SANTO
1265 Alpine Ave., Boulder 303-442-6100 santoboulder.com
THE DRAW: The chile and masa nuances of New Mexican cooking in a comfortable urban space with cheerful service
THE DRAWBACK: Menu wanders into international territory at the cost of real focus
DON’T MISS: Sopaipillas, posole, fried tacos, green chile burger, ice creams, barrel-aged cocktails
One sign of a booming restaurant ecosystem is, à la Charles Darwin, specialization. First come the Thai joints; later, Northern Thai; then, the tangy fermented sausages of Isan. First Spanish tapas; then, the small plates of Catalonia, called “pintxos.” We’re seeing more of that sort of culinary evolution on the Front Range recently, and the opening of Santo in Boulder late last year is one example. Taos-born chef Hosea Rosenberg—who, with head butcher Nate Singer, has turned Blackbelly…