Innholdsfortegnelse for 20-Jan-18 i Amateur Gardening

THE prime time to plant trees is during the dormant weeks of winter. This is especially important for bare-root trees, which are usually only available until around the end of February. Container-grown trees and shrubs can go in the ground at any time of year, providing the soil isn’t frozen or waterlogged. However, winter is the optimum season as the ground is damp and the plants have time to get established and settle their roots before they come into growth in spring. Whether you are planting a potted tree or a bare-root one, there are various things you need to do to give it the best chance. Nothing will grow if the soil is compacted or depleted of nutrients, so prepare it well before planting. Remove weeds and debris, dig…

Select a long, healthy shoot from last year’s growth and remove its soft tip. Cut it into 6-12in (15-30cm) sections, giving each one a sloping top to repel rain. Cut straight across at the base below a bud or pair of buds, and dip the lower cut end in rooting powder or gel. The cutting can now be inserted into a pot of cuttings compost mixed with grit or perlite, or into a trench enriched with well-rotted organic matter in a sheltered part of the garden. Two-thirds of the cutting should be below the surface, as roots will form along the stem. Cuttings should be left in place until the following autumn, ensuring they are kept watered during dry periods in summer.…

THE days may seem dark and dreary, but they are slowly drawing out – the shortest day was a month ago – and spring will soon be upon us. This is as good a time as any plant labels – what’s the point in buying more when the shed and greenhouse are littered with them? When you start sowing, clean pots are as essential an item as fresh seed compost and clean to start preparing for sowing seeds and nurturing cuttings ready for summer’s display. This week I’ve been stocktaking essential equipment and making sure the greenhouse is a suitable environment for young seedlings. water, as germinating seeds are vulnerable and easily succumb to fungal diseases. Don’t forget to wash out watering cans too, as slugs and snails use them…

“Mr Big was bred in Germany” PLANT breeders have steadily developed begonias to improve them considerably over recent years. Tuber-forming kinds have had fragrance added in a number of cases and the fibrous-rooted types are now available with much greater vigour, so they grow to a larger size. Bedding begonia ‘Mr Big’ will grow to more than 18in (45cm) tall in one summer from a tiny seed sown at this time of year. This introduction now crosses all political boundaries, with large beds of them at the Eiffel Tower in France, the Kremlin in Russia, Tiananmen Square in China and in the White House Garden in the USA. Mr Big was bred by Benary in Germany and is well named. It comes with pink and red flowers on plants with…

1 Before carrying tools in a wheelbarrow, place a piece of carpet or an old sack inside so the tools don’t slip around. 2 Under cover, sow onion and leek seed in trays and put onion, garlic and shallot sets singly in multi-celled trays. 3 Buy seed potatoes (sets) and ‘chit’ them by setting them rose-end up (the end with lots of eyes) in a cool, light place. 4 The coldest weather often comes over the next few weeks, so check gutters and drains for blockages, and protect outside taps, hoses and pipes.…

“Nuthatches don’t move far from their breeding grounds” THE best month for seeing birds in my garden is February. I normally see a treecreeper – a brown bird that is easily spotted as it only ever moves up trees, not down. Known to love the craggy bark of the Wellingtonia (Sequoiadendron giganteum), my personal treecreeper climbs stone walls instead, usually in a sheltered part of the garden behind a large oil tank. I may have only one or two sightings per year of this resident brown bird as it prises out insects with its curved beak, but it usually coincides with a mini invasion of small birds that may include blackcaps, marsh tits and tiny goldcrests. Last year I also spotted the brighter firecrest searching for insects in a flowering…

THERE’S nothing as delicious as new potatoes, cooked straight from the soil. Granted, here at AG we say that about most veg, but it is arguably more the case with early spuds than it is with other veg. Steamed earlies are a treat for the tastebuds, but potatoes from the supermarket are low on flavour and can contain pesticides. However, if you grow them yourself I guarantee they’ll taste better, and if you do decide to spray you’ll know exactly what you sprayed and when. You can even grow them in pots. So, which ones should you grow? First early potatoes are the quickest to mature. They will be ready to eat 60-110 days after planting, so get them in the ground around the end of March and they can…

Q Can you tell me what this plant is, please? Mrs P Watkin, Kings Lynn, Norfolk A This is garlic mustard, a British native wildflower that is rampant in fertile soil. Eradicate it with a systemic weedkiller based on glyphosate, such as Roundup or Tumbleweed, that breaks down harmlessly in the soil. Apply it in spring when it is warmer and the chemical will be more effective. Q How should I overwinter my Brazilian spider flower? Derek Barclay, London A Keep your plant in a frost-free greenhouse, but not indoors as it will keep flowering and its petals will fall everywhere. From June onwards, place it outdoors and enjoy its foliage all summer. In August, buds will slowly start to open. QI have a problem with Himalayan balsam. What should…

1 Dig a hole as deep as the tree’s container and slightly wider. Fork up the base and add some well-rotted compost or manure. 2 Having placed the tree in water to saturate its rootball, gently ease it from its pot and tease out any tangled or circling roots. 3 Position the tree in its hole, making sure the trunk is straight, and in-fill around it. Firm the soil by treading on it. 4 Water the tree well and add a layer of mulch. Keep it well watered and don’t let it dry out while it becomes established.…

1 Immerse the roots in a bowl of water for at least 30 minutes before planting. 2 Make sure the container is large enough for at least two years’ growth. Line its base with crocks. 3 Add the compost and place the tree centrally. Spread its roots so it is well balanced. 4 Add more compost, making sure the tree’s knobbly graft is visible. Leave room for watering. 5 Insert a stake into the compost, firm it in and attach the tree using a figure-of-eight to avoid chafing the bark. 6 Water the tree well, letting it soak through. Stand the pot on feet and keep it well watered.…

I SOWED my first batch of sweet peas back in the autumn and now, at the tail-end of winter, I am starting a second batch. Although sweet peas are hardy, I don’t want to sow them in the beds where they will grow as the cold and damp may cause them to rot, and hungry rodents will see them as a tasty snack. So I am starting them off undercover and will plant out the sturdy young seedlings in late spring once they have been hardened off and acclimatised to the elements. Sweet peas are easy to sow and grow, and are an ideal ‘starter’ seed for novice gardeners. The seeds are also popular with hungry mice, but you can deter rodents by soaking the seeds in liquid paraffin overnight…

SPRING is a great time to put up nest boxes, ready for this year’s broods. So this week why not start checking out your garden for a suitable site? To make your nest box attractive to prospective residents there are several factors to bear in mind. Its site needs to be sheltered from prevailing winds, driving rain and strong sunlight, and the box should be angled slightly downwards so rain bounces away. If you don’t have any trees, fix the box to a wall or fence, making sure it is around 9ft (3m) off the ground. Place it where it can’t be easily accessed by cats or squirrels and other predators. Deter potential predators by buying a box with a metal plate around the entrance that stops rats and squirrels…

CERTAIN crops have earned themselves gourmet status and Witloof chicory is one of them. In part, this reputation is due to the delicately bitter flavour of the crisp raw leaves, which make excellent vessels for sweeter crab meat. The crop, too, is a labour of love, having two growth stages that need different treatments. I sowed the seeds in drills way back in May (make sure you use Witloof chicory, not its relative, endive). The resulting row of chicory developed much like a large lettuce during summer and in autumn I lifted the parsnip-like roots and stored them in sand until now. Here’s the next stage of the story, step by step (see right). Winter-wash fruit trees and bushes DON’T worry, I’m not asking you to take your scrubbing brushes…

LATE winter is the time to spruce up the garden and cut back certain plants. Perennials left standing can be pruned now to remove dead and damaged material, but make sure you don’t remove new growth starting to come through. You can then mulch the soil to boost roots and keep down weeds. This week I’m also cutting back my rose bushes in readiness for when they start to shoot. Late winter and early spring are often stormy, so cutting them back reduces the risk of losing them to wind rock, which can weaken their roots. Hard frosts can lift and crack soil around plants, so tread the ground around roses after a sharp freeze to keep them secure. When pruning, remove dead, damaged and diseased wood. Take out branches…

LIVING in rural Herefordshire, where orchards and cider making are so much part of the community, I have become transfixed by the customs linked to apple trees and orchards. January is the month not only to plant trees, but also for wassailing. This is an ancient custom that is performed to bring health to the cider crop. The Morris Men of my local market town have been wassailing in and around Herefordshire for the past 40 years. To find out more, I spoke to Mark Carter of Leominster Morris Men. “Fires are lit in an orchard, and the assembled sing to the trees and make plenty of noise to drive the evil spirits away,” Mark explained. “Plenty of professional cider makers come to the Leominster Morris wassail hoping that the…

How do I sort out a sickly rosemary? Q OUR 4ft (1.2m) high rosemary plant grew and flowered well in summer, but now it is starting to turn yellow and brown, and has brittle stems. Is there any way we can save it? Sam Evans, Truro, Cornwall A THIS question had me scurrying outside to check my own rosemary plant, because it too has been looking peaky. There are yellow and brown leaves towards the tips of shoots, but healthier growth near the base. I cut a stem and brought it into the office to have a close inspection. Rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs tend not to be long-lived in my garden because our growing conditions are the opposite of the sunshine and poor, well-drained soil they are used to.…

CUTTING up heavy tree and shrub prunings with a chainsaw or bow saw will be a lot easier if the limb or trunk is properly supported on a well-made sawhorse. The traditional X-frame models work fine and there’s a wide choice available. We tried three of these, as well as two other designs aimed at gardeners with lots of logs to cut. All worked effectively. Our Best Buy sneaked in front because it’s made from hardwood and won’t damage chainsaw blades when cutting above the horse. Timber should be cut to a length of 3-6ft (1-2m) depending on diameter, and have all side branches removed before placing it on the sawhorse to cut into logs of around 8in (20cm). An electric or petrol chainsaw is essential if you have a…

Hedges that cross boundaries I’M not usually moved to write to AG , but was I alone in finding Michael Hughes’s comments on rampant hedges ( AG , 16 December) being a nuisance a wee bitty holier-than-thou? While it would be good if we all had the right knowledge about the size trees and shrubs will grow to, not all of us are so scientific in our gardening approach. I’m certainly not, and I have ‘rescued’ trees and shrubs from supermarkets and garden centres that were not being treated properly, not realising they would grow rather more than I had expected! I did have a tree expert round a few weeks ago, who gave all my trees a nice trim, but I rather think Mr Hughes would still find my…

IF you don’t mind waiting a couple of years for plants to grow, bare-root planting is a cheap and easy way of creating a hedge or populating your garden with trees and shrubs. The plants are usually young ‘whips’, a year or so old. They may not look like much, but don’t be deceived – they have robust roots and will grow considerably in their first year. When your whips arrive, check their roots are damp and don’t let them dry out, as this is the quickest way of killing the plants or stunting their growth. Clear the planting area and enrich it with well-rotted compost or manure. If you are planting a hedge, anchor weed-suppressing membrane over the top and make holes where you want the trees to go.…

HOSTS of golden daffodils are a welcome sight after grey winter days, which is why it is so disappointing when clumps of daffs emerge without flowers. Bulbs that produce healthy leaves but fail to bloom are known as ‘blind’, and there are several reasons why this happens and several ways to prevent it. If the bulbs are planted somewhere dry, or don’t receive sufficient water while in growth, they may die back prematurely, failing to replenish food reserves needed for future flowering. Keep watering them after flowering, as the bulbs continue to grow, and you are more likely to get a good show the following year. Removing the leaves too early, knotting them and allowing flowers to set seed also stops the bulbs from building up the necessary food reserves.…

WHEN it’s too cold or wet to do any outside gardening, I check the plants overwintering in the greenhouse. There’s a tender fuchsia and a cut-back tender banana, a standard olive with a dianthus and an erigeron (fleabane) planted at its base, and a lemon that is fruiting well. When I moved the olive into the greenhouse at the start of winter it also had a few Begonia Semperflorens at its base, left over from summer. Although they lasted well into the winter, a spate of hard frosts quickly did for them so I have removed them before their dead and dying leaves attracted diseases and pests. There are several pelargoniums potted up in John Innes No 1 and given no extra food and only occasional water. They will stay…

IT’S said that the most important time in the gardening year is late winter through to early spring. That’s when the foundation for summer is set. If something isn’t planted or sown by the end of spring, it gets harder or more expensive to do later in the year. Leaving grass growing too long before you start cutting creates difficulties, and weed control becomes nigh-on impossible once the devils get away. But the one thing you can be sure that will hamper your gardening this year is doing yourself an injury right now. Many accidents happen when the roads and paths are frozen. A coating of ice makes everything so slippery, and concrete especially so. We all know this – and so did the hundreds of people nursing broken ankles,…

1 The thick fleshy roots will sit quite happily in a bucket of moist sand until mid-spring – store this somewhere cool but frost-free. Use only the largest roots for forcing, otherwise the resulting crop (called ‘chicons’) will be disappointingly small. 2 Pot up some of the roots four or five weeks before you need them. Literally ‘plant’ them in a large pot of compost so only the leafy top is visible. Water the roots in well and position them somewhere relatively warm, such as a heated greenhouse. 3 It’s important that the plants aren’t exposed to light, so position a large upturned pot over your planted chicory, blocking up any drainage holes with a tile. Over the next few weeks each root will develop a tight bud of leaves…

20 Jan: A celebration of Snowdrops: Harveys Garden Plants, Great Green, Thurston, Suffolk IP31 3SJ. 01359 233363, harveysgardenplants.co.uk 23: Apple Pruning: RHS Garden Rosemoor, Great Torrington, Rosemoor, Torrington, Devon EX38 8PH. 0203 176 5830, rhs.org.uk/gardens/rosemoor 24: Garden Walk – an Introduction to Grafting: RHS Harlow Carr, Crag Lane, Harrogate, North Yorks HG3 1QB. 0203 176 5830, rhs.org.uk/gardens/harlow-carr 25: The Story of Rosemoor: RHS Garden Rosemoor, Great Torrington, Rosemoor, Torrington, Devon EX38 8PH. 0203 176 5830, rhs.org.uk/gardens/rosemoor 25: Butterfly Photography: RHS Wisley, Wisley Lane, Woking, Surrey GU23 6QB. 0845 6121 253, rhs.org.uk/gardens/wisley 27: Hedge Laying: RHS Garden Rosemoor, Great Torrington, Rosemoor, Torrington, Devon EX38 8PH. 0203 176 5830, rhs.org.uk/gardens/rosemoor 27: RSPB Big Garden Bird Walk: RHS Wisley, Wisley Lane, Woking, Surrey GU23 6QB. 0845 6121 253, rhs.org.uk/gardens/wisley • Please send details…

‘Blenheim Orange’ A dual-purpose apple for eating from the tree or cooking. The late-season crop stores well. Copes well in a north-facing position. This triploid variety needs two apple varieties nearby for pollination ‘Bramley’s Seedling’ The most popular cooking apple thanks to its sharp flavour and generous crops. It is possible to use it as part of a cider mix. The large apples store well. Good disease resistance. A triploid variety ‘Egremont Russet’ A tasty late-season russet apple. Perfect partner for a good lump of cheese. Sweet flavour that makes it ideal for juicing and eating from the tree. Self-fertile ‘James Grieve’ Another versatile apple that is used for eating, cooking and juicing. A mid season apple with fruits ripening in September. A great pollinator for other apple trees. Partially…

‘Barmstedt Gold’ (AGM) Makes a strong, upright plant with a long season of twisted and slightly crisped petals in rich yellow, toning to orange at the base. Also features attractive yellow autumn colour and a good scent. H: 11 1/2ft (3.5m). ‘Diane’ (AGM) The best red-flowered variety, ‘Diane’ has impressive autumn colour – red and orange tones, eventually turning almost crimson. However, the scent is light. Spreading growth. H: 8ft (2.5m). ‘Pallida’ (AGM) Wonderful, light-up-the-garden sulphur yellow flowers open in December and January, and carry a tantalising scent. The autumn leaf colour is bright yellow; growth is spreading. H: 10ft (3m). ‘Angelly’ (AGM) The acid-yellow flowers have a strong, sweet scent and open in February and March. Upright in growth, ‘Angelly’ makes a smaller plant than many witch hazels. H:…

Will wilt end my clematis collection? Q Over the past four years clematis wilt has taken all but one of my 16 clematis plants. Despite comprehensive hygiene with tools and a good feeding regime, I couldn’t prevent the spread. How can I eradicate this virus? Barbara Schofield (via email) AI am sorry that many of your clematis have succumbed to wilt disease. Sadly, there are no fungicides to control this problem, so the best way to tackle it is to plant a clematis 6in (15cm) deeper than it is in its pot. The plant responds by producing several stems. Then, if one collapses overnight from wilt and you cut it back to near ground level, remaining stems continue to develop strongly. Interestingly, wilt doesn’t normally kill clematis. After six weeks…

Four Snowdrop Facts • Snowdrops have been referred to in literature as “Fair Maidens of February”. This is somewhat of a misnomer as, although most of our commonly grown snowdrops do flower in February, by choosing different types carefully it is possible to have them flowering in the garden from late September through to April. • In milder parts of the country honeybees will fly to snowdrops. This results in the plants producing abundant seed, and bees have to be credited for creating, over the centuries, many new hybridised strains. • Snowdrops tend to thrive around churches where cutting the grass may be the only maintenance undertaken. • Large drifts of apparently wild snowdrops are spread by the work of earthworms, moles and other animals, rooting around and moving bulbs…

NOMOPHOBIA is the terror of being in the garden without a mobile phone signal. It shouldn’t be confused with gnomophobia, the terror of being in the garden with a garden gnome. Thankfully, I suffer from neither, although I must take care when choosing roses not to succumb to a different modern affliction known as ‘options paralysis’. Knowing I’m a potential victim is the first step to recovery. The next is to set strict selection criteria and then try to stick to them. First, decide on what shape of rose you want, whether it’s a shrub, dwarf floribunda, climber and so on. Then, rather than go straight in on a colour, look for varieties that suit the soil type and aspect of the garden. Roses are hungry plants that love having…