds under the bark and a reaction to pruning is one way to stimulate these buds into action. Occasionally, on some species, one of the strongest shoots may be kept – to replace a broken branch, for example. But on most trees they are not likely to be robust enough to make a safe new branch and should be rubbed out or pruned off, or they will multiply and divert energy from the rest of the tree. Magnolia, Quercus (oak), Salix (willow), Tilia (lime) and fruit trees including apples and pears are just…

Long Handled Edging Shears £29.99 01869 363635 for stockists or visit wilkinsonswordtools.co.uk Features Tubular steel handles, 34in (85cm) long, with comfortable plastic non-slip soft grips. Precision ground hardened steel blades. Overall length: 36 1/2in (93cm). Weight: 3lb 2oz (1.43kg). 10 year guarantee. Performance Nice well-balanced shears that feel lighter than other models even though they’re not. Simple plastic non-slip grips are comfy, however you hold them. The handles are slightly shorter than other models but I still found them easy to use. The shears feel very manoeuvrable with an easy action and a clean cut on everything from soft grass blades to tough stems. Value Though there are no major differences between the higher end models on test, these felt the easiest to use. They work well and…

Berried treasures! Raspberries are a quintessential British summer fruit. The berries are ripening nicely in our gardens and allotments now, and with our recent cooler, cloudier summers (this summer being more of an exception) we have had bumper crops. The raspberry (Rubus idaeus) is just one species in the large rubus genus, which includes blackberries, brambles, loganberries and tayberries, including man-made hybrids. Let’s take a look at some of the facts surrounding them. The centre of our galaxy – the Milky Way – is said to taste like raspberries! In 2009, astronomers and scientists searching for amino acids in Sagittarius B2, a giant dust cloud at the heart of the galaxy, found a substance called ethyl formate. This is the chemical responsible for the flavour of raspberries. Raspberry benefits One…

Pop-up granny’s bonnets are a joy I LOVE aquilegia. There, I’ve said it! I HAD to send the attached images to Graham Rice as a flavour of how much I love them [Pick of the very Best, AG , 23 June]. The joy you get from growing your own and not worrying about if they come true to form. There is always excitement in May and early June each year, waiting for the surprises of how they will appear. What will be new? How did the bees mix the colours up and how did the seed respond! I find that every year is different – where else would you find such excitement in a flower? Enjoy as I do your gardening magazine with such practical advice. Anne Kelly, Sligo, Ireland…

In dry weather, slugs hole up underground and in dark places like under stones, sheds and decking. They can live for 12-18 months, although the hot summer will have decimated their numbers. That said, as soon as the wet weather comes again, eggs that last in the soil for many months will hatch and quickly replenish numbers, so be ready to put out beer traps and organic pellets. If you have a live-and-let attitude, you can put them on the compost heap, where they’re an essential part of garden life, eating up any decomposing vegetation.…

“The dense plantings were stunning” GARDENING innovation and the continuing trend for ‘prairie’ and cottage-garden planting came to the fore at this year’s RHS Hampton Court Show. The large Thames-side site was a maze of small gardens and trade stands, with the best of the nation’s specialist growers displaying their magnificent blooms in the Floral Marquee. The two things that really caught our attention were the hard-to-miss trend for closely packed prairie and cottage-garden planting schemes and a clever three-sized growing system called the Vegepod, designed by a new award-winning Australian firm. The Best Show Garden 2018 was the B&Q Bursting Busy Lizzie Garden, featuring 2,000 disease-resistant ‘Imara’ Bizzie Lizzies (featured in AG May 19). These have been bred by horticultural experts Syngenta Flowers and are resistant to downy mildew.…

28: Plant Fair: National Memorial Arboretum, Alrewas DE13 7AR.planthuntersfairs.co.uk 28-29: Chorley Flower Show: Astley Park, Chorley, Lancs PR7 1DP. 01257 515151, chorleyflowershow.com 28-29: Cold Ashby open gardens: Cold Ashby, near Daventry, Northamptonshire (off the A5199, one mile from Junction 1 of the A14.) opengardens.co.uk 29: Grow and Discover: Barnsdale Gardens, The Avenue, Exton, Oakham, Rutland LE15 8AH. 01572 813200; barnsdalegardens.co.uk 29: Plant Fair: British Ironwork Centre, Oswestry, SY11 4JH August  1-5: Flower Show: RHS Garden Hyde Hall, Creephedge Lane, Rettendon, Chelmsford, Essex CM3 8ET. 0845 265 8071, rhs.org.uk/gardens/hydehall 3: Scything for Beginners: RHS Garden Rosemoor, Great Torrington, Rosemoor, Torrington, Devon EX38 8PH. 0203 176 5830; rhs.org.uk/gardens/rosemoor 3: Photographing Plants and Flowers with a Mobile or Tablet: RHS Harlow Carr, Crag Lane, Harrogate, North Yorks HG3 1QB. 0203 176 5830, rhs.org.uk/gardens/harlow-carr…

AT the time of writing, I can’t remember the last time we had any significant rain. Neither can our readers, who have been getting in touch to ask how they can best use what water there is to keep their gardens going. We’re all in this together. Our four water butts are drained, the lawn crunches when you walk on it and several plants wilt between waterings. What should you do when drought conditions arrive? There’s always the hosepipe, but they are expensive if you have a lot of plants and your water is metered. Luckily, there are a few simple and economical tricks you can use to keep your garden growing. Timing is everything, and to keep your soil, containers and growbags damp for longer, water during the cool…

1 Don’t forget this is the last chance for pruning cherry, apricot, peach and plum trees and shrubs, both flowering and fruiting varieties. 2 Place plastic bottles of water that contain tiny holes in the bottoms into dried-out baskets to drip and soak in. 3 Buy Japanese onion seed now, so it’s ready for sowing in three weeks’ time. If you wait, it will be all sold out! 4 When harvesting cabbages, leave the stump and cut a cross in it, water and feed to get bonus mini heads.…

“I grow lots of annual scabious” DARE I say that it’s been unseasonably warm in the wonderfully named village of Cold Aston, and it shows in my garden. We’ve fledged great tits in the nest box on the eastern side of the summerhouse and a family of blackbirds has emerged from the Banksian rose on the other side. We had two robins’ nests in the garden, despite them being notorious protectors of their patch. One was in the lower depths of the wild area, close to an old tree trunk, and the other was in arborescent ivy in the whitebeam. We’ve also seen baby coal tits and blue tits. The birds have been successful because of this year’s warm weather and they’ve been collecting plenty of wriggly things. You may…

1 Grab yourself a hoe with a sturdy head, and a wooden board. Lay the board alongside your row of veg. Using the hoe, excavate a trench that’s around three inches deep. Take care not to damage any crop roots while you’re digging – that’s not the idea! 2 Gently irrigate by using a hosepipe or watering can, ensuring the water flows into the trenches. In the first few fillings, you might need to tweak the trenches, blocking up any leaks or adjusting slopes. Now, your water will sit precisely around the roots. 3 Water in the evening or early morning if you possibly can, to minimise surface evaporation. Giving the trenches a thorough, localised soak is also better for weed control, because the majority of the soil surface remains…

Plant in a sunny site, or one shaded by a fence or wall; achilleas are unhappy in overhead shade. They’ll grow well in most soils, although good drainage is definitely preferable – especially for grey-leaved varieties. These are tough plants – very cold hardy – and can be planted at any time of year when the soil isn’t soggy or frozen. They can even be planted now, in flower. However, until they get their roots down into the soil, they may well wilt on sunny days as the compost dries out. Spot watering with the watering can or hose is very helpful – they’ll soon perk up. Provide discreet support for taller varieties (and plants growing in rich soil), and deadhead regularly. Powdery mildew and aphids are generally the only…

THERE are some seasoned gardeners who have never tried to propagate plants, as they consider it a tricky business that’s best left to a skilled horticulturist. Well, there’s no doubt that some techniques require the manual dexterity of a surgeon’s hands, but there are also plenty of easy ways to make more plants for free, whatever your level of expertise. Mid-summer until early autumn is the perfect time to propagate all sorts of plants using a number of methods, including division, layering and taking cuttings of shrubs, climbers and tender perennials. Plants will form roots within a matter of weeks, turning into young plants that can be used to fill gaps or act as an insurance policy against losses over winter. Due to shoots being fairly firm, or ‘ripe’, at…

Pelargonium ‘Mr Henry Cox’ – loose clusters of pink flowers are carried on 18in (45cm) stems above multicoloured leaves. Abutilon x hybridum ‘Cynthia Pike’ – bred at Hever Castle, Kent, during the 1950s, this flowering maple boasts yellow and red blooms. Impatiens SunPatiens Spreading Salmon – a 2ft (60cm) tall New Guinea impatiens with salmon flowers and variegated leaves. Penstemon ‘Geoff Hamilton’ – good in sun or semi-shade, this produces lots of wine-red flowers on 29in (75cm) stems in summer and autumn. Osteospermum jucundum – masses of pale-lilac daises are produced all summer on 19in (50cm) tall, spreading plants.…

Eremurus stenophyllus AGM Star-like bright yellow flowers make up the exotic-looking spike, which rises above a mass of strappy blue-green leaves. Roots need plenty of sun to encourage more flowers, so plant the crown just below the soil’s surface. Blooms from June to July. H: 5ft (1.5m). Digitalis purpurea ‘Sutton’s Apricot’ A classic cottage garden foxglove with soft pink, tubular flowers on statuesque stems. To extend the flowering season, remove the main flower stem and more will appear. It’s a hardy biennial but you can buy plug plants from late summer. H: 4ft (1.2m). Lupinus ‘Masterpiece’ A particular favourite at the recent Chelsea Flower Show, this lupin makes a statement with its rocket-shaped flowers (in a rich purple with flecks of orange) and deeply…

‘Madame Grégoire Staechelin’ It’s tempting to tidy up this once-flowering climber (and small-flowered ramblers, too) when the final petals drop. But to do so would be a mistake as after its super-scented two-tone pink flowers come large, rounded red hips. H: 10-20ft (3-6m). Rosa moyesii At its peak now, with rich crimson single flowers making a real impact at the back of the border. Left to their own devices, these will be followed by unusually large, flagon-shaped hips in the deepest red – they look lovely against a blue sky. H: 6 1/2-10ft (2-3m). Rosa rugosa Most forms of R. rugosa, probably the toughest and most resilient of all shrub roses, make impressive bright red fruits. And with flowering continuing into autumn, flowers and fruits will overlap. ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’…

Q I have several phormiums (New Zealand flax) dotted around the garden, and after last winter they are looking brown and horrible. How can I rescue them and tidy them up? Linda Gornall, Swadlincote, Derbyshire A The Beast from the East took its toll on evergreens last winter, especially at one point when stems and leaves were encased in a thick coating of clear ice. Phormiums produce their new leaves from the centre of the plant and it takes a while for fresh foliage to take over from damaged older leaves. Phormium cookianum , known as mountain flax, grows to around 6ft (1.8m) with arching leaves. The true New Zealand flax ( P. tenax ) has upright leaves and can reach a massive 12ft (4m) tall. When mature enough, both…

Q This plant appeared in my garden. Can you tell me what it is? G Slater, Bristol A This is a dragon arum (Dranunculus vulgaris). A native of the Canaries and eastern Mediterranean, it usually produces a large purple spathe – fleshy leaf – and a purple poker-like spadix. I’m glad it likes your garden, which must be sheltered and free-draining. Q What is this unusual moth? It’s ever so pretty. Mrs J Battison, Leicester A This is a swallow-tailed moth (Ourapteryx sambucaria). Easily recognised by its pale-yellow wings and short-tailed streamers, adults fly in June and July. The larvae eat ivy and hawthorn. It lives in woods, hedges, parks and gardens, but because it is nocturnal it is not often seen. Q Can you identify this plant? Mrs A…

Timing is vital for pruning certain deciduous trees, shrubs and woody climbers. Bleeding of sap (plant fluid in cells and vascular tissue) occurs due to the rising pressure of sap within the tissues that conduct water and sugars around the plant. Normally, the sap of deciduous plants falls in autumn to early winter, as the plants lose their leaves and become dormant. In late winter to early spring, the sap starts to rise again, bringing water and sugar to the new swelling leaf buds. The sap of some trees – Japanese and other maples, birch, mulberry and walnut and woody climbers such as grape vines – begins to rise very early. Pruning when sap is rising, in late winter or spring, can result in bleeding or oozing of sap through…

24 July 1958 Lincolnshire-born Montagu ‘Mont’ Allwood, breeder of carnations and pinks, died. When the Queen visited Chelsea Flower Show, he always presented her with a posy of pinks. 25 July 1804 William Forsyth died. He was superintendent of the royal gardens at Kensington and St James’s Palaces, co-founder of the RHS and the person after whom the forsythia is named. Bruce Forsyth was his 5x great-grandson! 25 July 2005 Harry Dodson, the gardener who became a celebrity as a result of the BBC television series The Victorian Kitchen Garden, died. He had been head gardener and nurseryman at Chilton Foliat in Wiltshire. 28 July 1586 Potatoes arrived in England for the first time on this day, on a ship from Colombia, according to the Penguin Reference Library. They were…