Thoa Nguyen basically grew up inside Federal Boulevard’s New Saigon: Her parents, Thai Nguyen and Ha Pham, owned and operated the now-iconic restaurant for 35 years, introducing Denverites to traditional Vietnamese fare such as pho, rice-paper-wrapped spring rolls, and grilled-meat-topped bowls before selling the business in 2017. But it was French pastries, from Denver shops such as now-closed André’s Confiserie Suisse and Sweet Soiree, that captivated Nguyen. So, in 2010, when she was 20, she moved to Paris to study how to make the treats, swapping red bean paste for vanilla bean. By the time she returned to Colorado in 2011, her parents had built a bakery and deli adjacent to New Saigon for her as a welcome-home present. There, for seven years, Nguyen crafted the Asian sandwiches and snacks,…
