Innholdsfortegnelse for 14-Oct-2017 i Amateur Gardening

Stand strong: Support young trees with a stake and tie. Allow the tree some room to move in the wind. ‘There is no need to use wound paint after pruning’ IF you have deciduous trees and shrubs in your garden, autumn and winter are key seasons for keeping them looking their best. Most of them can be pruned now, while they are dormant and the sap is lying low, though timings vary for certain varieties (see p5 panel). Whether you are trimming them back to keep them attractive, or removing whole branches that are diseased, dangerous or growing out of place, always use sharpened tools that will cut cleanly without damaging the remaining wood. Clean tools after each task (I wipe mine down with antibacterial hand sanitiser) and wipe them…

A SUMMER garden without a stand of sweet peas is definitely lacking something. Beautiful to look at, and with a sweet, heady scent, they are part and parcel of British horticulture. Regularly topping our ‘favourite summer flower’ polls, sweet peas are hardy annuals and can be sown now. In fact, if you do so, the resulting plants will be more robust and have stronger roots than those sown next spring. Traditionally, sweet peas are seen climbing up a teepee of canes or willow, or scrambling through other plants. However, these are versatile plants and there are several dwarf varieties available that look wonderful as ground cover or in hanging baskets. Gardeners are also spoilt for choice when it comes to cultivar colour, scent and flower shape. Some blooms are light…

One side of our dual compost heap has been filling up with green and brown garden waste and kitchen peelings. It had almost become too full, so it was time for the rotted mix in the other side of the bin to be spread or bagged up to make room for new stuff, while the full heap is left to rot down. Winter’s drop in temperature means that composting will take slightly longer, so to get the process off to a good start we left a layer of alreadycomposted material at the bottom of the bin. This will be rich in microbes, worms and woodlice that help break down plant material. It’s always interesting to see what has survived the composting process. When we had a bagless vacuum cleaner that…

“Your fairy garden could become a popular play area” THERE is a general fascination for all things small; kittens, lambs, puppies and miniaturised plants all come to mind. It should, therefore, come as no surprise we have a current interest in growing ‘fairy gardens’. I first came across the miniaturisation idea at Coolings Garden Centre, Knockholt, Kent, where they had a model back garden on a table top. Then collections of fairy ephemera were seen at a number of garden retailers and we had a ‘fairy landscape’ built by the Perennial Charity on our shed roof at RHS Chelsea Flower Show earlier this year. Nursery companies are now catching on and offering plants of appropriate size, shape and appearance to further embellish small areas in domestic gardens for fairies. Here,…

1 Keep mowing regularly and raise the height of cut – longer-bladed grass comes through hard weather better than close cropped turf. 2 Alternate cuts with the grass catcher removed: this returns clippings and shredded leaves to the turf to feed the worms for better fertility, drainage and aeration. 3 Put layers of surplus grass clippings on top of layers of leaf mulches to ‘glue’ the leaves in place and stop them blowing about. 4 Buy end-of-season sale barbecue charcoal – it’ll keep perfectly well till next year when the price will inevitably go up again.…

“Many are eaten by migrating birds” GARDENERS often ask me how they can have a more wildlifefriendly garden. One of the easiest ways is to plant a hedge, but it has to be the right hedge. My village contains lots of Portuguese laurel hedging (Prunus lusitanica), probably chosen because it forms a dense screen. It needs cutting at least three times a year, which would put me off, but more importantly it offers very little to insects although vine weevil and leaf-mining moths enjoy munching through the shiny evergreen foliage. Others are wrestling with Leyland conifer hedges (Cupressus x leylandii) planted for their rapid growth. Finches and some birds like to roost in them admittedly, but few insects are attracted because the Portuguese laurel and the North American Leyland cypress…

Tip: Common garden spiders are an important ally in our battle against pests, but avoid picking them up as female spiders will sometimes bite, especially if disturbed in their webs It may seem like sacrilege, but my plan is to remove small fruitlets on my fan trained fig tree (Ficus carica ‘Dalmatie’) before they get any bigger as they are unlikely to ripen in the colder weather. this will allow the plant to divert all of its energy into producing fruit for next summer. It’s a different story in warmer climes, where fig trees can have two or three crops a year. In Italy, the figs that appear as tiny round growths on bare branches in early spring are known as the breba or first crop. these swell over spring…

AS a rule, it is always best to use seeds before they reach the best-before or sow by date – usually given as a month and year - printed on the back of packets. Most will have been packed between one to two years before this date and will be at their most viable, providing high germination rates. Once the seeds have gone past their best-before date, they are likely to remain viable for up to two years, possibly longer, but germination rates will nosedive. So, there’s no need to throw the packets away, as long as you don’t expect the kind of results you would get with newer seeds. A big factor in all of this is how seeds are stored. Those placed in an airtight container, and stashed…

Can I plant my border now? Q Please can you help me with planting an herbaceous border? When and how should I plant lilies, and when is the best time for me to move out plants that are being kept in pots? Anne Gibson, Alnwick, Northumberland A Lilies are best planted in autumn, with bulbs placed at a depth of 2.5 times the height of the bulb. Ideal conditions are a south-facing, slightly sloping site in sun or partial shade. Any ordinary garden soil should be fine, but some lilies prefer alkali soil and others struggle where there is lime. Lilies will benefit if their soil is enriched with leaf-mould or well-rotted compost. Heavy clay soils should have coarse grit worked into the planting region. Over-wintering really shouldn’t be a…

1 Make life easier for yourself by tying in loose branches before moving, so you are less likely to get one in the eye! 2 Carefully dig around the shrub, trying not to damage the roots. Lift it from the ground keeping as much soil attached as possible – watering beforehand helps. 3 Prevent roots drying out by wrapping them in a black plastic bin liner or dampened newspaper when you move the plant to its new spot. 4 Place the plant at the same depth as its rootball. Check the depth is right using a cane resting on the soil. Add or remove soil where necessary. 5 In-fill around the shrub using removed soil with added compost or well-rotted manure if soil is thin. Firm it in well. 6…

■ Sweet pea seeds are hard little balls with a tough protective coating. ■ Although this helps keep them safe, it can sometimes slow down germination, leaving them vulnerable to rotting in the soil. ■ You can speed up germination by interfering with the seeds’ shell. ■ Some people soak their seeds overnight in tepid water, though this can increase the risk of mould development. ■ If you have a steady hand you use a knife to nick the casing opposite the ‘eye’ where the seed first germinates. Alternatively, take the safer path of thinning the case by filing it with an emery board.…

TopTip Don’t add mulch right up to the trunks of trees. Leave an empty collar of a few inches because wet mulch can soften the wood and cause rotting when it comes into contact with plant material. WITH the autumn garden clear-up well under way now, I find myself with several patio containers and vegetable growers that are some way past their best. While the annual plants can be composted and the perennials removed and re-located for the winter, what should I do with the pots’ spent compost? The answer is add it to the borders, because while it may no longer be rich in nutrients, it will improve hardworking soil. Mulching is the equivalent of providing plants with a duvet that protects their roots from the coldest weather and…

EVEN though I have been gardening for several years, I still get a thrill from seeing all the crops we can grow in a relatively small space. We grow all our vegetables in raised beds or patio containers and are usually left with a surplus to be frozen or pickled. This year’s haul included broad beans, onions, tomatoes, shallots and Swiss chard. The latest harvest was of beetroot and potatoes grown in sacks on the patio. I lifted the beets before they grew to full size because I love their sweet succulence when they are just the size of golf balls. The best way of storing them is in boxes of lightly dampened sand or leafmould. If the box is deep, you will be able to get several layers of…

IF you’re a fan of sizzling hot chillies, chances are you might well have grown varieties such as ‘Tabasco’, ‘Habanero’ or even ‘Naga’. These are derived from perennial species (unlike ‘Hungarian Hot Wax’ and ‘Jalapeno’ which are both annuals) and, like other perennial plants, they have the ability to overwinter. This brings one huge advantage: plants come into cropping more quickly than those raised from seed each spring, and they can therefore give you bigger and more successful harvests. It’s a fairly straightforward process to overwinter your plants. If you’ve ever seen pelargoniums or tender fuchsias safely through this chilly season then you’ll be successful with peppers, too. Here’s how to do it: Harvest celery WHO doesn’t love a Sunday tea of cheese, biscuits and celery? This moisture-loving crop has…

THERE’S no getting away from it – winter is on its way! If I wasn’t a keen skier I’d be mortified by this fact – dank, dark days are not my idea of fun. Plants aren’t too keen on the idea either, shutting down and often losing their leaves till the weather perks up in spring. we can let hardy crops such as apples and cherries get on with things outside (perhaps lag the outside of pots with bubblewrap if conditions get very chilly) but tender crops such as citrus, pomegranate and persimmon need more help. such plants will be pot-grown so move them under cover now. Choose a well-lit spot where temperatures don’t fall below 8°C – a conservatory is ideal (though not many of us own one, so…

BACK in the spring I had the bright idea of planting a Japanese hydrangea vine (Schizophragma hydrangeoides) against the fence at the back of my north-facing garden. I had thought the spot would be perfect for this selfclinging climber but the plant has not done as well as expected. Belonging to the hydrangeaceae plant family, it has similar looks to climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris), although I think its heartshaped leaves and white blooms are more attractive. It requires more or less the same conditions to thrive, namely light, moist soil that doesn’t waterlog in winter and a semi-shaded position. Well, my soil is perfect, but the position has proven to be a problem. The sun doesn’t strike this part of the garden until about mid-afternoon in summer but…

I’M not averse to making changes to the garden if I think it will be of benefit in the long run. take for example, a small triangular wedge of soil under my pergola, which I turned into a winter interest bed of hellebores, bergenia and evergreen grasses, under planted with several different varieties of snowdrop. It certainly serves to brighten up the garden in winter, but from about March onwards there are no flowers to turn heads and, even when the plants are at their best, I find the arrangement pretty boring. As my garden largely consists of structural, architectural plants, I’ve decided that this bed should be home to something big and leafy, which would add to the overall look. the perfect candidate is a large Euphorbia mellifera that…

NAMED after one half of the American explorer duo Lewis and Clark, this week’s free seeds from Mr Fothergill’s are a cottage favourite with a pop of colour. Clarkia ‘Choice Double Mixed’ grow to 12in (30cm) tall and are topped with clusters of pretty double flowers in shades of pink. They are easy to grow and will look spectacular in borders and as cut flowers for indoor arrangements. Clarkia have a long season of flowering, from early summer right through to the first frosts. They do best sown in a sunny site that has wellprepared, free-draining soil. You can sow some now, which will start to germinate and put on root growth over the next few weeks. They will become dormant through the depths of winter before returning to life…

Why are my apples scabby? Q Why are the apples and pears on my fruit trees all scabby and what should I do to avoid this next year? Nelly Tully, Cooga, Ireland A The fruits you describe are suffering from a fungal disease aptly called apple scab, though it also affects pears. The symptoms begin in spring, with olive green or brownish spots and blotches appearing on leaves, coupled with a velvety appearance while spores are being released. Later, the patches turn darker and sometime crack. Leaves are likely to fall early. Fruits are affected too and, to be honest, many domestic fruit trees across the country are infected with scab to some degree. Most of us are able to carry out good preventative care and continue to harvest decent…

Q I recently purchased some Lilium candidum bulbs and I’m wondering how deep I should plant them? Christina Feltham (via email) A Plant bulbs of Lilium candidum with their tip at or just below the surface. Plants do best in well-drained alkali soil with their tops in the sun but their roots in some shade, which is achieved by putting them between low growing perennials or shrubs. Q Can you tell me what is eating my fuchsias in pots? Mrs Martin (via email) A This looks like the work of fuchsia flea beetles. These tiny, shiny, blue beetles and their larvae feed on the leaves and shoot tips of fuchsias, leaving holes and brown patches. Flea beetles jump off the leaves when disturbed. If there is a heavy infestation next year,…

GARDENING is not always a fair weather pastime – rain, wind, frost and sometimes snow can conspire to make the great outdoors wet and pretty cold. Although gardeners rarely let damp conditions put a stop to their activities, it’s always more comfortable if you can work in the garden without getting your hands wet. We’re tried six pairs of waterproof and waterresistant gloves to see how they cope with keeping your hands clean and dry when working outside in damp conditions. It’s worth noting there’s a big difference between water-resistant and waterproof. The former might keep your hands dry from the odd splash or some damp leaves – but won’t do the job when it’s downright wet. Score 11/15 Lime Water-Resistant Gloves £4.29 + £4.95 p&p 01963 269077 briersltd.co.uk Features…

Write to: Wendy Humphries, Amateur Gardening, Pinehurst 2, Pinehurst Road, Farnborough, Hampshire GU14 7BF or email: amateurgardening@timeinc.com Star letter I don’t want a clean slate! WHEN we moved into our terraced house in the early 70s we liked the fact that our neighbours took great care of their gardens. Each house had a display of flower beds and well-kept lawns, often with a greenhouse and pond. Some 40 years later the gardens are gone, replaced with depressing drives of grey chipped stones or gravel, block paving or Tarmac. Only me and another stalwart continue to maintain a traditional front garden. It wouldn’t be quite so bad if their back gardens were well kept but all I can see from my upstairs window are trampolines and even hot tubs sited in…

■ Because gardening is not an exact science, there are some deciduous trees and shrubs that should NOT be pruned now. ■ These are mainly members of the Prunus family (including cherry, peach, plum, almond and apricot) that can be affected by the winterborne spores of silverleaf disease. ■ Some other pruning regimens: Acer: Prune Japanese maples after leaf fall but before January. Cut back snakeskin maples in late summer (August); Birch: Early-mid summer, if at all; Hornbeam: From late summer to mid-winter; Laburnum: From late summer until January; Magnolia: Deciduous, springflowering varieties are cut back in early-mid summer; Grape vine: After leaf-fall but before Christmas.…

True grit: Adding extra grit to the soil around alpines lifts their lower foliage off wet soil and lets water run off instead of collecting. My alpine trough and rockery have flourished this year, with plants putting on good growth and flowering for a considerable length of time. Although alpines are tough little plants built to survive inhospitable altitudes and conditions, they find our cold, wet winters something of a trial. Many of them are low growing so are easily smothered by fallen leaves and by the weeds that continue to grow whenever the weather is warm enough. They also hate sitting in soggy soil. I have protected my trough from the worst of winter’s elements by moving it underneath a wooden bench in a sheltered area of the patio.…

1 When using spent veggie compost, remove all plant material, especially potato vegetation that may contain blight spores. 2 If you are sure you have removed all the old plant material, add used compost directly to your beds and fork it in. 3 Cover soil with a layer of fallen leaves. They will break down through winter and worms drag them into the soil, which improves its structure and nutrients. 4 Well-rotted manure is perfect for mulching. Layer it on thickly to protect roots, suppress weeds and condition the soil.…

“Gooseberries are happy with almost any soil” WHAT are the easiest, most valuable and easily stored crops in the garden? I reckon it has to be the soft fruit grown on bushes – the currants and berries. Made into jams or frozen they’ll keep almost indefinitely. Blackcurrants will grow and crop almost anywhere. Any piece roots so buy a choice new variety or three, take and set a few more cuttings than you need, and then give the pruned original to a friend. Honestly, in three years time this produces better plants. Likewise redcurrants and whitecurrants which are just as keen to root, grow and crop. They can even be trained flat on north- or east-facing walls yet will still produce fruit (though in fairness a little later and less…

1 Only overwinter healthy plants – otherwise you run the risk of overwinter pests and diseases that will re-infect your stock next year. Bushy, stocky plants are also better candidates than leggy ones. First things first, re-pot them into fresh multipurpose compost. 2 Your plants then benefit from being pruned back. This gives the opportunity to remove any weak, ailing growth and also to create a balanced shape. Cut back by one third to one half, removing brown leaves, pods and stems as a priority. Cut just above a bud or leaf. 3 It’s important to keep plants frost-free, so move them into a heated greenhouse, conservatory or well-lit spare room. Reduce watering so that the compost is kept barely moist, and feed with a half-strength liquid feed every 14…

GrowInG food shouldn’t be a chore, and I’m well aware that not every gardener is happy to be out in all weathers, especially during winter. so, while I may be urging you to sow hardy salads, broad beans, green manures and the like, many of you may be faced with large bare patches of earth through these chillier months. You could leave these uncovered – and indeed, it is helpful to let frosts penetrate the soil to kill off overwintering bugs and break down heavy clods. Having said that, I’d much rather encourage you to cover over bare earth in case an unseasonable mild spell allows a rash of weed seedlings to germinate. while unlikely between november and March, a warm second half to october could support weeds. these unwelcome…

1 Dig up the climber carefully, aiming to preserve as much of the fibrous root system as possible. I dug a partial trench around part of the plant and then undercut the rootball to the wall. 2 Lift the climber carefully onto a sheet or even a shopping bag, as I have done. Larger, heavier rootballs will need tilting to one side, so a sheet can be slipped underneath. 3 Use the sheet or bag to move the rootball to its new location. Dig a new planting hole that is bigger than the rootball and replant. Secure individual shoots to bamboo canes directed towards supports.…

1 I started by carefully digging up hellebores, bergenia and Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’, trying to avoid damaging bulbs underground. The plants were pruned, tidied up and temporarily planted into pots. 2 Once the former occupants of the bed were out of the way, I tickled the surface with a fork and used a rake to remove fallen leaves and other debris. The soil was then more thoroughly raked to leave a level finish. 3 The euphorbia needed a large hole. When it was big enough to contain the rootball, I pricked the sides and base with a fork. Once in position, I slowly filled gaps with soil and finished by watering well.…

1 Weed the soil and remove any debris such as stones and twigs. Then rake the sowing area to create a good seedbed and water it. 2 Scatter the seeds thinly in arcs and curves for an attractive, natural look. The seedlings can be thinned when they have grown large enough to handle. 3 Cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil and then gently tamp it down using the back of a rake to hold the seeds in place. 4 Stop birds eating the seeds and cats using the soil as a litter tray by covering the ground with a network of twigs or spraying it with a chemical deterrent.…

Autumn is the ideal time to take hardwood cuttings from your existing camellia plants. Here’s how: 1 Cut stems from this year’s growth and trim to 4-6in/10-15cm, just below a leaf node. Remove lower leaves, then dip base of cutting in hormone rooting powder. 2 Insert cuttings into pots filled with a 50/50 mix of ericaceous compost and sharp sand. Water well and place in a greenhouse, cold frame or propagator until next autumn, when you are ready to plant out or pot on.…

■ ‘Ashmead’s Kernel’. This late dessert variety also stores well. ■ ‘Beauty of Bath’. A sweet, early eating dessert variety. ■ ‘Grenadier’. My friend’s favourite cooker. Ripens early-mid season. ■ ‘King of the Pippins’ Of French origin, ripening in late autumn. ■ Of pears, our ‘Doyenne du Comice’ is often badly scab-affected. But ‘Buerre Hardy’ or ‘Concorde’ (right) are much better.…

Worth over £285 WIN MAKE light work of clearing up leaves this Autumn with the new Gtech cordless Leaf Blower. Leaf raking can be a time-consuming chore in the garden; a leaf blower not only takes some of the repetitive strain out of this back breaking task, but it will speed up the process too. Ergonomically designed, the new Gtech Leaf Blower is perfectly balanced to afford great control, making it comfortable to operate throughout its 20-minute run-time. Great specification The new Gtech Leaf Blower is the most powerful in the cordless market using a state-of-the-art lithium-ion 36v battery (interchangeable with the Gtech Lawn Mower) and provides a powerful airflow of 38 metres per second for high performance gardening. Ideal for clearing drives, pathways and gardens, its broad nozzle (70mm…

Next week: Aerators to help your lawn breath and thrive Indoor hanging pots £7.99-£9.99 each + £4.95 p&p 0114 233 8262 Burgonandball.com Stylish pot designs will give house plant displays a contemporary feel. Burgon and Balls’s new collection come a choice of colours, finishes and sizes. To make life easier the pots are sized to accommodate the most popular house plants. With a strong leather hanging cord, the range is made of waterproof stoneware, available from garden centres or direct. Black pyramid hanging terrarium £15 + free delivery 0800 193 5472 Lisaangel.co.uk Hanging pots for succulents come in all shapes and sizes. This classic glass pyramid terrarium is ideal for non-trailing succulents, such as haworthia or crassula species. To plant up, first water the plant, add a layer of builders…

Worth £2 7 .96 THIS cheery selection of dwarf narcissus is bound to put a big smile on your face next spring. The exciting collection of miniature daffoldils brings together four well known varieties, for a range of colours and flower forms that will brighten up borders, rockeries and patio containers. Height: up to 12in (30cm). Spread: up to: 6in (15cm). Bulb size 8/10. Collection comprises the following bulb varieties: ■ Narcissus ‘Martinette’ x 15 ■ Narcissus ‘Niveth’ x 15 ■ Narcissus ‘Golden Dawn’ x 10 ■ Narcissus ‘Tête-a-Tête’ x 20 *just pay £5.65 postage Other special offers: Long lasting blooms OFFER 1 Tulip ‘Red Impression’ Spectacularly large and long-lasting blooms on tall, sturdy stems make this tulip a border sensation! Easy to grow, with superb weather resistance, they will return reliably year after…

Nurseryman and former Gardeners’ World host “Paler shades are now in fashion” PI-NUS is the way we Brits say the Latin for pine tree. Our continental cousins however, pronounce it ‘pee’ making a lecture I attended on the Large Pinus Forests of Germany especially memorable for all the wrong reasons! Dahlias, are another plant we choose to say incorrectly. Named for the eminent Swedish botanist, Anders Dahl by all rights they should be introduced with air kisses as if saying ‘Dahling’ but most of us say ‘day-lia’ for fear of it sounding a little bit luvvie and theatrical. But whatever you like to call them, dahlias are achingly fashionable. Last year it was the single varieties like the coral ‘Mystic Enchantment’ and ‘Magenta Star’ that caught the gardening cognoscenti’s imagination.…